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Ive had a journal bearing remove itself from the shift fork and have seen a seized pivot bolt (the donotremovethisbolt bolt) prevent or hinder 5/R usage.
when i had my box open, i stretched the reverse lockout spring some and it mightve helped? Ive yet to miss 5th or pop towards R since but im streetcar and the MR shifter fixed most of my gripes.
Last edited by WigglingWaffles; 11-14-2022 at 10:46 AM.
Just an update... Cae Shifter worked great Job done... shifts are precise and no problem with 5th gear & reverse. Next change make the transmition hold 500Nm...
I contacted Jacks Transmissions and they said they could do the 4th gear modification. They're familiar with the AZ6, because they build the FRS/BRZ trans. I also asked them if any of the BRZ modifications (carbon fiber synchros, gear sets, shift forks, bronze shift rail bushings, etc.) can be applied to the Miata AZ6 and there is basically nothing interchangeable between the two. The term AZ6 just defines the basic architecture of the gearbox.
They could rebuild the box with OEM parts, perform the 4th gear mod, and micropolish or WPC treat the internals. So I got disappointed and have given up on the stock trans given that my complaints with it are: it shifts like stirring a bucket of bolts (even with MR shifter), locking out 5th gear on track, and reliably holding 300ft-lbs.
Would that be Jacks transmissions in Colorado Springs, CO?
Hi guys, i watched this thread for ages as i was building up my car. last week it had the final tune and made 411whp with 480nm of torque. retained the 6 speed but had Neat work their magic. the car will do a couple track days here and there but its mostly just for the daily commute and some spirited driving up the local mountains. ill let you guys know if anything happens with the box
Nice car, good HP!!, I hope you have bonnet vents, that's a lot of hot pipe up there. Also be interested in your experience with the Neat mods, please post more about how everything goes in use.
Oh, a Brisbane man! I hadn't heard of Capalaba Motor Repairs, but it looks like they do good work!
Any more details on the build? Are you running E85 or 98?
Been going to Rick and Terry at CMR for a few years now and they do top notch work. This time round I came to them with a list of parts I had in mind and a few requirements, they made a few suggestions and they executed the build exactly how I wanted. They have a dyno in house so they were able to do everything to the car minus the engine machining, powder/ceramic coating and obviously the gearbox work. Heres a screenshot of my spread sheet with all the parts done to it, and yeah the car runs straight E85
Nice car, good HP!!, I hope you have bonnet vents, that's a lot of hot pipe up there. Also be interested in your experience with the Neat mods, please post more about how everything goes in use.
I will definitely bump the thread if I end up munching the box but I am a fairly sedate driver relatively speaking and ill probably avoid clutch dumps and hard launches.
I do have a set of Wilvern motorsport vents but haven't yet installed them. The car has been perfect temps so far on the street and the intake is tucked in the arch with a temp sensor and all is well there also. not sure how well the catch can lines will hold up though so I'm keeping an eye on that. Any other reason why vents would be a must that I'm unaware of?
Properly sited vents exhaust hot air from the under-bonnet, reducing temperatures but importantly aiding flow through the radiator by reducing under-bonnet pressure. Have you done the ducting exercise - blocking avenues for incoming air to bypass the radiator? Without this much of the incoming just passes through engine bay bypassing the radiator, not helping cooling any. I don't know if they are a 'must', but at that power level in Brisbane I'd suggest they are advisable. The proof of the pudding will be coolant temps, I'd be looking at your logs on those, and maybe setting a big warning on the dash using the PS readings. PS1000, not clear in the above?
Yeah, I'd be avoiding those hard launches too, that would be asking for trouble! But you have paid for that grunt, I'm guessing you will be using it, putting that through that box will be testing it, however it is done. I have a spare box I am keeping for just-in-case, I am not at that level and don't plan on getting that far either, but I haven't done the mod either.
Properly sited vents exhaust hot air from the under-bonnet, reducing temperatures but importantly aiding flow through the radiator by reducing under-bonnet pressure. Have you done the ducting exercise - blocking avenues for incoming air to bypass the radiator? Without this much of the incoming just passes through engine bay bypassing the radiator, not helping cooling any. I don't know if they are a 'must', but at that power level in Brisbane I'd suggest they are advisable. The proof of the pudding will be coolant temps, I'd be looking at your logs on those, and maybe setting a big warning on the dash using the PS readings. PS1000, not clear in the above?
Yeah, I'd be avoiding those hard launches too, that would be asking for trouble! But you have paid for that grunt, I'm guessing you will be using it, putting that through that box will be testing it, however it is done. I have a spare box I am keeping for just-in-case, I am not at that level and don't plan on getting that far either, but I haven't done the mod either.
I have a shroud and also a cooling panel to help direct airflow through rather than around the rad and yeah I have already programmed some warnings into the ic7 dash for coolant temp. Again signs of potential overheating on the the street, done about 700km through both traffic and highway so far.
I figure if this box pops I'll go with the typical BMW conversion but I wanted to keep everything as "Mazda" as possible.
You need a whole lot more to do a proper job, search here, or just look closely at the front, the gaps are everywhere. However, if your temperatures are ok (in range) then you probably don't need to go to those lengths - just be aware that there is scope to further improve your cooling.as/when the need arises.
Note, shroud limits flow when moving, useful in traffic though - but, again, if it isn't broken don't fix it.
Yes, the BMW seems to be the go-to for replacing the AZ6, but eyewatering cost, especially as $A dropping against $US.
11-14-2022, 08:55 AM
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