EO2K

iTrader: (37)

Rather than eyeball it, are you using something like a straight-edge across the face of the crank pulley to confirm that its all square? I know this seems rudimentary but I couldn't help but ask.

Get some pics up of what you are dealing with and maybe someone will recognize the issue and have some tips for ya.

chiefmg

iTrader: (5)

I understand your comment, you don't know me or my abilities. Yes I have used a straightedge across the pulleys. Last time I checked it they were fine, however the belt still jumped when I ran the car. A comment from another forum about this reminded me there are three axes for alignment, if one is out then there will be problems. Unfortunately there is a limited amount of space to check measurements with the radiator and fans pushed back because of the intercooler, so a calibrated eyeball should get me close enough to see if I am headed in the right direction or not. I don't think pictures will show what I am seeing clearly enough. Right now what I think the issue is are the pulleys are like this: [crankshaft /supercharger pulley. Shimming the forward bracket out should bring the supercharger pulley square with the crankshaft pulley.

baron340

iTrader: (5)

I had the same problem on my JRSC M45. I ended up using two washers in between the forward most bracket and the head and it fixed it. Getting the teeth lined up is the easy part, it's getting the twist angle just right that is most difficult. A reasonably calibrated eyeball should get you close enough to where the belt will stay on, but maybe not track straight, and you can adjust from there.

BarbyCar

iTrader: (1)

I've seen some problems on the 6-rib auto tensioner set ups where the wrong crank pulley was used. Some require a spacer behind the pulley, others not. If your set up is a *not* but a spacer was used then your crank pulley is too far forward.

chiefmg

iTrader: (5)

Thanks for your input. Mine doesn't require a spacer and doesn't have one, so that is fine.

I messed with it earlier today (after running yet more errands with the boss). The three shimming washers helped a lot, I checked pulley alignment and was able to get it spot-on. However when I ran the car the belt still moved off one rib and I was hearing some unusual noises that sounded like they were coming from the nose of the supercharger. I tried making more adjustments but there was no change. Came inside to cool off, took an afternoon nap (I was thinking about things, honest!). Went back out a little bit ago and checked the horizontal plane of both pulleys with my small level. The supercharger appeared to be more level than the crank pulley (remember, the engine is slightly higher in the front) so I removed the two rear bolts and pushed down on the rear of the 'charger. This time when I started it the belt immediately jumped completely off. So, I put the bolts back in again and put the belt back on. Started the car to see how it was, and the belt stayed on and in place! I did start using the belt the guy sent me with the kit which shouldn't have an impact because it's the same as the new one I bought (just has some usage on it). I revved the engine and it was making happy noises and the belt stayed where it was. Hooray!!!! There is a part of me that is annoyed because I don't know specifically what fixed the problem.

rleete

iTrader: (21)

Your pulley was off in the vertical plane. Pushing down the back made the belt jump off, and you happened to get it right when you put the bolts back in.

In other words, it was the front to back tilt of the SC that was off.

chiefmg

iTrader: (5)

It was initially off in two planes. I have a lot of years working on ships and have aligned countless pieces of machinery (motors to compressors, pumps etc) so am familiar with what is involved in getting two pieces to play well together.

EO2K

iTrader: (37)

No worries, was not trying to offend. We deal with a lot of levels of tech experience around here, hence the "couldn't help but ask" part of my comment.

I *almost* bought a used BRP MP62 kit + megasquirt a couple years back. Drove to San Jose to get it and the dude sold it out from under me the day before and didn't bother to cancel my pickup The buyer still runs it at our local autoX IIRC. I can snap some pics next time I'm out there if that might help?

Here's to hoping you find your answers.

Godless Commie

iTrader: (2)

Looks good, with one caveat: IAT location.

After much deliberation I moved my IAT to the other end of the same intake pipe, about 2" above where the pipe comes out of the IC. That way, you still get accurate readings, but eliminate heatsoaking issues, and the resulting starting blues.
Rising engine heat does not take the IAT hostage if it is located in front of the radiator.

Godless Commie

iTrader: (2)

About your alignment issues:

Do you happen to have a spacer between the crank pulley and the big SC pulley?
I have an aluminum spacer (about 6mm or so) between those two pulleys.
Also, what size pulleys are you running?

chiefmg

iTrader: (5)

Thanks for the input guys. I was able to get it lined up finally and it's running, however I now am having issues with it overheating (I posted about this separately on here, the CEL is flashing). It looks like I'll be replacing the thermostat as my radiator is fairly new and the water pump shows no signs of leakage. I'm in London for the next few days for work so that has to wait.

GC, I was not given a spacer for the crank and overlay pulleys, the PO said it didn't have one on his (and he also has a 2000 MY). I do have a space between the crank and overlay pulleys, at some point I'm going to order a replacement overlay from TDR. Right now I'm running a 130mm overlay and (IIRC) 67.5mm nose pulley.

chiefmg

iTrader: (5)

I was out driving on Saturday when I heard an odd noise. Pulled over and checked under the hood to find the crank overlay pulley wobbling. Shut her down and got a tow home. When I removed the pulley yesterday I found that three of the four bolts had sheared. Got in touch with Track Dog Racing today and talked to Gary, he had a spacer on hand so that is now on its way. I have to remove the accessory belts so I can get the stock pulleys off the crank and try to remove the stubs of the bolts that are in there. Then it's just a matter of waiting for the spacer to show up.

For anyone who might find this through a search, apparently Mazda used two different types of crank pulleys on '99-01 cars (according to Gary). The ones that are brown in color are cast and are thicker. The ones that are black are steel and require a spacer for use with the BRP kits. BRP did include the spacer with their kits, but the person I bought mine from apparently had the cast pulley and the original installer of his kit didn't have to use it. I will be getting a new set of 8.8 fasteners (M6 X 35mm) to use and will use LocTite blue when I put the bolts in.

EO2K

iTrader: (37)

Oh christ, really? I had no idea there was a difference in the NB1 pulleys. By thicker, I'm guessing you are talking about the mounting flange only. I would imagine this would not affect other accessory mounting (re: alternator/AC condenser/Rotrex) correct? Thus not affecting people who are NOT using an overlay...

chiefmg

iTrader: (5)

I'm not sure exactly where the difference in thickness is, I believe it's in the center of the pulley since that's where the spacer goes. I'll see if I can get some clear pictures of mine when I have all the pieces. Any accessory driven off the stock pulley won't be affected as far as I know.

This was mentioned in the BRP instructions I found on line and I noted it when I was doing my installation, but the PO said there wasn't one on his car. Since it was also a 2000 MY I thought I was ok. I was under the (mistaken) impression that the different pulleys had a defined cutoff across a model year, but from what Gary told me that isn't the case.

BarbyCar

iTrader: (1)

Believe or not, it's the colour that distinguishes. IIRC Brown ones don't need a spacer.

chiefmg

iTrader: (5)

It's taken me a little longer than I had planned but here are pictures of the pulley setup with the spacer. In the hub you can see two of the three bolts that snapped off. The picture of all components shows the order the pieces go together in. Since I've gotten and installed the spacer the car has been running well with no further problems. This includes an autocross event. Now I just have to get a clutch kit next time home, as if I am not careful the stocker slips.

chiefmg

iTrader: (5)

Found a picture of the other type of crank pulley put on the early NBs. If you compare it to the picture of my steel pulley from the previous post, you can see the cast one has a sort of built in spacer. I am fairly certain the PO of my kit had one of this type on his car which is why he didn't have the spacer.

chiefmg

iTrader: (5)

Wanted to add a little bit of information for others. I am in the process of installing a lot of upgrades. One of those was a set of the AWR sway bar brackets. Unfortunately with the relocation of the radiator for the intercooler, the lower radiator brackets are fouled by the AWR brackets. I can see how to correct the problem, but I don't have the parts readily available at present. For now I just put the stock brackets back on.

Geauxkart

I had to shim my MP62 with a few washers when I upgraded to the 6 rib belt. Wasn't too bad though.

Cxmoney

^^ same here. on my 97 I had to use washers as well. worked perfectly afterwards.