Rotrex heat issues
#1
Rotrex heat issues
Installed the Track Dog Racing Rotrex kit two years ago on my 1.6. I've been chasing heat issues ever since. Used the aluminum radiator that came with the kit. Added hood vents. Added their oil cooler. Even went to E85 for more cooling. The Megasquirt is set to cut rpm when the coolant temp hits 225 and I usually get there within just a few laps. On my first session, I can usually get 7-8 laps before the rpms are cut. On subsequent sessions, I sometimes only get 2 laps. Any suggestions? I have not tried ducting other than the panels that came with the kit. I got a second fan but need to figure out how to wire it - not sure that will really help but I am willing to try. At the track yesterday, I even put some holes n the front bumper cover to try and get air in that does not pass through the intercooler. TDR has been pretty helpful but nothing has worked.
#3
Adding a second fan will only help in the pits, and will make it worse at speed as it’s more obstruction.
the key is to get air flowing through and not around the radiator.
this means ducting, and ensuring you have a belly pan fitted to prevent air coming up from underneath and creating a high pressure zone in the engine bay, thereby stopping air coming though the radiator.
fwiw, I ran a rotrex on my NB1 which also has an alloy radiator, oil cooler, and no bonnet vents, but an undertray and very basic ducting and I don’t have any heat issues with 30min sessions in 100deg heat.
the key is to get air flowing through and not around the radiator.
this means ducting, and ensuring you have a belly pan fitted to prevent air coming up from underneath and creating a high pressure zone in the engine bay, thereby stopping air coming though the radiator.
fwiw, I ran a rotrex on my NB1 which also has an alloy radiator, oil cooler, and no bonnet vents, but an undertray and very basic ducting and I don’t have any heat issues with 30min sessions in 100deg heat.
#4
Something suss going on here, I contemplated a Rotrex conversion for my car, for reasons of avoiding heat-related issues.
Nthing the ducting/sealing as a priority/first step in solving this. Don't just look at the big gaps (eg under the radiator), look at ALL the gaps. You are dealing with air, and a small gap can result in A Lot of air bypassing the radiator. The more you chase down the gaps to build pressure in front of the rad, the more the air chases the remaining gaps.
Nthing the ducting/sealing as a priority/first step in solving this. Don't just look at the big gaps (eg under the radiator), look at ALL the gaps. You are dealing with air, and a small gap can result in A Lot of air bypassing the radiator. The more you chase down the gaps to build pressure in front of the rad, the more the air chases the remaining gaps.
#5
The TDR panels are great for dailies, but you’ll really need to add more custom sealing. For example, the radiator being pushed back - it has a nice, powdercoated cover for the top, but leaves massive holes on the side next to your headlights. At least on my NB, that’s pretty major leakage that could’ve been going through the radiator.
I’m assuming the radiator cap is working since the radiator is new. Can you tell if the 5ermostat is working? If you log coolant temps, you should see the temp drop for a moment as it opens.
I’m assuming the radiator cap is working since the radiator is new. Can you tell if the 5ermostat is working? If you log coolant temps, you should see the temp drop for a moment as it opens.
#7
I will try some better ducting. I just thought the TDR kit had that covered. I do still have the belly pan. I replaced the thermostat and radiator cap just to be sure. The thermostat is a 180 degree one and it works. I installed a real temp gauge so I could keep an eye on it. Seems like ducting is my last hope. If that does not work, I may just remove everything and go back to stock or maybe a K swap. Power is fun but only if you get to use it!
#8
I battled overheating issues for years. Here’s the answer:
singular hood vents
any diy coolant reroute or qmaxx if you have the cash
9LivesRacing sturdi boiis and air damm (you’ll thank me later for your front end planted at the track too)
problem solved.
90 degree days I see 215 running to 7200rpm. And I’m not a novice driver…
singular hood vents
any diy coolant reroute or qmaxx if you have the cash
9LivesRacing sturdi boiis and air damm (you’ll thank me later for your front end planted at the track too)
problem solved.
90 degree days I see 215 running to 7200rpm. And I’m not a novice driver…
#9
I battled overheating issues for years. Here’s the answer:
singular hood vents
any diy coolant reroute or qmaxx if you have the cash
9LivesRacing sturdi boiis and air damm (you’ll thank me later for your front end planted at the track too)
problem solved.
90 degree days I see 215 running to 7200rpm. And I’m not a novice driver…
singular hood vents
any diy coolant reroute or qmaxx if you have the cash
9LivesRacing sturdi boiis and air damm (you’ll thank me later for your front end planted at the track too)
problem solved.
90 degree days I see 215 running to 7200rpm. And I’m not a novice driver…
#10
It was designed around the tdr intercooler. Unfortunately I don’t have the tdr intercooler so I bought LRB full undertray and modified it slightly to fit my intercooler piping.
I have eBay 3 row aluminum radiator that works incredibly well especially for 50% off the CSF cross flow radiator that Goodwin & supermiata sell.
if you have the tdr panels and the sturdi boiis setup with air damn you will be good. Do you have AC?
I have eBay 3 row aluminum radiator that works incredibly well especially for 50% off the CSF cross flow radiator that Goodwin & supermiata sell.
if you have the tdr panels and the sturdi boiis setup with air damn you will be good. Do you have AC?
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