Hey every one so its been a few months since I started my engine build in school. decided it's time I FINALY put up a thread for the build feel free to leave any comments or opinions it's much apriciated as this will be met first major build I'm sure I'll be putting up questions. Just to give you a little info on the build its a 1.8 94-97 block and head running forged internals and once broken in will being working on turbo charging it.


I'll start with some pics from when I got it back in February and run you through progress so far





Bottom veiw





Dirty AF








Initial removal and tagging

 

Everything disassembled





Dang these were dirty





Took like an hour to do them all fingers left in permenant claw position





Damn burnt valve

 

Wiseco 8.8 84mm bore forged Pistons





My beautiful bore is complete and engine clean





Rods and Pistons assembled

 

Primer/ painted the inside of the block after removing all the bad casting material at recomemdation from my teacher who is an NHRA dragster for improved oil flow back





Primer applied time for paint





Omg I'm in love ����








Now ready for assembly

 

 

Nice pics.

 

Thank u

 

Looks like a great build so far. One note of concern from my point of view would be the paint on the inside of the block. I would be concerned that over time the paint may degrade and flake off causing debris to clog the oil pickup.

 

Wow this is looking good so far! Keep on keeping on man

 

The inner coat of paint was suggested to me by my teacher I had the same concerns my self but my teacher has been doing NHRA top fuel cars and building engines for 40 years so when he told me to do it I asked him y and he said it helps improve oil drain back flow and said he hadn't ever had any deterioration with time and he was pretty insistent about it so I figured I'd go for it I mean if 8000 hp engines can use it with no problem but idk I'll keep it posted over time if you want I'm curious too

 

Depends on the type of paint used. I think Glyptal will not come off.
This is an interesting watch:


I think it is not worth the effort on a Miata engine, but why not while you are at it anyway?

 

8,000 hp engines get rebuilt every 45,000 rpm. Yep. 10,000 rpm engine runs about 4.5 minutes, give or take. Fire, set idle, brunout, stage, race. Dead. Tear down.

 

Lmfao �� That sounds about right if not sooner hahaha ....but they don't repaint it every time basically I just had to make sure I cleaned the surface very thoroughly with brake cleaner so there was zero oil on it when it was painted

 

What's everyone think of color combo

Fm throttle bracket thanks Keith and all the good guys in Colorado

 

That's a lot of paint. Show us a picture after you've finished installing it.


...before all the touchup and oil smudges

 

Ya that picture probably won't look nearly as good lol but I will for sure should be goin in about 2-3 weeks it should be running hopefully
hey I have a question for everyone though in regards to ignition timing my engine didn't come with a cam angle sensor and came disassembled so I was not able to put any marks on CAS now my only worry is that to adjust timing the engine is supposed to be running but how can I start it if it's not timed.....or is that just like a fine tune adjustment and and putting the CAS in the correct way gets you close enough to start the engine

 

Throw the CAS in and try starting, then adjust it till it does start. Once you get it running either set timing correctly in MS, or using the diagnostics box.

 

So, the timing is something I too am curious about. I have had a hard time finding any definitive way the timing process, installing timing belt, then getting the motor to start, then doing the actual timing after that. I will not be running the CAS so that is not really an option for me. If someone could link some info that would be great, I am sure its out there, but as I mentioned, I haven't had much luck finding it.

BTW OP, everything looks beautiful thus far, keep up the good work

 

Chris, you're using NB sensors. Pat yourself on the back, you don't physically adjust the CAS. Just worry about ignition timing in your ECU and throw it to 10° BTDC to check base timing. The End.

 

: pats self on back:

Kthnxbai