I recall reading owners may have to turn up the dampers to get the same feel, as the orange kits were that comfortable.

Assuming the black 95A kit won’t be as comfortable, and will have increased NVH over the orange 75A?

Should we be expecting the same kind of NVH as spherical / solid bushings ?

Hi zco,

The reason folks were turning up the dampers was not because of the comfort of the polyurethane but because of the reduction in friction. That said, going from the previous 85A to the new 95A does let in more road texture (road noise), but it does not increase or affect harshness over bumps. Definitely much less NVH compared to spherical or solid bushings.

In terms of NVH, it's something like this very scientific diagram i'll make below, from most NVH on the left to least on the right

Spherical ---------------- delrin ------------------------------95A poly ----- 85A poly ------------------------------------------------------------OEM bushings

Not that precise but you get the idea.

Thanks for the above! Much appreciated.

The scientific diagram definitely helped hehe :rolleyes:

The NVH difference between the two durometers, I liken to the difference between a quiet tread and a slightly noisier tread. The way the 863 swallows bumps is the same with either the original 85A orange or current 95A black bushings, and way better than rubber OEM style bushings.

Music to my ears. Was starting to worry it might be abit much for a dual duty car, cheers Emilio!

Is there some sort of tip or trick that I am missing to install the arms back in the car? Working with the RLCA at the moment and just about nothing will work. Bushings are pressed in as far as they go (very difficult to do so) and it seems that there is just not enough clearance to allow the parts to come together.

As a note, generally you'll get quicker tech support if you email us rather than post here. But in this case, here ya go, haha

Did you follow the steps noted at the bottom of page 2? Those bushings are intended to be a very tight fit. You may need to deburr the edges of the cast knuckle to get it to slide together - even if there's no burrs, softening that edge lets it go together a little easier.

Are you having trouble with the inner or outer bushings here? I had a bit of a struggle with the rear lower inner bushings going into the subframe. I hit the subframe pockets with a scotchbrite wheel on a drill to take off years of crud and surface rust. It was a very tight fit, but trying a few different approach angles finally resulted in success. I think I ended up holding the axle/knuckle up out of the way and inserting the RLCA into the subframe. Once that was in place I bolted the knuckle to the arm.

I feel your pain! on both sides of the rears, I wire wheeled and used sand paper to clean and deburr the knuckle. Lots of LUBE on the faces of the bushing and I still had a hard time getting that knuckle in between the bushings. One side took me hours just to get it close. The other side was literally 30 seconds by using enough lube on the face.

I used an all thread rod and some nuts with the provided washers for that location to help squish the bushings ALL the way in. Just be careful with the bronze bushings that should be in the bushing before installing into the control arm

I just did the black bushing 95A upgrade.

Got damn they were tight! I finally got them in by scotchbirghting the area on my subframe, keeping the LCA disconnected from the hub, applying liberal lubrication, and just perfectly lining things up slide/leverage them into place. Took me a good 30 mins on one side, and the other side went in in like 5 minutes once I figured out the trick.

Super tight, I could definitely see with tolerance variations some cars being tricky here. But once they were in everything feels super tight and I have some good confidence in it. Especially compared to the orange bushing install that basically went in by hand without using a press. We'll see! Car is almost fully back together and ready for the next track event at the end of the month. I 100% love and support Supermiata, but this was a bit painful to be honest to do a full bushing swap on the car 2x in the last year.

I hear you. I wish there was more we could do in that regard. Just now that I feel the pain every time I imagine our customers having to do the work twice. We've learned a valuable lesson with this product.

This first black 95A batch is sold out. We have poly set aside for everyone with an orange kit, so if you still have an orange kit don't worry - we have you covered.

For everyone who wants to buy a new kit, we may have them available again later this year, but we may not.

Spare parts will be available for years to come whether the product continues to be offered or not.

I'm in the process of uninstalling my orange kit and putting in the new black bushings. I noticed there is a difference in number/sizes of the bronze bushings in the new kit. Is this of any concern when installing the new bushings using the older bronze bearing sizes? for example, 2 bigger bronze bushings vs 3 smaller bronze bushings (length wise) in the updated kit

Good question. No. We had an overstock of one particular bearing so the later kits have more of those and fewer of the others. For the reinstallation of your 863 bits refer to the old instructions. If you no longer have a copy, email me and I'll send you some.

info@949racing.com

Ok great! Haha, somehow I still have the old instructions. Benefits of forgetting to clean out the boxes in the garage :P

I just finished my black bushing upgrade and got the car on the road. My impressions:

Everything was way tighter, and way more of a PITA going together. Hopefully this is good and I don't develop play in the rear going forward.
The suspension cycles very nicely with the bushing kit. Just like the orange kit. You can really feel the suspension working smoothly and easily.
Even with 800f/450r on bilsteins that definitely aren't properly valved for said rates, the suspension feels great.
There is definitely more NVH, and mabe some extra buzz/vibration from the stiffer durometer. Nothing too bad though, no major complaints there. At this point I have the supermiata hybrid motor mounts and it's pretty buzzy anyways.

I really hope these hold up, doing lots of track work this year and will be keeping a close eye on the play in the suspension/wheels. The orange kit gave me nearly 1/4" of toe in/out after 1 season.

Finishing up my install now, and I'm a little confused on the FU-WASH. Here's what the instructions say:

I feel like that's worded poorly, especially the "the washer on the nut" part. This gap I don't want when the bushings are pressed into the arms fully, it's between the bushing and subframe, no? And if there is a gap, that's where the washer goes?

No. On the FUCA there's always a gap on the inner side of the bushing between the poly and the subframe. The outer side of the bushing (the flange) rides against the OEM washers on the long bolt. If there's a gap between the bushing flange and the OEM washer, that's where the FU wash goes.

Thanks Ed, didn’t think you’d be up so late. I guess it would make more sense once bolted up, I’ll get to it.

Yeah it should be pretty clear. If you have any questions just snap a pic and send it over. Here or email is fine.

Made a lot more sense once I bolted it up. Once tightened, the rear 4130 spacer could hold the OE washer away from the poly bushing, giving it no support. But no washers needed for me. Thanks again!https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...470bb8cd37.jpg