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Old 08-05-2009, 12:41 AM   #1
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Default BRAKE BLEED head strainer.

ok well after a long time of not driving my car due to a crash i have finally put it all back together and now im ready to bleed the brakes. When i bleed the rear stock calipers it shoots out a stream of fluid and the pedal recedes to the floor. good right? right. ok then i move to the front where i have aftermarket calipers with 2 bleeder screws on each caliper one on the inner pad and one on the outter i bleed the inner first then the outter. Fluid streams out but the pedal doesnt recede to the floor and the pedal doesnt firm up. Once the car is turned on what little pedal i had is now completely gone. my questions are as follows

-should the pedal recede?
-do i open both front bleeders at the same time?
-what am i doing wrong

also i had to replace some parts in the brake system due to the crash and the other i couldnt so its still bent
-custom made brake line i made today out of parts from my local speed shop
-the fitting that connects to the brake line and then screws into the caliper is bent

any ideas that would help would be nice i wanna drive my car so bad
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Old 08-05-2009, 12:51 AM   #2
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You have a kinked line? Are you surprised that its not working right? Seriously dude, come on.

he pedal should drop all the way down. Bleed the outside first on the wilwoods.

did the master go dry? Could you have a leak? If you have the Wilwood prop valve then you need to seal the NTP fittings, I don't care what anyone says.

You need to start from the top and go all the way down. Bench bleed the master, then work your way down. My sister had a bad master cylinder in her newish MSM, so that can happen too.
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Old 08-05-2009, 12:57 AM   #3
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well the fitting is alittle bent but it doesnt seem to be restricting flow cuz fluids coming out.

so even with the aftermarket calipers it should still drop? its winpro btw

the master went dry only when i had to drain it to changed the line is that enough to need a bench bleed?

i dont think theres a leak i see no fluid anywhere and the vac line looks good.

thanks for your input i will bench bleed the master tmrw
i have no aftermarket prop valve or anything like that
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Old 08-05-2009, 10:26 AM   #4
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Thread sidejack-- anyone use speedbleeders? I have always had a horrible time brake bleeding. I can never get the pedal to quite firm up.
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Old 08-05-2009, 10:36 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by faeflora View Post
Thread sidejack-- anyone use speedbleeders? I have always had a horrible time brake bleeding. I can never get the pedal to quite firm up.
Yes, and no problems bleeding and firming up pedal.
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Old 08-05-2009, 11:24 AM   #6
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I love speed bleeders. I've had mine on since around year 2000.
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Old 08-05-2009, 11:26 AM   #7
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you can eliminate air in the master, or you can keep the variable, you decide.
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Old 08-06-2009, 12:54 AM   #8
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update***

ok today i bleed the master and still when the car is turned on the pedal pressure is lost.
is it time for a new master maybe?
or is there something else wrong?
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Old 08-06-2009, 11:56 AM   #9
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Um, when you are bleeding, are you building up pressure and then releasing it in a quick burst? It sounds like you are just opening the bleeder and then pumping the brake while it's open still.
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Old 08-06-2009, 12:11 PM   #10
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Um, when you are bleeding, are you building up pressure and then releasing it in a quick burst? It sounds like you are just opening the bleeder and then pumping the brake while it's open still.
this works fine as long as you're using a pressurized bottle with brake juice in the bottle and line. I've done this for years with no problem.

What about the kinked line? How did you bleed the master?
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Old 08-06-2009, 02:40 PM   #11
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Got ABS?
Probably air in there. Will takes multiple runs of activating ABS (rear wheels up, run in 2nd gear, brake hard - or just on the grass) and bleed after that. You can also bleed the ABS unit by cranking the banjos on top of the unit while someone pressurises the pedal.
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Old 08-06-2009, 02:51 PM   #12
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...or get a vacuum pump.
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