Suspension, Brakes, Drivetrain discuss the wondrous effects of boost and your miata...
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by:

ELBJ Alignment on Stock Suspension [NB]

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 12-27-2016, 05:51 PM
  #1  
Junior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
 
MetalMuffins's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Halifax, NS
Posts: 251
Total Cats: 34
Default ELBJ Alignment on Stock Suspension [NB]

I've done some searching but can't seem to find a definitive answer. I've got a 2000 on stock suspension for the time being. I needed to replace my LBJ's so I got the ELBJ's. Just got back from getting an alignment, and I'm not sure what my max camber should be at stock ride hight.

As the car sits, it's 14.25" in the front, and 13.75" rear hub to fender. I was told that all I could get on the front was about -0.85 camber to keep the caster at 5 deg. I was expecting to have a hard time keeping it less then -1.

​​​​​​​Does dropping the ride hight effect camber that much, or is there something else going on that might be limiting my camber?
MetalMuffins is offline  
Old 12-27-2016, 06:04 PM
  #2  
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
 
dleavitt's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Salem, OR
Posts: 757
Total Cats: 223
Default

Originally Posted by MetalMuffins
I've done some searching but can't seem to find a definitive answer. I've got a 2000 on stock suspension for the time being. I needed to replace my LBJ's so I got the ELBJ's. Just got back from getting an alignment, and I'm not sure what my max camber should be at stock ride hight.

As the car sits, it's 14.25" in the front, and 13.75" rear hub to fender. I was told that all I could get on the front was about -0.85 camber to keep the caster at 5 deg. I was expecting to have a hard time keeping it less then -1.

Does dropping the ride hight effect camber that much, or is there something else going on that might be limiting my camber?
1). Your ride height seems a little high.
2). The rear should be higher than the front.

Sure you have the suspension on right? Torqued bolts on the ground?
dleavitt is offline  
Old 12-27-2016, 06:29 PM
  #3  
Junior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
 
MetalMuffins's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Halifax, NS
Posts: 251
Total Cats: 34
Default

Originally Posted by dleavitt
1). Your ride height seems a little high.
2). The rear should be higher than the front.

Sure you have the suspension on right? Torqued bolts on the ground?
I thought it seemed a little high. It's possible that the FUCA long bolt was tightened in droop. I'll have to re-tighten them under load tomorrow. I'll see if that makes a difference in ride hight and go from there.

As for the max camber, does that seem about normal for that ride hight?
MetalMuffins is offline  
Old 12-27-2016, 06:59 PM
  #4  
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
 
dleavitt's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Salem, OR
Posts: 757
Total Cats: 223
Default

Originally Posted by MetalMuffins
I thought it seemed a little high. It's possible that the FUCA long bolt was tightened in droop. I'll have to re-tighten them under load tomorrow. I'll see if that makes a difference in ride hight and go from there.

As for the max camber, does that seem about normal for that ride hight?
Never had my Miata that high, but you should be able to get more camber than that stock. Especially if you have ELBJs.
dleavitt is offline  
Old 12-27-2016, 07:10 PM
  #5  
Junior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
 
MetalMuffins's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Halifax, NS
Posts: 251
Total Cats: 34
Default

Originally Posted by dleavitt
Never had my Miata that high, but you should be able to get more camber than that stock. Especially if you have ELBJs.
Unfortunately I never checked my alignment before replacing the LBJ's, so i dont have any baseline from my car . I'm going to re-torque all the upper suspension bolts and check alignment again tomorrow if I can.
MetalMuffins is offline  
Old 12-27-2016, 07:50 PM
  #6  
Supporting Vendor
iTrader: (3)
 
emilio700's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 7,352
Total Cats: 2,382
Default

Post your pinch weld heights. Sorry for the dumb question but what exactly is the concern, that you have too much negative or not enough negative camber?

Yes, double A arm and multi link suspensions gain typically have a camber curve from max negative camber at full bump to max positive camber at full droop. So ride height must be decided upon and set before the alignment is begun.
__________________


www.facebook.com/SuperMiata

949RACING.COM Home of the 6UL wheel

.31 SNR
emilio700 is offline  
Old 12-27-2016, 07:59 PM
  #7  
Junior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
 
MetalMuffins's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Halifax, NS
Posts: 251
Total Cats: 34
Default

I'll have to measure pinch hight tomorrow. I thought I would be able to get more negative camber, even at stock ride hight withe the ELBJ.

​​​​​​​As before though, I may have some preload in the FUCA bushings lifting the nose a bit. I was just curious what a normal max negative camber to expect on stock suspension.
MetalMuffins is offline  
Old 12-28-2016, 06:37 PM
  #8  
Senior Member
iTrader: (3)
 
90 Turbo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Plano TX
Posts: 595
Total Cats: -1
Default

Do you trust the shop?

I have personally gotten a bad alignment. They had a nice machine but just f***ed it up completely when I brought my own specs from 949.
90 Turbo is offline  
Old 12-28-2016, 07:20 PM
  #9  
Senior Member
iTrader: (2)
 
dc2696's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Edmonton Ab, Canada
Posts: 1,202
Total Cats: 21
Default

Originally Posted by MetalMuffins
I'll have to measure pinch hight tomorrow. I thought I would be able to get more negative camber, even at stock ride hight withe the ELBJ.

​​​​​​​As before though, I may have some preload in the FUCA bushings lifting the nose a bit. I was just curious what a normal max negative camber to expect on stock suspension.
Have a look at the cam bolts on the LCA, if neither (or at least one of them) is close to max camber setting they have left some camber on the table even at that ride height.
dc2696 is offline  
Old 12-29-2016, 09:27 AM
  #10  
Junior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
 
MetalMuffins's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Halifax, NS
Posts: 251
Total Cats: 34
Default

Here's the thing, when I installed the ELBJ's, ihad a ton of negative camber and toe in. I eyeball aligned it to drive to the shop, and had about -0.75 camber and 6 deg caster when we put it on the rack.

I'm sure there is way more camber in it, but I'm not sure f that is athe the sacrifice of caster.

It was my dad who did the alignment, who has been a mechanic for over 30 years, so I tend to trust his judgement.

TL;DR: does anyone have any pics or ideas on how the cams are generally set to get more caster? We were screwing with it for a bit and it was loosing caster every time we tried to get more - camber
MetalMuffins is offline  
Old 12-29-2016, 10:22 AM
  #11  
Cpt. Slow
iTrader: (25)
 
curly's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Oregon City, OR
Posts: 14,249
Total Cats: 1,150
Default

I usually set the caster bolt to max caster (all the way out), just visually, then only align camber and toe in the front.

You want me to move this to your own thread? Might get a few more responses.

Last edited by curly; 12-30-2016 at 10:54 AM.
curly is offline  
Old 12-29-2016, 10:29 AM
  #12  
SadFab CEO
iTrader: (3)
 
hi_im_sean's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: your mom's house phoenix, AZ
Posts: 4,560
Total Cats: 1,142
Default

Originally Posted by MetalMuffins
does anyone have any pics or ideas on how the cams are generally set to get more caster?

Rotating the FLCA rear cam bolt so that it pushes that end of the arm away from the sub frame, increases caster.
hi_im_sean is offline  
Old 12-29-2016, 05:18 PM
  #13  
Junior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
 
MetalMuffins's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Halifax, NS
Posts: 251
Total Cats: 34
Default

Originally Posted by curly
I usually set the caster bolt to max caster (all the way out), just visually, then only align camber and toe in the front.

You want me to move this to your own thread? Might get a few more responses.
New thread might be a good idea. No need to clutter this one, I'm always hesitant to start new threads haha.

As for the caster bolt, I assume your talking about the rear eccentric and max pushing the FLCA as far away from the subframe as possible? I apologize in advance for a possibility stupid question.
MetalMuffins is offline  
Old 12-29-2016, 07:58 PM
  #14  
Supporting Vendor
iTrader: (3)
 
emilio700's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 7,352
Total Cats: 2,382
Default

Originally Posted by MetalMuffins
New thread might be a good idea. No need to clutter this one, I'm always hesitant to start new threads haha.

As for the caster bolt, I assume your talking about the rear eccentric and max pushing the FLCA as far away from the subframe as possible? I apologize in advance for a possibility stupid question.
New thread time. This particular forum is not a good place to threadjack, which you are doing
__________________


www.facebook.com/SuperMiata

949RACING.COM Home of the 6UL wheel

.31 SNR
emilio700 is offline  
Old 12-30-2016, 12:33 AM
  #15  
Junior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
 
MetalMuffins's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Halifax, NS
Posts: 251
Total Cats: 34
Default

Some more info in regards to how the eccentrics are currently set (now with pictures!). To me, it looks like it is possible to get way more neg camber from this, but after 20 min's of arguing with my dad, I gave up. I guess I'm looking for confirmation that I should be able to get more negative camber and keep my caster at 5 - 6 degrees. You have my permission to call my dad an idiot if that's the case, I'm just not sure.


Front Passenger Side Eccentrics



Front Driver Side Eccentrics
MetalMuffins is offline  
Old 12-30-2016, 12:39 AM
  #16  
Junior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
 
MetalMuffins's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Halifax, NS
Posts: 251
Total Cats: 34
Default

Originally Posted by emilio700
New thread time. This particular forum is not a good place to threadjack, which you are doing
Forgive me Kittens for I have sinned New thread started here
Feel free to clean up this thread (sorry for the mess)
MetalMuffins is offline  
Old 12-30-2016, 12:40 AM
  #17  
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
 
Bronson M's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Posts: 1,106
Total Cats: 217
Default

Lol yeah he's an idiot, the rear eccentrics should be all the way out and they are all the way in. Fronts will be a balance but should be most of the way out.... And yours are no where close.

Think your dad is playing father knows best and aligning it for maximum tread wear as if a normal person would be driving it.
Bronson M is offline  
Old 12-30-2016, 12:48 AM
  #18  
Junior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
 
MetalMuffins's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Halifax, NS
Posts: 251
Total Cats: 34
Default

That is exactly what I thought. We had a long discussion while doing this one. He insists that even -1 deg. camber will "cup the front tires all to **** in no time". Love the guy, but he can be a bit stubborn. Must be where I get it from
MetalMuffins is offline  
Old 12-30-2016, 10:51 AM
  #19  
Cpt. Slow
iTrader: (25)
 
curly's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Oregon City, OR
Posts: 14,249
Total Cats: 1,150
Default

Camber doesn't ruin tires that much, toe does.

Put rear eccentrics all the way out, and then one side will max out in camber before the other. Lock that side all the way out, then match the other side.

Also I brought in all your posts from the ELBJ thread, since it's not a ball joint issue, just daddy issues.
curly is offline  




All times are GMT -4. The time now is 10:16 AM.