4 Spd Jerico w/ '99 Motor
I think 3k is probably a good estimate to do what I said, assuming you can fabricate. You're into almost 2 grand between a used tranny and the bell housing. If you follow gutted's list you'd be looking at more like 4-6k and you would be able to keep the PPF.
Well to put it into prospective I've figured $10k for a new setup with top shifting and I'm not far off with the est from Taylor Eng. Think the alum trans, top shifter, tilton twin, misc parts, bellhousing are just about $9k +or- and still need drive shaft/crossmember/mount/etc.
Oh wait, you said clamp not duct tape. I'm pretty sure with 12" slicks on all four corners my end result would be the same either way. Broken.
I just put one and one together. I had a spare gear box with me at Nationals. I wish I had known you all broke. We could have swapped the gearbox out in a couple hours on the Wooten's lift.
Thanks! However, it broke on my first run on day two so swapping it out wasn't an option.
And I would use safety wire and zip ties, duct tape is for barbarians.
With my T5 swap, I bolted the PPF to the new transmission cross member. I assume something simple like that would work with a Jerico.
This is an old picture but you get the idea. Now I have the mount on the back side of the crossmember which gives me more room to adjust pinion angle, and there's some urethane foam spacers (hacked up NB front spring stopper) between the PFF & crossmember instead of being rigidly mounted.

You will need an accurately balanced driveshaft...the PPF does buzzzzzzzzzz like a giant tuning fork.
This is an old picture but you get the idea. Now I have the mount on the back side of the crossmember which gives me more room to adjust pinion angle, and there's some urethane foam spacers (hacked up NB front spring stopper) between the PFF & crossmember instead of being rigidly mounted.

You will need an accurately balanced driveshaft...the PPF does buzzzzzzzzzz like a giant tuning fork.
Last edited by TurboTim; Oct 9, 2013 at 01:34 PM.
Do the math. Figure out how much max wheel torque you put down in first gear. (miata 5 speed is 3.163 first) Assume that PPF is 4 feet long or so.
Summin' like 1000lbs.
Summin' like 1000lbs.
But you dont know how much of the rotating force the diff mounts are taking, probably almost all of it. Which is why the diff arm with the notch cracks on cars making a lot of torque. The tranny mount and not connecting the PPF to the tranny mount rather than the subframe basically turns the ppf into an overly heavy diff mount. So you'd save some weight nixing it completely and just putting a mount near the nose of the diff.
The way I see it, and I could be wrong, is that the miata diff housing sees 2 loads.
1. The twist from the driveshaft trying to rotate the diff housing along the direction of driveshaft rotation. That's taken up mostly by the ears. This should be the driveshaft torque divided by the distance to the ear (divided by two, cause there's two ears).
2. The pinion gear trying to climb the ring gear. that load taken up by the PPF.
I'm not confident on how to calculate #2 but both ways I can imagine it bring me around 1000lbs at the end of a 4 foot PPF pole, using 300ftlbs engine, miata first gear, and ~4:1 diff.
1. The twist from the driveshaft trying to rotate the diff housing along the direction of driveshaft rotation. That's taken up mostly by the ears. This should be the driveshaft torque divided by the distance to the ear (divided by two, cause there's two ears).
2. The pinion gear trying to climb the ring gear. that load taken up by the PPF.
I'm not confident on how to calculate #2 but both ways I can imagine it bring me around 1000lbs at the end of a 4 foot PPF pole, using 300ftlbs engine, miata first gear, and ~4:1 diff.






