Does this even make sense?
Does this even make sense?
I'm due for an engine build because my current one has been through hell and back, burns oil, bad compression, etc. I found something for a good deal, but this is what the seller is telling me...
Then I asked him if he could give me compression numbers for each cylinder. This was his response.
So, wtf is going on here? Say I could get this for a great deal, is it worth it/easily fixable? I just wanted something that I could swap over and I guess I could swap a new timing belt on, but this seems like I need to weld something onto the crankshaft or something. I'm having him send me a picture of what's going on. Thoughts on the whole thing?
The engine itself is solid. What happened was the key that holds the crankshaft pulley broke, wobbling out the crankshaft pulley, and roughing up the timing belt cover and belt. Essentially, it needs a new crankshaft pulley, timing belt, and timing belt cover. The engine is strong, looks like when the last timing belt change was done, the crankshaft pulley bolt didn't get tightened enough so it wobbled out and broke the key.
Sorry, I don't have a way to test the compression. I know it runs like a champ (or it will again) once it gets a timing belt back on it. I was driving it when the bolt came loose and the pulley wobbled off. It still fired up no problem, but with the missing pulley it was destroying the timing belt. Mileage is about 135k (I can't check it right now, working) but I can get the actual when I get home. It's not low mileage, but in good shape. There are no oil leaks and it does not burn oil. I park it in my garage and have never had a drop come out. The tranny was replaced and has about 85k, as it had to be swapped out when a shop forgot to put fluid back in after a clutch install. The transmission has an ACT clutch and lightweight flywheel.
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i replaced my pulley boss (where the keyway is) on my engine. i wrote about it here - https://www.miataturbo.net/showthrea...180#post835180
getting compression numbers would be a major plus though.
getting compression numbers would be a major plus though.
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i replaced my pulley boss (where the keyway is) on my engine. i wrote about it here - https://www.miataturbo.net/showthrea...180#post835180
getting compression numbers would be a major plus though.
getting compression numbers would be a major plus though.
Is there any way I can get compression numbers in the current situation? I know how to do the test.
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Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 1,278
Total Cats: 37
From: Brisbane, Australia
Make sure he sends you pics of the keyway on the crankshaft to make sure it isn't chewed out. I have seen some 1800 engines with this problem, requiring a whole new crank & associated costs.
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I would want clear pictures of the keyway on the crank before I even thought about that motor. Replacing the pulleys is easy, repairing a crank that is actually damaged is a pita.
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Thanks guys. Here is what he emailed back.
And here's the money shot. (I'm on my phone, I hope this works)
I've never done a timing belt before, can this be easily fixed?
I have attached a pic of the crankshaft outlet from the front of the motor. You will see that the timing belt is there and needs changing. The little square key has broken off cleanly and needs to be replaced. It should just pull out and you stick another one in. It's not that difficult of a job, but it requires removal of the radiator (which I replaced when the timing belt was changed, so it's pretty new also). If you're swapping engines it shouldn't be an issue.
I've never done a timing belt before, can this be easily fixed?
Last edited by _spyder; Jun 7, 2012 at 07:16 PM.
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Okay *******, which is it? My 240 buddy tells me it needs a new crank. If its not a hard fix I'd love to pick it up for cheap and learn something.
Edit: that sounded like I was pissed. I luv u all.
Edit: that sounded like I was pissed. I luv u all.
Last edited by _spyder; Jun 7, 2012 at 11:44 AM.
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It needs a new crank. I've swapped cranks before on 1.6 for that very problem. It's not as easy as just swapping engines and refreshing the belts, but it's not hard. Oil pan off, baffle out, oil pump off, main caps out, disconnect rods, reassembly is reverse of removal.
And at that point you might as well tap the connecting rod/piston assemblies out (assuming the head is off) and voila, you have a more or less blank block for a rebuild.
I really wouldn't trust an engine that's ran without a lower pulley on though. Whoever thought it was wise to start it up again after that fell off is dumb enough to do other stupid things.
And at that point you might as well tap the connecting rod/piston assemblies out (assuming the head is off) and voila, you have a more or less blank block for a rebuild.
I really wouldn't trust an engine that's ran without a lower pulley on though. Whoever thought it was wise to start it up again after that fell off is dumb enough to do other stupid things.
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The crank in the pic is good for a door stop.
If you can get that engine on the cheap, and along with the one in your car now you can do a simple stock rebuild and roll on.
How is the crank in the engine you have now?
If you can get that engine on the cheap, and along with the one in your car now you can do a simple stock rebuild and roll on.
How is the crank in the engine you have now?
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