This may be a really stupid question but is it possible to paint the turbine side of a turbo with something like VHT Header Paint or Wrinkle Coat. I've seen some that had it painted black and it looked so, so much better than the rust look mine has lol. Just wanting to see if it will bond/not flake off. If anyone has pictures of the process that would be awesome.

 

you'll have to get it ceramic coated or something. Almost all VHT paints will flake off, they just cant cope with the heat. I have tried and failed.

 

Header and wrinkle = no

Get some VHT 2000 Ceramic and a BBQ grill. Follow the proper application directions and then bake the turbine in the grill at the appropriate temps.

It will last a lot longer than just spraying it and letting it air dry.

 

Why bake it in an oven-substitute when you can just run the car?

 

Gets too hot I'm guessing. Curing is apparently reserved for BBQ precision heating only.

I cured my manifold with BBQ paint by running the car, complete opposite of what I'm being told here.

 

There is no such thing as a "BBQ GRILL". You god damned northerenrs are ruining America with your socialist meat preparation.

 

Curing is important for the VHT ceramic and needs to be done at the appropriate temperature. We aren't cave men here.

BBQ paint =/= ceramic. I had BBQ paint on my sr20 turbine and downpipe. Didn't last long on the turbo, but the downpipe is still okay.

VHT ceramic is boss **** when done right.

I'm more south than you, retard.

Nice supercharger, faggette.

 

Ban for queerdom.

 

I have done two turbine housings with "VHT Flameproof" and it has held up well. It gets to be more of a dark gray than black after a while, but it's miles ahead of "rust."

I cured the first one on the car like it says in the directions (idle for 30 min, off for 30, idle for 30 more or something, cool, then drive, then cool, if I remember right) and it held up alright. I only had it that way for a couple years, but it seemed to work alright.

The second one I did in my kitchen. My oven doesn't go quite high enough for the last step, so I just put it on max and hoped for the best, then put it on the car. That was this winter and it seems to be holding up fine. No track time, but some autocross.

 

What about the compressor side. How could u go about cleaning it up a little can i tape up all the Ports and go over it lightly with a wire wheel, or is that a bad idea? Sorry I'm being such a newb. :\

 

I tried the vht stuff, flaked off in about a month. I then got my housing ceramic coated for $40, and it's holding up great so far.

 

Found a local place to do some ceramic coating, but they've got a minimum $250 order and I'd hope my manifold, trubine housing, and downpipe don't meet that minimum..... Said he'd call when they've got an order for that product and toss mine in to be coated, never heard back from them.

Heard of a company called Cerakote through a friend who uses their air cure product to rice out his handguns, digging around on their website I found they have an oven bake cured coating for engine pistons..

Cerakote Coatings: V-136Q Piston Coat (Oven Cure)

Typical uses: piston tops, combustion chambers, valve tops, external turbo housings and exhaust components.


***** SUPER expensive at $70.00 a pint, though. I think 16 ounces would probably cover a turbine, manifold, wastegate and most of a downpipe..

 

You homos need to stop painting aluminum with non-etching paint. All 'professionally' painted aluminum parts are prepped thoroughly and primed with self-etching primer. If your paint doesn't contain an etching agent, your **** won't stick.

to quote a vendor:

"Aluminum is one of the most popular architectural substrates because of its excellent corrosion resistance, yet it is one of the most difficult substrates to paint successfully. A naturally formed, invisible and microscopically thin aluminum oxide covers the surface and renders the bulk metal relatively inert to atmospheric corrosion but because of its inertness paints and coatings tend not to stick well. The trick to achieving good adhesion is to remove the oxide and immediately apply a passivation layer to prevent the oxide from forming again. This is easier said than done."

-zach

 

^ Very true. Luckily it takes it a bit to actually self anno itself like that so you can get away with sanding all the oxide layer off and painting it within the next couple hours. I still prefer the self etching stuff. But what does that have to do with painting cast iron or cast stainless turbine housings (besides the fact that stainless does the same thing as aluminum).