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Old 04-08-2011, 12:18 AM   #21
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I know on most cars if it's a tight fit getting them in, you can grind down one side of the back of the stud to sneak it in.
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Old 04-11-2011, 03:24 PM   #22
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Found the old hub still connected to the upright. It will work. You have to flatten the sheetmetal dust shield right where it has a flange between the brake caliper mounts. Once you do this you can get the stud out at that spot.

Side note - I dont see how the CV housing would get in the way but it might factor in. Mine was a loose hub/upright so I could not confirm with that still attached.
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Old 06-06-2012, 01:14 AM   #23
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I know this is an old thread but in case anyone needs a visual, just did this on my 95. Flattened the part of brake dust shield with a hammer, and there was plenty of room for it to come out. The shield can be bent back with pliers.



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Old 06-06-2012, 07:10 PM   #24
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The new ARP long studs come pre-notched and they can be installed without replacing the bearing. I didn't think this was possible, but I changed a set on Crusher a few events ago and was surprised to see that it was possible.
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Old 06-15-2012, 09:05 AM   #25
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If you guys are doing it this way, then why does 949 say this? General disclaimer?

Quote:
WARNING: Wheel studs, whether OEM or aftermarket, must be pressed in.

DO NOT hammer from backside or pull through with a nut on the other side
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Old 06-15-2012, 10:07 AM   #26
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Hammering can bend them. Pulling through with nut can stretch them. That said, I've hammered them in, and pulled them tight with a nut. Never had a problem.

Just take it slow and easy, and it is fine. Do it by hand, no impact wrenches.
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Old 06-15-2012, 10:09 AM   #27
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Old 06-15-2012, 01:26 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rleete View Post
Hammering can bend them. Pulling through with nut can stretch them. That said, I've hammered them in, and pulled them tight with a nut. Never had a problem.

Just take it slow and easy, and it is fine. Do it by hand, no impact wrenches.
I swapped one for a stock-style replacement earlier this year (need to get the ARPs, but that's for another day), pulling it in with a nut. It took noticably less effort than one applies when torquing the lugnuts, so if that's all it takes to stretch one then I don't understand how they survive normal use.

--Ian
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Old 06-15-2012, 01:33 PM   #29
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I think it's just a standard disclaimer. You know some idiot is going to mess one up and try to sue, so they put that there.
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Old 06-26-2013, 12:45 PM   #30
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bump
just did this on a 1.6 rear and found the sweet spot...
there are pics posted in this thread which already contain the right spot. didn't see those pics until just now...
dust shield def has to be bent out of place...
the knuckle MAY or MAY NOT need a tiny little notch cut out. but yeah, i was able to get the old ones out and the new ones in without removing the hub.
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