Replacing rear wheel studs, is it tough?
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 29,085
Total Cats: 375
From: Republic of Dallas
I know the front can be hammered out, then tightened into place with a steel lug nut. What about the rears on my 1.6 chassis car? I need more length to clear my spacers on my street wheels.
If it's anything like the front, it's easy. I had to replace one after I damaged it removing the damned OEM locking lugnuts. The only semi-difficult part of the process was getting the stud started into the hole (hey-o) since you are working behind the shield.
I didn't want to use the cone end of the lugnut to pull the stud in, so I stuck a couple big washers over the end of the stud, then flipped the lugnut around so that the flat end (normally facing out) of the lugnut would contact the top washer.
I didn't want to use the cone end of the lugnut to pull the stud in, so I stuck a couple big washers over the end of the stud, then flipped the lugnut around so that the flat end (normally facing out) of the lugnut would contact the top washer.
It's not just like the front, the studs interfere with the hub. If you notch the studs you can pull them through but you can't get the old ones out without removing (read: replacing) the rear wheel bearing.
Huh, do you know if the rear hubs changed at all over the years? i remember knocking one out with a sledge in my torsen swap.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 29,085
Total Cats: 375
From: Republic of Dallas
Maybe I'll take this opportunity to re-pack my rears at 180,000 miles.
We magicly found that position and never could really found it agian when we were working on a friends car. We wasted so much time trying to find it again that we just pulled the entire hub out of frustration.
Now that I think of it I should have an old hub and upright assembly all together someplace. I will experiment with that if I can find it.
mmmm uprights........
mmmm uprights........







