How to do a proper 1.8 budget build
#1
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How to do a proper 1.8 budget build
So back in October 2013 I found a 97 with a blown head gasket for cheap. I had no clue what I planned to do with the car when I bought it, but at that price and ease of repair I figured I might as well pick it up. There are a few other things wrong with the car such as speedo not working (came unplugged at the dash), bad paint, driver side window stuck half way down, needed a battery and tires.
Sometime in the spring as I was slowly getting it back together I decided it would be a decent car for a proper budget build. It would also be the test mule for my new MKTurbo setup. The plan is to cut corners where I could, but use parts that will be reliable. I am shooting for about $2500-3000 total cost to get it all up and running and making 200-225whp.
The list of items I need to turbo the car and how much they cost me.
$1250 - MKTurbo setup - T3 log manifold, T3 ChinaCharger, 2.5" to 3" downpipe, and 3" exhaust.
$650 - MS3X - I already had this form my 94, just needed to make a PNP harness for the 97.
$170 - Wideband o2 - Ordered an AEM UEGO from amazon.
$400 - clutch - I am using an ACT HDSS that I got from Braineack for cheap.
$100 - Oil feed and drain lines and fittings.
$60 - Intercooler, I already had leftover aluminum piping that I will reuse.
$200 - EV14 Injectors - I am using the Mustang injectors that are rated at 630cc. I also bought the ID spacers to fit the stock fuel rail, and then harness converters to go from EV1 to EV6/14 plugs.
$57 - 50mm Ebay BOV, this is a Tial knock off.
$xx - Couplers and T-bolt clamps. I already had a ton of these laying around spare so will just reuse what I have.
The car in it's stock glory. Hardtop did not come with the car, I just put that on since it currently needs a rain rail and the soft top is off.
Some used Michelins that I picked up and had mounted on some stock rim.
Intercooler pipes and the dead battery that came with the car.
Intercooler, BOV, Inectors
MS3X and Wideband
T3 ChinaCharger
MKTurbo.com setup
The current plan is to get the MS3X installed in the next few days and get a decent tune I can drive on. After that I will install the new injectors and retune. Then the turbo setup will go on. Possibly start on that install this coming weekend, or sometime next week.
Sometime in the spring as I was slowly getting it back together I decided it would be a decent car for a proper budget build. It would also be the test mule for my new MKTurbo setup. The plan is to cut corners where I could, but use parts that will be reliable. I am shooting for about $2500-3000 total cost to get it all up and running and making 200-225whp.
The list of items I need to turbo the car and how much they cost me.
$1250 - MKTurbo setup - T3 log manifold, T3 ChinaCharger, 2.5" to 3" downpipe, and 3" exhaust.
$650 - MS3X - I already had this form my 94, just needed to make a PNP harness for the 97.
$170 - Wideband o2 - Ordered an AEM UEGO from amazon.
$400 - clutch - I am using an ACT HDSS that I got from Braineack for cheap.
$100 - Oil feed and drain lines and fittings.
$60 - Intercooler, I already had leftover aluminum piping that I will reuse.
$200 - EV14 Injectors - I am using the Mustang injectors that are rated at 630cc. I also bought the ID spacers to fit the stock fuel rail, and then harness converters to go from EV1 to EV6/14 plugs.
$57 - 50mm Ebay BOV, this is a Tial knock off.
$xx - Couplers and T-bolt clamps. I already had a ton of these laying around spare so will just reuse what I have.
The car in it's stock glory. Hardtop did not come with the car, I just put that on since it currently needs a rain rail and the soft top is off.
Some used Michelins that I picked up and had mounted on some stock rim.
Intercooler pipes and the dead battery that came with the car.
Intercooler, BOV, Inectors
MS3X and Wideband
T3 ChinaCharger
MKTurbo.com setup
The current plan is to get the MS3X installed in the next few days and get a decent tune I can drive on. After that I will install the new injectors and retune. Then the turbo setup will go on. Possibly start on that install this coming weekend, or sometime next week.
Last edited by shuiend; 02-09-2017 at 06:11 PM.
#6
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Last night I wired up my old LC-1 and the MS3x. Today I got a chance to calibrate the LC-1 and realized it was broken. So After 7 years of buying Innovative widebands I am going to with the AEM UEGO a try. Ordered it off Amazon for $170 and it will be here tomorrow. Car started right up with the MS3x when I tried. Idle is was off and keeps bouncing around. Once I get the AEM installed tomorrow and can actually see my AFR's I will work on tuning.
#8
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I had trouble with my LC-1 too. Ordered the AEM and never looked back since. No calibration process is very nice. It's a much simpler and more plug and play product than the LC-1
Any pics of the manifold and DP you will selling? I might be in the market for a 1.8 setup in the future.
Any pics of the manifold and DP you will selling? I might be in the market for a 1.8 setup in the future.
You can see pictures of what I will be making in the first post. There are more in the DIY Manifold thread in the fabrication section. Website with much more info should be launching soon.
#9
To be fair to the LC-1 it is 4-5 years old and has sat in a box in my garages for most of that time. When shopping today it was between the AEM or MXT-L. AEM just happened to be the one Amazon could get to me by tomorrow.
You can see pictures of what I will be making in the first post. There are more in the DIY Manifold thread in the fabrication section. Website with much more info should be launching soon.
You can see pictures of what I will be making in the first post. There are more in the DIY Manifold thread in the fabrication section. Website with much more info should be launching soon.
#11
To be fair to the LC-1 it is 4-5 years old and has sat in a box in my garages for most of that time. When shopping today it was between the AEM or MXT-L. AEM just happened to be the one Amazon could get to me by tomorrow.
You can see pictures of what I will be making in the first post. There are more in the DIY Manifold thread in the fabrication section. Website with much more info should be launching soon.
You can see pictures of what I will be making in the first post. There are more in the DIY Manifold thread in the fabrication section. Website with much more info should be launching soon.
Anyway, I picked up a UEGO and haven't looked back yet. The thing was TOO easy to wire up and has been dead reliable. Set it and forget it kind of thing.
#12
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UEGO was installed last night. Hooked up the white wire to my MS3x and could not get it working correctly. I tried to calibrate the AFR with both AEM options in the calibration list and also with the custom linear option. None of them worked correctly. Braineack thinks he might have told me to use the wrong wire to go to the MS so I will be switching that and trying it out again tomorrow.
Last edited by shuiend; 11-14-2014 at 08:13 AM.
#17
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I tried the 0v and 4.99v that were in the table in the instructions and those did not work. So I am just hoping it is the wrong wire to the MS. I will give the values you guys posted a try tomorrow and see what it does.
#18
when you say "didn't work" do you mean just doesn't match up? or like doesn't work at all?
BTW: I accidentally connected the serial output from the AEM when I 1st hooked mine up, it was late and I was tired, and the MS was showing all sorts of really funky values, so make sure you didn't do something stupid like that
BTW: I accidentally connected the serial output from the AEM when I 1st hooked mine up, it was late and I was tired, and the MS was showing all sorts of really funky values, so make sure you didn't do something stupid like that
#19
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It does not work in TS as it seems to get no value and does not move at all. That makes me think I have the wrong wire hooked up going to the MS. Scott built my harness and had 4 unlabeled wires coming off of it for me to hook things to, power, ground, O2, and EBC. I think I may have hooked the white wire from the UEGO to the EBC wire instead of O2 wire.