OptionXIII

I swear I don't get used Miata parts pricing. In what world are 10-15 year old, whatever kind of mileage, older design shocks worth less than a 25% discount over brand new, 0-mile shocks? If you NEED the deal, you need to hold out for something cheaper. If you are just looking for Billies on a somewhat short notice, I'd say it's definitely worth the extra fliff for brand new shocks. I got mine for 250 on eBay, close enough to half price for me.

If I buy something brand new and want to sell it to someone else without a warranty, I figure that alone is worth the kind of price difference you're talking about. Used stuff just isn't worth that large a chunk of the brand new equivalent. Both in regards to said shocks and the Miata parts market as a whole, but that's just my opinion.

EDIT: Not specifically directed at you, I'm just tired of seeing people ask too much for stuff. Those shocks included. I'd pass.

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

You have to ask, does that used Hard-S setup come with top hats and springs? You can resell the springs and the tophats are pretty expensive and besides the $20 bushings dont have anything to wear out. And you need NB tophats for this.

crispyBYM

I already have an NB so I can just use the top hats from my car. If I go the used Hard-S route I can have 8 hard-S springs to sell and 4 top hats. Not too bad right?

Now in my build I have a set of NA HD shocks like Spec Miata uses. These should fit my NB top hats no problem correct? They are a little more expensive than NB HD's but they require the grinding down of weird tabs like the OP's did and I don't have the tools to grind them with. They're also a shorter body which helps gain a little travel without the use of extended top hats ($$$).

Here is the link to a spreadsheet of my build. Let me know if anything will kill me here.

My goal is for 12.5"f, 12.75"r measured from hub to fender.

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

They also have literally the worst valving ever.

OptionXIII

Yeah, tophats were included in my price too. Got the Billies for ~$170 and the hats for ~$80 from eBay and Treasure Coast Miata, not exactly places where great deals hide. With a non-slammed ride height and ****-tastic bump stops, I got a decent, non-circlip collapsing setup for thereabouts $550

Just gotta not want it RIGHT NOW and keep your eyes open.

crispyBYM

So you're saying I should grow a pair and grind down those clips?

2manyhobyz

iTrader: (4)

Could you please explain this in detail? I just found a set of these that I was going to buy this afternoon.
AND NOW YOUR SCARE'IN ME MAN!

sixshooter

iTrader: (12)

There's a valving chart in this thread.

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

NA HDs are setup so that a car on stock springs jacks down onto the bump stops when driven hard. And the valving just doesnt make sense for any other use.

2manyhobyz

iTrader: (4)

OK, so I drank the Kool-Aid.
I bought these off craig's list. I know the person who had these, he owns a shop which also preps race cars and he said the client had these on the car for about three days and went to adjustables.
Front: (sticker) F4-B46-1488-H1 (stamped in body) 1710B46 1488H1
Rear: (sticker) F4-B46-1489-H0 (stamped on body) 1008B46 1489H0
Everything points toward these being HD's, which according to Fatcat "on larger bumps where you experience high shock velocities, the damping ramps very rapidly and there is extreme jacking down". So will the choice in springs help this out? I will have to run with stock valving for now, and see maybe next year about re-valving. 00 SE with the extra weight of the turbo stuff and rollbar. I would imagine The car is at at the portly end of the scale (2400+). So does 500/300 still sound about right?
Thanks,
-Jeff

Pics

jpreston

iTrader: (4)

Yep, those are NA HDs. I used them with 550/325 and 700/400 and both setups worked well. 700/400 wasn't comfortable on the street but was fast on track. I sold those shocks to a friend when I switched to XIDAs. He's been daily driving the 550/325 setup for a couple years now and loves it on the street and track.

crispyBYM

So I'm pretty much ready to pull the trigger on everything I need. Before I get into it, I just want to clarify my spring choice.

So I'll be running 450 lbs/in in front and 300 lbs/in in rear for 7" length front/rear. With NB top hats and a 12.25" Front and 12.75" rear ride height I should be fine correct? The car will be mainly DD with as much track and autocross as I can make.

2manyhobyz

iTrader: (4)

Thanks
I am looking at the QA1 springs, someone said they have a lower "Block Height"
In their 7" high travel coils I have to choose from 550 & 650 front and 300 & 350 rear. If I have to add short helper springs for the droop, will that add a few more pounds to the rating numbers above?
-Jeff

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

Nope. Spring rates don't add like that.

with 7" springs you wont need helpers. I would run 6" in front.

jpreston

iTrader: (4)

What aidan said. Of those options, I would run 6" 550lb front and 7" 300lb rear without helper springs.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

Thats what i ran. They were pretty good.

Front helpers are optional IMO.

2manyhobyz

iTrader: (4)

Thanks, moving forward

2manyhobyz

iTrader: (4)

So how much further down on the ring does this design capture compared to the allstar design? Pics? Measurements? Thanks

Eunn

So my car came with bilsteins on it and they are a bit odd. They have an extra snap ring on them. I imported it from Japan in November and it is an S-Special Type I. Maybe factory but maybe not. One was blown and I'm going to rebuild and revalve them. Very easy to disassemble. I read this a few times. I found the shrader valves at home depot and any motorcycle shop can recharge them back up with nitrogen.
DIY Bilstein revalve project - Honda-Tech


Drill a hole near the bottom to relieve the gas pressure in a spot you want the valve to go (it's a lot of pressure and it shoots metal shavings)


Remove the Top cap by tapping it off with a chisel.



Realize you can't get the cap past this collar and snap ring.


Tap the top cap down into the shock slightly to expose and remove the first snap ring. The top cap design on my shocks was a pain to remove because I couldn't grab it with anything. I put a slide hammer on the shock shaft and used the hydraulic pressure to push it out. This method is not ideal because it moves the floating piston that separates the oil from gas as this has a set 'free height' for oil volume. Since this one was blown I knew the free height might be already messed up. When I tackle the other ones I'll figure something else out.

After you remove the top cap you can remove the second snap ring and pull the shaft and piston assembly out of the body. I don't have pictures of this because it was messy as hell. Dump the oil out of the body and look at the pile once useful **** you probably just ruined. If the shock was not leaking pour the oil into a measurement container (graduated cylinder if you will) so you have a rough idea of how much oil you should put back in.


You can see the free floating piston down inside the body. I still have to clean up the schmoo from water mixing with the leaked oil. The wear line inside the bore should be an easy fix.



As you can sort of see in the picture my shock shaft is dickered. The chrome is scored from the bushing in the top cap wearing out. Shock shafts are available as are a rebuild kit. The replacement shock shaft will have to have the flat cut in it but I might just drill the mount.

I've been doing some research on valving numbers and shim stacks. Maybe we can get enough DIY guys doing our own re-valves and get somewhere. I can make a new post if people are interested.

stefanst

iTrader: (1)

Yes- new post please. I am definitely interested in DIY revalve and have already been Googling, but couldn't even find the proper rebuild kit.