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Originally Posted by Savington
(Post 268484)
Emilio recommends the exact opposite, 2.7-2.8 front and 2.3 rear. He says it adds mid-corner grip without sacrificing much on the exit.
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That's funny. I had a icehawk alignment before and it more understeer in lower speed tight turns. With front camber bias this is gone. The only problem I have now is that at highway speeds it feels like it will change lanes if I blink wrong and the steering is very light even with no PS. Not sure if I will add toe in at the front or add caster.
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Running
2.5 front 2.7 back 1/16 out front 1/16 in rear 4 caster appx- don't have the settings sheet at hand ride height 12.5 front 13.5 rear 15x8 225/50/15 RS2 all around handling is fucking amazing compared to other setups i've had 1000 miles on this setting so far and wear looks pretty even done at York automotive mt. airy maryland. |
only at -1.7F and -2.7R, but I agree, the camber in the rear is very nice.
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Originally Posted by faeflora
(Post 277474)
Running
2.5 front 2.7 back 1/16 out rear 1/16 in front 4 caster appx- don't have the settings sheet at hand 15x8 225/50/15 RS2 all around handling is fucking amazing 1000 miles on this setting so far and wear looks pretty even done at York automotive mt. airy maryland. You sure you have that right? |
Keep the specs coming guys.
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If your car is twitchy on the freeway its due to toe out or no toe at all, camber shouldent afect that to much. for the street 1/16 to 1/8 toe in is better for the track the exact oposit will give you faster turn in and steering responce in general.
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Anyone have recommendations for daily driving but still improve handling?
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Maybe I am confused, but Urban's "track" setup is pretty close to what I use for autocross
Originally Posted by UrbanSoot
(Post 268267)
here are new alignment im proposing for my car when its done. im still not sure about camber up front...
-2.4 to -2.8 degrees camber front -2 degrees camber rear max caster 1/16 toe out front 0 toe rear that is track setup though... my specs are in that "specs thread" if interested
Originally Posted by paul
(Post 274192)
Car weighs 2046lbs.
300 rwhp 50/50 cross bias 375/250 spring rates stock front bar, swap between stock rear bar and none. torsen of course auto-xing last week with -2.5 degrees in the rear i had no grip out of turns on my Nitto 225/45/15 NT-01s. Car was last aligned before turbo. Just had it aligned Tuesday to the following specs. FRONT -1.5 camber 4.0 caster (manual rack) -1/8 total toe REAR -1.0 1/16 total Will find out this Sunday how it does. Btw, during the morning session it was pouring and the car was fucking awesome. Of course I was a bit more conservative with the throttle. In the dry when I'd drop the hammer it just couldn't hold. Just for the record. Koni 2812's 750#/400# springs Keizer 15x10 6" backspace Hoosier A6 275/35/15 4.30 Torsen rear end swap All measures with driver in car. Alignment settings Front Camber -2.9/-2.9 Caster 6.3/6.2 ( love those offset bushings) Toe -0.17 degrees ( that should be a little more than 1/8 total toe out) Rear Camber -2.2/-2.2 Toe 0.06 (slightly less than a 16th toe in) Thrust angle -0.04 Corner weights http://www.systemstrategies.com/miat...htsFeb2008.JPG *corner weight calculation courtesy of Dennis Grant FarNorthRacing.com |
Daily driven -1 camber and 1/16-1/8 in, in the front, -1.5 1/16-1/8th out in the rear drives nice with no tire wear isues or jumpieness at all. But this is just for daily street driver.
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Interesting numbers, Chris. My current setup-
Front: Camber -1.5° Caster +5.2, +5.7 (couldn't quite get them even) Toe 0 Rear: Camber -2° Toe 0 I'm running 318/233 springs, FCM-revalved Bilsteins, a 7/8" front bar, no rear bar. Tires are RE-01R on 15x7. This is 80% daily driver, 20% autocrosser and canyon carver. The setup is quite neutral and even-tempered. On trailing throttle you get just a touch of understeer, with the application of power very nicely shifting the vehicle into oversteer. Once the rear tires break loose, you can recover the car almost instantly simply by letting off the throttle. |
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