Did another track session, brakes not happy... (pics inside)
#1
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Did another track session, brakes not happy... (pics inside)
Had a track session today, first time in at least 6 months The rollbar, harness and seat make all the difference in actually staying in the right spot without holding yourself in the seat
Session was only about 20 minutes and the track is not that demanding on brakes (only 3 hard braking points from 90-100 to 30-40) but still managed to fade them badly. After the cooling down run around the parking lot and stopping, I noticed the brake pedal going to the floor as easy as the throttle pedal. Took zero effort to push the pedal al the way to the floor. I noticed the right front brake caliper burned of most of the paint and the rotor does not look healthy either. The rest of the calipers and rotors still look as good as they did before
The right front caliper:
The left front caliper:
What I'm planning on now is stainless braided lines, fluid change to good DOT 4 fluid (ATE super blue is on sale here now) and decent pads, probably Axxis Ultimates or Ferodo 2500's. I don't want to change pads every month for a 20 to 40 minute track session.
Do I need proper ducting (have R-pack lip and splitter) or just learn how to brake properly?
The car as it looks right now:
Session was only about 20 minutes and the track is not that demanding on brakes (only 3 hard braking points from 90-100 to 30-40) but still managed to fade them badly. After the cooling down run around the parking lot and stopping, I noticed the brake pedal going to the floor as easy as the throttle pedal. Took zero effort to push the pedal al the way to the floor. I noticed the right front brake caliper burned of most of the paint and the rotor does not look healthy either. The rest of the calipers and rotors still look as good as they did before
The right front caliper:
The left front caliper:
What I'm planning on now is stainless braided lines, fluid change to good DOT 4 fluid (ATE super blue is on sale here now) and decent pads, probably Axxis Ultimates or Ferodo 2500's. I don't want to change pads every month for a 20 to 40 minute track session.
Do I need proper ducting (have R-pack lip and splitter) or just learn how to brake properly?
The car as it looks right now:
Last edited by Oscar; 09-21-2008 at 12:36 PM.
#3
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Zandvoort was excellent, dry and slightly overcast and some wind, but very nice overall. The sessions were not crowded at all which is very good aswell.
Not sure about the dragging caliper. Shouldn't I have noticed that before? The paint only came of after this sessios and the car never pulls to the right or makes funny sounds at the brakes. I'll check them soon tho. The drive home (20 minutes) was ok, just needed some more brake pressure to actually stop
I have one Corbeau Forza seat btw.
Not sure about the dragging caliper. Shouldn't I have noticed that before? The paint only came of after this sessios and the car never pulls to the right or makes funny sounds at the brakes. I'll check them soon tho. The drive home (20 minutes) was ok, just needed some more brake pressure to actually stop
I have one Corbeau Forza seat btw.
#6
You still have rust in the grooves after the session? Then you're not getting full contact between the pad and the rotor. Using "all" of the braking power available should seat the pads to the rotor surface in a short time.
There is a technique to braking- it has a "power curve" similar to that of a big turbo on a small engine. That curve allows a smooth transfer of load to the front end. As load moves forward, grip goes up and braking (pedal) force increases.
I raced with a guy who ran Mazda stock pads and never had problems, though they were only good for the weekend which was about 2-3 hours of track time.
There is a technique to braking- it has a "power curve" similar to that of a big turbo on a small engine. That curve allows a smooth transfer of load to the front end. As load moves forward, grip goes up and braking (pedal) force increases.
I raced with a guy who ran Mazda stock pads and never had problems, though they were only good for the weekend which was about 2-3 hours of track time.
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You still have rust in the grooves after the session? Then you're not getting full contact between the pad and the rotor. Using "all" of the braking power available should seat the pads to the rotor surface in a short time.
There is a technique to braking- it has a "power curve" similar to that of a big turbo on a small engine. That curve allows a smooth transfer of load to the front end. As load moves forward, grip goes up and braking (pedal) force increases.
I raced with a guy who ran Mazda stock pads and never had problems, though they were only good for the weekend which was about 2-3 hours of track time.
There is a technique to braking- it has a "power curve" similar to that of a big turbo on a small engine. That curve allows a smooth transfer of load to the front end. As load moves forward, grip goes up and braking (pedal) force increases.
I raced with a guy who ran Mazda stock pads and never had problems, though they were only good for the weekend which was about 2-3 hours of track time.
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I'm very surprised there is still rust on the caliper after a track day.
Something not right there imo. I would go with new rotors, pads, and stainless brake lines and see if that fixes it.
Something not right there imo. I would go with new rotors, pads, and stainless brake lines and see if that fixes it.
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So I ordered some pads. Decided to get some Ferodo DS2500s all around. Both front calipers will be rebuilt. Need to take of the rotors to check them, but I'll probably replace them too. Fluid will be done at the same time, aswell as stainless lines.
I thought that, even with a complete stock brake system, you should be able to lock the fronts on the track when braking hard. Never managed to even tho I brake plenty hard
I thought that, even with a complete stock brake system, you should be able to lock the fronts on the track when braking hard. Never managed to even tho I brake plenty hard
#18
I was thinking that it was a sticking caliper, but the rusted rotor grooves are throwing me off. I think the "rust" might actually be brake dust bedded in the rotor. I could be wrong, though.
Pedal feel is gone because you boiled your brake fluid. Been there, done that.
Your new list of brake upgrades is good. I run Hawk Blues on the track w/ r compounds now because I boiled my motul with hawk hp+ pads and race tires.
Let us know your thoughts after you track it with the new equipment.
Pedal feel is gone because you boiled your brake fluid. Been there, done that.
Your new list of brake upgrades is good. I run Hawk Blues on the track w/ r compounds now because I boiled my motul with hawk hp+ pads and race tires.
Let us know your thoughts after you track it with the new equipment.
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Stainless lines ordered. Pads are on backorder and should get here in less than 2 weeks. Still undecided about rotors. Fluid will be ATE super blue.
I think that should hold up decently on the track for the time being
I think that should hold up decently on the track for the time being