I just put brakes on my "new" 94 and ran it Sunday. I put OE-style pads up front and HP+ in the back as was recommended by a lot of people on m.net, and I don't like it at all. I'm going to go to either HPS or HP+ up front. I ran HP+ on my previous cars, and just don't like the bite using the OE level pads up front. YMMV.

 

You're convinced this thing is a Camaro aren't you??

 

I dont know why ANYBODY would run staggered pads when they are in SM2 anyway. Where a proper proportioning valve is legal.

 

Me neither, but at least the front pads were cheap... I should've trusted my instincts.

 

Carbotech Bobcats. They're ceramic, don't dust or squeel and stop on a dime. They also have pretty good longevity. IMHO they are a street/autox pad that can't be beat.

 

I've yet to drive it, or any Miata for that matter, so until I get wheel time, yeah, I'm just going about it as I have done in the past. I figure the power/weight ratio will be very similar to my Z28 anyway, granted, the suspension and chassis are total opposites.

I bought NAPA rotors, still trying to decide on pads.

 

anyone running NB with Axxis ultimates?

 

Went w/ Napa pads (ultimate 8) as well.... still no wheel time though, walbro didn't solve my problem!

car still no start :(

 

I've been running the Axxis ultimates for 6 months or so, i really recommend them.

I don't do Autocross, but the tracks here are very tight and twisty basically slightly large go-kart tracks or actual go-kart tracks.

Even with no engine breaking (Auto) and around 220bhp the brakes are great for a 15-20 min session with no fade.
I can't do that on stock pads.


Cheers
Mark

 

power/weight will be very similar, but because your camaro is much heavier, it'll eat through pads and tires like crazy. which is why camaros, firebirds, and corvettes have that reputation.

I have the NAPA rotor & Hawk HPS pad combo, along with FM stainless steel lines. its an awesome setup, but I do only run track days, not autocross, so I'm taking the first lap to heat up my tires and supposedly the brakes. who knows if they're any good cold, I just know the tires aren't.

P.S. my friend upgraded his '91 firebird to C5 front brakes and C5 wheels/tires. those brakes are huge, best $750 he spent.

 

In classing if you swap to a C5 setup on an F-Body it bumps you into SM I believe. I know I cannot afford to get past ESP in my Camaro which is why I've ran STX also. My Camaro still needs about $4k invested to actually compete in ESP ($4k to pickup 3-5 seconds? OUCH!) I'm upgrading from the stock LT1 setup to the LS1 setup. That's legal in ESP.

I might end up buying HAWKS still too, just gotta wait and see how things go. I get amazing pricing on NAPA parts since they're a vendor of mine, so I couldn't beat it. Oops, just realized I got their PBR pads, $31 front list at $56, rear pads list $42 my cost $22, front rotors $16ea list $31, rear rotors list $20 my price $12ea

It's good to have connections!

 

I second that.

 

There's a guy who autocrosses where I do (up in Marina) with a JRSC'ed 90. He runs Axxis Ultimates up front and Hawk Blues in the rear on 1.8 brakes and swears by it. He also took FTD at the last event.

 

I autocrossed for about 4 years w/ Axxis Ultimates and really loved them on my 97 w/ ABS.

This year I switched to Hawk HP+ and think they're considerably better. They do make a bit more noise, but I feel a bit more confident. Plus, with the potential of track days looming in my future, I figured I'd buy a pad that could withstand track better than the Ultimates.

I do have SS lines and run ATE Superblue.

 

Do you know if he is dragging the ebrake to get the Hawks up to temp?

I have Satisfied Grand Sport carbon/ceramic pads on my wife's n/a 96 that I did like 5 track days on earlier in the year. Even this pad, which is deemed a street-performance pad suffered from VERY POOR bite through the first 2-3 braking zones until heated up. It became a very good pad with some heat in it. To the op, do not underestimate the poor cold stop performance of a real race pad. You WILL NOT gain enough temp in autocross situations to get a race pad up to sufficient temp, unless maybe dragging the ebrake to get an aggressive rear pad up to temp.

+1 on the prop valve. Even with my wilwood valve on full rear brake, I still don't see a huge rear bias, but it definitely helps. If my car were a more dedicated SM2 car, I would go with a stock mazda front, probably hawk hp plus or black (or keep the carbotech xp8=dust) on the back, full rear prop, and drag ebrake to get heat in them. The carbotech xp8 all around setup I now have is surprisingly good street/track/autocross setup, but if only street/autocross, I would go with the above.

Edit to add: I switch between ATE super blue and Motul 600 (amber) so I can tell when I get a complete bleed. Also, the stainless lines add some bling, but for autocross save your shekels unless your rubbers are ****. Buy more better tires, instead!

 

I forgot to mention, I swap colors too. ATE has an amber/gold fluid.

Regarding the e-brake...I re-read Andy Hollis' Grassroots Motorsports write up yesterday. He mentioned they pulled up 2 clicks on the e-brake while driving up to start to heat the rear pads.

 

If you just have to spend money, look at the bottom of this page

Carbon Fiber > aluminum