863 bronze bushings @ Supermiata
12-27-2021, 01:17 PM
#1
863 bronze bushings @ Supermiata
Announcing our new 863 suspension bushing kit for the NA/NB. We have been working on these for quite a while. Taking orders now. First kits should ship mid February 2022
Supermiata 863 Suspension Bushing Kit 90-05 MX5 Miata
The SAE 863 "Super Oilite" bronze bushings are positioned in between the steel pin and urethane. This system eliminates the binding of rubber and friction of traditional urethane bushings.
The metal part of the kit will be available separately for those of you that already have an Energy or Prothane kit on your car and want to upgrade.
85A durometer urethane
4130 heat treated Cr-Mo pins with Ra 32 finish (shiny)
Custom cast 863 bronze bushings
Optional zerks
3 year warranty
Video goes into more detail and includes comparisons to other types of bushings.
Supermiata 863 Suspension Bushing Kit 90-05 MX5 Miata
The SAE 863 "Super Oilite" bronze bushings are positioned in between the steel pin and urethane. This system eliminates the binding of rubber and friction of traditional urethane bushings.
The metal part of the kit will be available separately for those of you that already have an Energy or Prothane kit on your car and want to upgrade.
85A durometer urethane
4130 heat treated Cr-Mo pins with Ra 32 finish (shiny)
Custom cast 863 bronze bushings
Optional zerks
3 year warranty
Video goes into more detail and includes comparisons to other types of bushings.
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Last edited by emilio700; 12-29-2021 at 11:49 AM.
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12-27-2021, 05:02 PM
#4
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: ATL
Posts: 1,350
Total Cats: 128
Just when my wallet was starting to recover...
One question; I have RUCA's fitted with eccentric bolts and guides so that I can get better rear camber. The eccentrics are the same as are used on the FLCA and the diameter of the eccentric bolt shaft is bigger than the regular RUCA bolt. Is there enough "meat" on the steel insert for those bushings to be drilled out to accommodate that larger bolt?
One question; I have RUCA's fitted with eccentric bolts and guides so that I can get better rear camber. The eccentrics are the same as are used on the FLCA and the diameter of the eccentric bolt shaft is bigger than the regular RUCA bolt. Is there enough "meat" on the steel insert for those bushings to be drilled out to accommodate that larger bolt?
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12-27-2021, 05:37 PM
#5
Just when my wallet was starting to recover...
One question; I have RUCA's fitted with eccentric bolts and guides so that I can get better rear camber. The eccentrics are the same as are used on the FLCA and the diameter of the eccentric bolt shaft is bigger than the regular RUCA bolt. Is there enough "meat" on the steel insert for those bushings to be drilled out to accommodate that larger bolt?
One question; I have RUCA's fitted with eccentric bolts and guides so that I can get better rear camber. The eccentrics are the same as are used on the FLCA and the diameter of the eccentric bolt shaft is bigger than the regular RUCA bolt. Is there enough "meat" on the steel insert for those bushings to be drilled out to accommodate that larger bolt?
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12-27-2021, 06:00 PM
#6
Elite Member
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: NorthWest NJ
Posts: 1,821
Total Cats: 141
Well, this makes the choice of what suspension bushings to go with a lot easier for me. Gonna be a bit before I am ready to order though.
Xids, forged front end kit, and now bushings..... Suspension by supermiata I guess.
Xids, forged front end kit, and now bushings..... Suspension by supermiata I guess.
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12-27-2021, 06:41 PM
#7
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Canberra, sort of
Posts: 1,090
Total Cats: 184
Just when my wallet was starting to recover...
One question; I have RUCA's fitted with eccentric bolts and guides so that I can get better rear camber. The eccentrics are the same as are used on the FLCA and the diameter of the eccentric bolt shaft is bigger than the regular RUCA bolt. Is there enough "meat" on the steel insert for those bushings to be drilled out to accommodate that larger bolt?
One question; I have RUCA's fitted with eccentric bolts and guides so that I can get better rear camber. The eccentrics are the same as are used on the FLCA and the diameter of the eccentric bolt shaft is bigger than the regular RUCA bolt. Is there enough "meat" on the steel insert for those bushings to be drilled out to accommodate that larger bolt?
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12-29-2021, 07:47 AM
#9
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: ATL
Posts: 1,350
Total Cats: 128
Measured the bolt for the adjuster on the outside of the RUCA, and it's just shy of 0.500 inch (0.497 to be exact). I'll take the chance and drill out those two inserts to fit (unless Emilio would be kind enough to swap out two RUCA-O steel inserts for two FLCA inserts). No matter what, I'm ordering!
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12-29-2021, 11:50 AM
#11
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12-31-2021, 04:32 AM
#14
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2015
Posts: 1,015
Total Cats: 140
Potentially silly question. I understand all the benefits of this setup vs everything else, and I am totally sold on it for a track car. How does maintenance look like in terms of cleaning/re-greasing for a street car though? Was about to install OEM rubber replacement bushings next week, but I now have doubts...
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12-31-2021, 05:18 AM
#15
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Canberra, sort of
Posts: 1,090
Total Cats: 184
My SADFAB poly/bronze kit has been in over three years. No noise, no issues, just a bit of grease. Not a lot of Ks though, OTOH I have a 2km dirt road to my place, so 4km of dirt every time I use the car which should have exacerbated any wear issues but nothing apparent yet.
There may be a difference in the wear characteristics of the bronze sleeves used in the two kits, but I'd be surprised if it made any material difference to wear rates - and with replacement of the sleeves a straightforward exercise it should be no big deal anyway.
Log story short - don't hesitate, poly/bronze rocks.
There may be a difference in the wear characteristics of the bronze sleeves used in the two kits, but I'd be surprised if it made any material difference to wear rates - and with replacement of the sleeves a straightforward exercise it should be no big deal anyway.
Log story short - don't hesitate, poly/bronze rocks.
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12-31-2021, 06:25 AM
#16
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: ATL
Posts: 1,350
Total Cats: 128
My SADFAB poly/bronze kit has been in over three years. No noise, no issues, just a bit of grease. Not a lot of Ks though, OTOH I have a 2km dirt road to my place, so 4km of dirt every time I use the car which should have exacerbated any wear issues but nothing apparent yet.
There may be a difference in the wear characteristics of the bronze sleeves used in the two kits, but I'd be surprised if it made any material difference to wear rates - and with replacement of the sleeves a straightforward exercise it should be no big deal anyway.
Log story short - don't hesitate, poly/bronze rocks.
There may be a difference in the wear characteristics of the bronze sleeves used in the two kits, but I'd be surprised if it made any material difference to wear rates - and with replacement of the sleeves a straightforward exercise it should be no big deal anyway.
Log story short - don't hesitate, poly/bronze rocks.
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12-31-2021, 11:29 AM
#17
Potentially silly question. I understand all the benefits of this setup vs everything else, and I am totally sold on it for a track car. How does maintenance look like in terms of cleaning/re-greasing for a street car though? Was about to install OEM rubber replacement bushings next week, but I now have doubts...
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02-14-2022, 12:20 PM
#20
Received my kit over the weekend. And wow, this kit represents a ****-ton of work from SM.
As advised, I took the time to sort and count all the components of the kit. Packing these must be a special kind of hell, because checking the contents took quite a bit of work. Not a complaint at all, in fact, it’s a testament to the level of thought and detail that goes into these. This isn’t generic in any way: nothing cut-down from a higher-volume part, or “close enough”. It’s 100% as-designed.
A cheap pair of calipers, digital or vernier, are definitely required. Some of the markings on the bushings are really difficult to read - and there’s no way around that. I thought my kit had a screw-up in it, but it turns out I misread a 9 as an 8. Thank goodness for the measurements in the instructions. The numbers cast into the bushings are on a non-critical surface, so they’re not finished post-molding, and the depth/readability of the numbers had to be sacrificed in order to get the critical surfaces right*.
I won’t be putting these on for a couple months so I can’t review the results, but I can tell the engineering and quality are exactly what I expect from SM.
*my assumption, based on limited tangential experience.
As advised, I took the time to sort and count all the components of the kit. Packing these must be a special kind of hell, because checking the contents took quite a bit of work. Not a complaint at all, in fact, it’s a testament to the level of thought and detail that goes into these. This isn’t generic in any way: nothing cut-down from a higher-volume part, or “close enough”. It’s 100% as-designed.
A cheap pair of calipers, digital or vernier, are definitely required. Some of the markings on the bushings are really difficult to read - and there’s no way around that. I thought my kit had a screw-up in it, but it turns out I misread a 9 as an 8. Thank goodness for the measurements in the instructions. The numbers cast into the bushings are on a non-critical surface, so they’re not finished post-molding, and the depth/readability of the numbers had to be sacrificed in order to get the critical surfaces right*.
I won’t be putting these on for a couple months so I can’t review the results, but I can tell the engineering and quality are exactly what I expect from SM.
*my assumption, based on limited tangential experience.
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