I'm trying to get rid of my AFM, i was going to order this map sensor from eBay http://www.ebay.com/itm/GREDDY-MAP-P...r#ht_500wt_922 I was just wondering if it's the right one and how do I connect it up when I've the AFM gone, I've tried searching and cant find much info about connecting them up, I've a GReddy emanage blue ecu, GReddy profec b boost controller, FMIC, GReddy manifold, T25 turbo

 

If you have the GReddy Emanage blue then you'll need to keep your AFM.

The MAP sensor you linked to looks like it'll be fine to use with the emanage, but you can use most 2 or 3bar MAP sensors, I'm using a 2bar weber MAP sensor on mine, sensors from Escort cossies are usually quite popular as well.

I don't think you fully understand what it is you're doing with the emanage, I suggest you read and research a lot more before going any further. There's plenty of info on miataturbo if you "search", Google, or a well known mx5nutz forum in the UK (I think I recognise your username from the UK forums?).

 

Ok thanks, ya I don't really know too much about it to be honest, I know I should have went with a megasquirt or link from the start though but I just rushed into getting the emanage cause it came up at a good price at the time plus I thought it would easier to get going with it (more plug and play). I dont have the money to get anything else now and I'm just going to give it to a garage with rolling road etc to finish it and map it properly, it's been off the road for over a year now cause the last garage I gave it to never finished it I know ye will say I should have done it myself but I didn't have much time with work plus the garage I gave it to builds a lot of track/race winning cars so I thought it was in good hands, boy was I wrong!

 

http://miatajoe.50megs.com/

 

on Joe's MAF delete text on the 1st line there is a link ...


"First, fellow MiataTurbo.net user musanovic has finally stepped up documented a similar procedure to mine for the later, MAF-equipped cars. If this sounds like you, head on over to http://www.rpaperformance.com/miatamaf.html and check it out."

I can not get the link to come up. My goal is to read up on a 1.8 delete. Any suggestions?

 

buy a real ECU.

 

Post #6 FTW
/thread

 

ouch!

by real ECU do you mean not virtual, the real deal, oem, oem like, AEM, MSDIY, Hydra, really really real, not an EMU....?

be gentle

 

I just mean not a "signal modifier" that cant acutally control the car with the stock ECU in place to actually do the work.

 

...I get this.

I'm just starting out on this endeavor and want to learn the ropes slowly. For now I have an na car that I want to remove the maf from for a little power bump plus be able to pass emissions. I've acquired an EMU on the cheap so I'm just trolling for a little help.

I assume you are referring to this-

Full ECU:

1- Megasquirt (Do-It-Yourself)
Compatability: universal
Manufacturer: DIYAutoTune.com Megasquirt Kits / Assembled Engine Management Systems, Wideband o2 Sensor Systems and tuning products
Price: $150 - $250, depending on CPU.
Additional parts: Air temp sensor, wiring, various "mod-kits", averaging $50-$75. Wideband O2 sensor / gauge, avg $250 (AEM). Injectors, averaging $50 - $200, depending on how good a scavenger you are.
Opinion: This is as DIY as it gets. In addition to physically assembling the unit (with a soldering iron) you will be required to perform various hardware "modifications", flash software onto the CPU, figure out a fair amount of wiring, and generate your fuel and ignition tables from scratch. That said, I personally use a Megasquirt-I.
Pros: Cheap. Versatile. Excellent forum-based support.
Cons: Very high initial learning curve, little to no manufacturer support. Not currently compatible with NB alternators, some creativity required to support A/C.

2- Megasquirt (Plug-n-Play)
Compatibility: 90-97, possible NB support in the future
Manufacturer: MegaSquirtPNP by DIYAutoTune.com (also Bell Engineering)
Price: $700 - $725
Additional parts: Air temp sensor: $30. Wideband O2 sensor / gauge, avg $250 (AEM). Injectors, averaging $50 - $200, depending on how good a scavenger you are.
Opinion: 99% of the capability of the true DIY unit, in a fully assembled, plug-n-play package. The software is mostly done for you, though dyno tuning is recommended for abnormally aspirated cars.
Pros: The least expensive plug-n-play system on the market, good vendor support.
Cons:

3- Hydra Nemesis
Compatibility: '90 - '05
Vendor: Flyin' Miata : :
Price: $1,900 - $2,000
Additional parts: Injectors, see above, or buy new from FM for $415.
Opinion: Appears to be a very capable ECU with a proven track record.
Pros: It's supported by FM. Comes complete and ready to plug-n-play, including WBO2 sensor.
Cons: none.
.............................
This is great stuff just not for me right now.

 

Best bet would be talking to Joe Perez who authored the link I gave. Most of us have moved on from EMB (which was very few from the start), I think maybe one or two of us have tried EMU. I can only think of one member that runs EMB and that's olderguy, otherwise about 75% of the site owns a MS.

 

Thanks-
When the link is opened Joe's excellent 1.6 tutorial comes up. In the 1st line of Joe's text there is a link to a 1.8 delete. The 1.8 link is gone.

BTW, I have found lots of help in my searches here but it would be great to have a dedicated write up on the 1.8.

 

I still have one of those blue boxes in my glove compartment.

My car runs well with it, it's all about the tune. I would rather have something better, but it works.

 

Geeez............ you live in the MOTORCITY and drive a Miata .

I'm impressed!

 

flounder is a rough and tumble guy.

 

Tell me about Detroit. - The Garage Journal Board

Tell me about Detroit. - The Garage Journal Board

 

Damn straight!

 

thread revival!

Looking for what joe did with the 1.6l voltage table for the 1.8l. So far the internet has nothing and wish to remove the AFM with the EMU. Before the forum flames the fellow newbie from the UK and says get a Megasquirt, there is no real need.