I am changing. Turbo kit on my track only Miata to kraken low mount manifold and EFR turbo. I am using this fasteners https://www.stage8.com/ on my current set up. However I've heard people having issues of turbo getting loose on the low mount set up. My mechanic recommended to weld the turbo to the manifold.

Do you guys think its necessary to weld the turbo or stage8 locking hardware is good enough?

 

I can’t tell if you’re serious. Welding shouldn’t be a consideration.

 

That is what the shop did to their track car. They had issues with turbo coming loose.

I am not a big fan of welding the turbo that is why I am asking the question of anyone else that tried using low mount menefold

 

It’s a 100% a consideration, but a rare necessity. It can be done with a good understanding of the two materials, tig welding, and proper preparation. When I’ve done it, it took a ~1/4” bevel ground on all 8 sides, brand new studs and nuts, heat this assembly in an oven, multiple passes with an inconel filler rod, then allowed to cool to room temp extremely slowly to avoid cracking.

this was done using instructions from the manufacturer, who knew material of both turbo and manifold. Without that information, you risk cracks.

 

Do you think it is necessary? Or the lock kit is sufficient for the turbo to stay on?

Also do you guys know what torque should I tighten the turbo if bolted?

 

The stage 8 is known to not be the fix. They don’t vibrate off, the studs stretch. Get inconel studs to go with the locking hardware (vibrating loose is still a possibility)

theyre m8, so 18-25ft/lbs is lots of torque.

 

Would inconel studs stretch at all? I could always drill the retaining clip and safety wire it al it does not come off.

 

In my limited Inconel knowledge, they expand less and more similarly to the metals of the manifold and turbo- Non-inconel studs stretch/expand more; Stage 8 just stops the nuts from loosening. Since you have what sounds like a dedicated track car, your best bet is M8 inconel studs along with stage 8. Very fast track cars that still have issues move up to m10 inconel studs- I don't think there has been any issues talked about with m10 inconel and/or stage 8/safety wire.

 

I stand corrected, but still not something that should be attempted by most.

OP I’m sorry for my tone above. You should try the inconel studs and grade 8 locking hardware as stated above, and also safety wiring the nuts if it comes down to it before welding.

 

I do agree that welding the turbo to the manifold is "hacky" and should be a last resort, though I've seen it done here over the years with success. It does basically make your turbo a throw-away, and makes replacing it pretty tricky later, and I'd recommend avoiding it.

In my experience going to a larger m10 stud helps a lot, though inconel m8's should do the trick.

 

Could m10 studs be installed on the kraken manifold? Does it mean the wholes have to be increased and taped? Also, are the wholes on the turbo large enough for M10?

 

It's an option through kraken, he'll ship it out drilled/tapped for m10 studs (and include studs). You do have to drill the holes on the turbo to match.

 

definitely not, hopefully I made the process sound difficult enough to get the point across that it's not just a simple MIG job. I did it on a Mclaren, it was a 3-4 day process between removing, welding, and reinstalling them.

You can still replace most of the mechanical parts, just not the turbine housing. It's definitely closer to a last resort than the first thing i'd try, that's for sure.

 

Thank you so much for the info. I made sure my Manifold is coming with m10 studs. I will install the turbo, ru. It with couple heat cycles and retoreque it again. Maybe I would not even install the locking hardware so it's easier to tighten.

Hope with the new m10 studs the car could make it through dino tuning sesion.
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I don't see why not, mines seen 20+ track events (time attack), lots of street driving (some daily - over 20k miles) and I've never had an issue with this setup. Kraken with M10 studs, gt2860 re-drilled for m10, no gasket just make sure surfaces are flat and use a dab of high temp grease when you bolt it together.

Good luck!

 

I have a Volvo turbo wagon that I raced in 24 Hours of Lemons. I was constantly breaking/losing studs on the manifold to turbo and turbo to wastegate. What fixed it for me was the M10 stud kit from full-race, they say they are inconel but later say a286. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ Anyways many races later and they are still tight. On the turbo to wastegate m8 314 stainless studs from mcmaster, nordlocks, resbond, and copper crimped nuts solved my problems.

Sold the Volvo after Sonoma last month, now I am stalking here learning about Miatas. I have a caged roller and I am going to ecotec it.

 

My current set up has flying Miata turbo kit, modified to run e85 and 20psi. The turbo never came loose. I've been researching and preparing for this upgrade as I want to make it as reliable as possible. I have a built 1.6 motor which I do not think produces as much exhaust pressure as 1.8 motor.

I will run a lot of Sonoma events next summer, however really trying to focus on getting under 2 minutes at Thunder Hill. I love the current built of my car for both Sonoma and Thunder Hill.

I am curious, what kind of times did you end up running with the Volvo?

 

I used the m10 inconel studs from Full-Race on track at 325whp/20psi on a GTX2867R without failure, as another data point of 1.

Reducing my IAT retard kept me from overheating my turbo and the studs ,too. Retarding timing by a couple of degrees can really drive the EGTs through the roof.

 

Inconel studs, Resbond thread locker into the manifold, titanium flange nuts with safety wire cross drilling.

 

I should mention my wastegate was stainless steel, so the stainless studs matched the expansion of the wastegate.

The Volvo is not fast, but it would usually take the checkered flag both Saturday and Sunday after 6-8 hours of racing. Sonoma with the bus stop after the esses 2:14.9. Buttonwillow 1CW 2:22.8