Brake master cylinder brace, and servo / booster removal - Page 2 - Miata Turbo Forum - Boost cars, acquire cats.

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Suspension, Brakes, Drivetrain discuss the wondrous effects of boost and your miata...

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Old 10-24-2011, 07:55 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by Alta_Racer View Post
Bob

I had already put on the 1.8 brakes all around, and was unhappy with front lockup all the time. My approach was to up the rears a little, with the larger sport caliper.

This was the fix for me, as now instead of the prop valve screwed to all the way more rear, to about 3 turns from the end, and now I can adjust for track conditions. No more flat spotted fronts, much less front pad wear, and now that the rears are actually biting the rotor, the noise is all but gone.

I cannot imagine a front only upgrade being manageable, and I now have another set of sport calipers to put on my street car!

Ron
That is not what I was asking.

My car now has 11.75" front rotors with 1.38" X4 pistons. and 11.44" rear rotors with 1.375" Sport caliper pistons but it still has a booster although it has a 1" Master cylinder.

The bias is great and tunable with this setup via the wilwood adjuster. But sometimes Heal toe and left foot braking the booster really jacks with brake feel and consistancy.

So in getting rid of the booster. it seems I would want to up the mechanical leverage ratio a bit to make up for the lack of boost? There are some options.

1) Go back to a 7/8" master cylinder.

2) Maybe use calipers with 1.5" pistons front and rear. Or maby 1.5" in the front and 4 piston 1.375" in the rear.

Designing the braking system from scratch I do have some options. I might even go to a dual master setup.

Bob

Last edited by bbundy; 10-24-2011 at 08:28 PM.
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Old 10-24-2011, 09:19 PM   #22
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Just my "opinion" but I would think the 1" would be an improvement to mine, less pedal movement. I do not have issue with pedal pressure, but dont think less distace would be an issue.

Willwood tripple master is in my future, with luck this winter. I have good brakes, but with losing the E-Brake, one leak could be serious! The tripple (dual with clutch) would be safer, and more adjustable. I'm also in for less clutch pedal distance.

Bigger rotors are out for me till I can afford to change to 8 larger wheels.
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Old 11-07-2011, 01:23 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by Alta_Racer View Post
Just my "opinion" but I would think the 1" would be an improvement to mine, less pedal movement. I do not have issue with pedal pressure, but dont think less distace would be an issue.

Willwood tripple master is in my future, with luck this winter. I have good brakes, but with losing the E-Brake, one leak could be serious! The tripple (dual with clutch) would be safer, and more adjustable. I'm also in for less clutch pedal distance.

Bigger rotors are out for me till I can afford to change to 8 larger wheels.
The 1" Tandem wilwood master cylinder has front and rear circuits completely independent. I think if you lost a single brake line on a corner you wouldn’t lose all brakes like with the stock one.

http://www.wilwood.com/MasterCylinde...temno=260-8794

Bob
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Old 11-07-2011, 04:11 PM   #24
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I am thinki8ng more along the lines of this

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Old 11-08-2011, 12:56 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by Alta_Racer View Post
I am thinki8ng more along the lines of this
I have been looking at those but not sure the ergonomics could be worked out right. If you look at where the stock location of the brake pedal is it is directly under the steering column. The pedal arm makes a jog to the right to get it there. I think to fit this thing in the brake pedal would end up about 3" further from the gas pedal and you would have to have your leg crossed under the column to operate the brake. It might work but it may not be too simple to get the positions right. .

Bob
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