TD04-13L turbo from a 2004 wrx (freshly rebuilt)
Custom exhaust manifold and custom catted 2.5in turboback exhaust
stainless steel turbo oil feed line
turbo coolant lines
internal oe wrx wastegate actuator w/ custom bracket and arm
ebay type s blow off valve
intercooler w/ custom pipes
adjustable fuel pressure regulator
manual boost controller
apexi afc-s controller
inovate wide band o2 sensor
bipes timing controler
o2 clamp setup
boost gauge
oil temp gauge
silicone vac hoses
harddog roll bar
fm sway bars
blue tokico shocks w/ eibach springs
sparco 5 point harnesses
supra green top 305cc injectors
custom variable TPS sensor
15x6.5 rota 5 spokes w/ kumho ecsta a/s 205 50 15
removed A/C

Definitely needs to be adjusted a bit more but running 10psi nicely. Any comments/suggestions are appreciated. Somehow the clutch hasnt started slipping amazingly.

 

welcome to the board, and nice setup. this is exactly what Im planning to do to my nb as soon as all the parts are acquired. Any idea on what kind of power you are putting down? Im very interested in any info you could tell me about this setup, like how hard was it to rotate that turbo, make it fit, did you reweld all the flanges urself, etc.

 

Is your VC vent blocked off?

 

Good build, mine is similar except I don't have the flashy hoses. You need a serious ECU to unlock the true potential of this turbo. I just got EBC working on mine today and the car is crazy fast at 8 psi. Its completely mental; like STi fast. Until the clutch started slipping and I lost to a Grand Am.


http://img295.imageshack.us/img295/2037/dsc00480bx2.jpg

http://img210.imageshack.us/img210/6410/dsc00484xp9.jpg

http://img70.imageshack.us/img70/9068/dsc00481dr5.jpg

 

Very nice setup, but loose the bandaids and get proper management. MS is a popular choice around here and theres always plenty of support from other users. It will be the cheapest performance you will ever buy. Keep up the good work

 

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looks it. I suggest unblocking it....

also curious as to why the remote FPR?

and i really hope you didn't remove your cooling fan....

interesting approach to running your heater core outlet through the turbo......not sure I would do that myself.

 

I didnt know there was a FPR w/ a male end on it like the OE regulator has so I went this route. Whats more common?

I removed the A/C fan and relocated the coolant fan to the other side for more room.

Whats the more common way to run coolant to a turbo?

I'll definitely be getting a MS soon but figured I should start with bandaids first as they appear easier to setup with minimal knowledge.


Not sure what the VC is.

I havent gotten it dyno'd yet so no idea on the power. The turbo rotates when you remove the largest snap ring inside it. Fairly easy to do. The exhaust welds were the hardest part but not so bad if you do it step by step.

 

looks good. I have the same td04-13L. Picked it up hoping it would work with my greddy manifold but the flange is completely different 3 bolt triangular shape.. How did you do away with the flange? Very interested.. Thanks- Bryan

 

VC= valve cover. The vent next to your oil fill cap is blocked off. If your PCV valve goes bad, you will be boosting into your crank case and your car will smoke A LOT. There are other negatives that i am sure braineack will tell you about.

 

a vortech or BEGi FMU while utilizing the oem FPR for off boost fueling. We idle at 38psi and see 48-50psi at atmospheric, then boost activates the FMU to increase the fuel pressure.

gotcha.

Through the small line from the inlet to the thermostat housing. I assume your heater doesn't work as well now as you have probably restricted the flow a bit.





valve cover; unblock the breather!

 

The tube protruding from your valve cover, just aft and below your oil filler, is called the VC breather and, in your case, it appears to be blocked off. If you don't remove this obstruction, your engine will do it for you and that's no goodz. Go through the "girly catch can" thread for more info. Good stuff in that one...

 

dyou have an afr map which i can probably take a look at?thanks

 

you should have saved all the money you threw away on blue hose and bought ms.

 

Update : Boost gauge was busted so I replaced it and I am actually running 7psi. Appears thats what the stock fuel pump is maxed at? I can't find any guides on installing the fuel pump (Yes i searched ) is it accessible from the top or does the fuel tank have to be removed?

Added a cold air intake setup that routes in front of the intercooler (rather than behind radiator ) and a RX7 MAF Sensor. Definitely increased throttle response but now I idle around 6-700 from 900-1000rpm, feels like I may stall at times.

 

Isnt the fuel pump hidden underneath the car on the passenger side by a piece of plastic?

 

i have the same problem with my rx7 maf

 

Thats the filter...pump is under the rear deck accessible by pulling back the shelf carpet.

 

if you can get a hold of one try the pierburg fuel pump. runs inline with the stock pump, no pulling the OE one . Most put it by the filter which you should be changing anyway.

And please, please get rid of the safc.

I've been thinking of offering paypal to people with horrible mods, just to make the world a better place - like $5 if you remove that double decker CF spoiler, that sort of thing. just an example.

nice to see more turbo miatas around nova. This has to be the worldwide hqs of turbo miatas. I'm still a month or two from completing my first stage, cuz I am doing a lot more than just installing the turbo.

 

new pics :

Megasquirt, upgraded injectors (I had 305cc green supra injectors but 1 of them locked up), ACT 1.8 Clutch(233tq), and Godspeed Radiator coming next week.

Car as of 4/24/09



Custom Oil cooler that I still need to build a air box for... passenger side turn signal intake is diverting air to it.



Relocated Oil filter and Evap Canister

 

Did you retain the stock oil cooler under the original position of the oil filter?