Calipers - Buying used stock sport calipers vs. new Remanufactured
#1
Calipers - Buying used stock sport calipers vs. new Remanufactured
I had a sticking front left caliper yesterday and went to advance auto parts for a "Wearever" replacement that I changed in paddock and continued on my day at the event. That got me thinking... with 125k miles on the car and a lot of autox/track time, the other calipers are probably on their way to sticking as well (I bought the car a year ago and have no idea how the previous owner maintained the brakes.)
I wanted to get opinions on the following options:
1. Take stock calipers apart, rebuild/regrease
2. Buy OEM Remanufactured calipers from dealer
3. Buy advance auto sport calipers all around
4. Buy used sport caliper set from TreasureCoastMiata or similar
5. Upgrade to Wilwood fronts (and figure something out for rears)
Will also swap the original hubs for Mazda Motorsports or something.
The car is a N/A bolt-on '01 with ABS that sees track time but also street driving.
I wanted to get opinions on the following options:
1. Take stock calipers apart, rebuild/regrease
2. Buy OEM Remanufactured calipers from dealer
3. Buy advance auto sport calipers all around
4. Buy used sport caliper set from TreasureCoastMiata or similar
5. Upgrade to Wilwood fronts (and figure something out for rears)
Will also swap the original hubs for Mazda Motorsports or something.
The car is a N/A bolt-on '01 with ABS that sees track time but also street driving.
#2
I've been buying Rockauto remanufactured ones. They are $40-$60 after you return the cores. Its not worth my time to rebuild the ones on the car.
My opinions:
1. not worth my effort. I hit the easy button so I can focus any available garage time on other things.
2. expensive compared to other options
3. not sure of cost but a good approach
4. if not rebuilt you'd probably want to rebuild
5. if your build path takes you that route, it eliminates a lot of these issues. with that said, i think people time out the calipers and replace them every so often.
My opinions:
1. not worth my effort. I hit the easy button so I can focus any available garage time on other things.
2. expensive compared to other options
3. not sure of cost but a good approach
4. if not rebuilt you'd probably want to rebuild
5. if your build path takes you that route, it eliminates a lot of these issues. with that said, i think people time out the calipers and replace them every so often.
#7
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100% agree. I did this and then painted them with gloss black caliper paint before install. Easy peasy.
I've been buying Rockauto remanufactured ones. They are $40-$60 after you return the cores. Its not worth my time to rebuild the ones on the car.
My opinions:
1. not worth my effort. I hit the easy button so I can focus any available garage time on other things.
2. expensive compared to other options
3. not sure of cost but a good approach
4. if not rebuilt you'd probably want to rebuild
5. if your build path takes you that route, it eliminates a lot of these issues. with that said, i think people time out the calipers and replace them every so often.
My opinions:
1. not worth my effort. I hit the easy button so I can focus any available garage time on other things.
2. expensive compared to other options
3. not sure of cost but a good approach
4. if not rebuilt you'd probably want to rebuild
5. if your build path takes you that route, it eliminates a lot of these issues. with that said, i think people time out the calipers and replace them every so often.
#10
Pardon the mild necro, but are remans a crapshoot with bleeder screw seats, or does a certain brand have them on point? I just threw on a set of reman Centrics (after seeing TCM recommend/carries them) and both fronts spit fluid into my barrels at the track still seep fluid.
The proper "light-snug" torque spec wasn't keeping fluid from seeping past the threads upon initial install, so I just cranked em down and sent it. I didn't lose a ton of fluid or any brake performance, just annoying. Tempted to just grab whatever NAPA has and cross my fingers.
The proper "light-snug" torque spec wasn't keeping fluid from seeping past the threads upon initial install, so I just cranked em down and sent it. I didn't lose a ton of fluid or any brake performance, just annoying. Tempted to just grab whatever NAPA has and cross my fingers.
Last edited by norcal; 12-11-2022 at 03:34 AM. Reason: realized the issue I was troubleshooting was not too severe
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