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loud knocking at idle and while revving

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Old Apr 11, 2012 | 01:52 AM
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Default loud knocking at idle and while revving

My friend's 95 started knocking under load and now knocks all the time. Head and valve train look ok. An inspection camera didn't find anything in the combustion chamber. Compression is 200/180/150/150. Is this a bottom end problem like a bent rod or spun rod bearing?

Engine is stock, no turbo, but it has 200k miles and unknown history from previous owners.

Old Apr 11, 2012 | 02:20 AM
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Bearing. It's done.
Old Apr 11, 2012 | 02:22 AM
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yup. time to yank that sucker
Old Apr 11, 2012 | 06:54 AM
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www.car-part.com

Or rebuild it and force feed it.
Old Apr 11, 2012 | 08:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Savington
Bearing. It's done.

just use 75w-90 oil.
Old Apr 11, 2012 | 09:48 AM
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Ok, that's what we thought. New engine is already being sourced. My ls1 which had 1 spun bearing with only small amount of wear didn't sound nearly this bad, but would barely idle when it was pulled. This thing drove 50+ miles and still idles/revs all while clanking.
Old Apr 11, 2012 | 10:38 AM
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We do have a 70k mile vvt longblock for sale just fyi
Old Apr 11, 2012 | 11:34 AM
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Originally Posted by orion4096
Ok, that's what we thought. New engine is already being sourced. My ls1 which had 1 spun bearing with only small amount of wear didn't sound nearly this bad, but would barely idle when it was pulled. This thing drove 50+ miles and still idles/revs all while clanking.
Miata engines are some of the loudest, most baffling, and yet toughest engines I've ever seen.

I've seen a 1.6 lose most of it's coolant (Radiator neck leak), get ran for ~80 miles, leak fixed and filled back up...and it was fine.
Old Apr 11, 2012 | 12:34 PM
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Just keep running it, see how long it lasts. Not on a track though. You'll ruin the day if you oil down the track.
Old Apr 11, 2012 | 02:17 PM
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He was driving up to the corkscrew at Laguna when it happened so it's already seen some track time while knocking... While it might be fun to blow it up and possibly add a hole to side of the block I'd rather just swap it out now and open it up.
Old Apr 11, 2012 | 02:28 PM
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Rebuild it for a shelf spare. Ebay rebuild kits are cheep, if you wanna cost effective diy project.
Old Apr 21, 2012 | 09:07 PM
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We pulled the motor today. Drained the oil... all 0.5 quart that was left. Spent most of the day swapping parts and redoing all the belts and seals on the new motor. If anyone has an extra carfax I'd appreciate if you can lookup the new motor in exchange for some $$$: JM1NA3536S0610298
Old Apr 21, 2012 | 11:32 PM
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Give this a shot:
Attached Files
File Type: zip
JM1NA3536S0610298.zip (972.7 KB, 92 views)
Old Apr 22, 2012 | 12:30 AM
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yeah, cause clicking a .ZIP file from a member with two posts is totally a good idea.
Old Apr 22, 2012 | 12:36 AM
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Originally Posted by falcon
yeah, cause clicking a .ZIP file from a member with two posts is totally a good idea.
afaik .zip files are pretty innocuous (maybe I'm wrong)? I figured the .xps format wasn't supported by the forum upload software.
Old Apr 22, 2012 | 12:41 AM
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@orion4096
Can't PM yet, so I'll reply here:
No worries, I had the Carfax left over from car shopping last weekend. Don't worry about paying, it was going to go to waste anyways.
Old Apr 25, 2012 | 11:02 PM
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Swapped the motor last weekend and it looks to be running good. Haven't had a chance to pull apart the old one, but we did cut open the filter. I think there's more than 4 bearings worth of metal in it:

53c14c94.jpg?t=1335407869
Old Apr 25, 2012 | 11:27 PM
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Originally Posted by orion4096
Swapped the motor last weekend and it looks to be running good. Haven't had a chance to pull apart the old one, but we did cut open the filter. I think there's more than 4 bearings worth of metal in it:]
Horrible... you should collect up what you can with a magnet & weigh it.
Old May 3, 2012 | 01:29 AM
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What's left of the #4 rod bearing next to another half that looked fine. Nothing else was obviously broken from a quick inspection.

c4a60e15.jpg?t=1336022718
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