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Old 01-25-2013, 09:17 PM   #1
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Default Calling out suspension gurus.. (Rear camber issue)

I am trying to come up with a solution for the excessive rear camber issue in the rear after installing shorter springs.

Currently RR is at -2.74, and LR has -3.64, with the eccentric bolts maxed out.

Can I elongate the holes on the rear control arms where the arm is connected to the hub assembly? (A mechanical locking method must be devised to avoid slipping due to lateral forces)

Can an eccentric bolt be used in that hole? (The hole may need to be enlarged to accept the bolt)

In either case, slight grinding will be necessary to accommodate the knuckle.

In other words, can I find a solution for this problem without dropping a few hundred bucks for questionable looking "adjustable" control arms plus international shipping?

I know ICS carries offset delrin bushings, but I'm told they take out only 1.5 degrees.

For the record, I am using Tein S springs all around.
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Old 01-25-2013, 09:34 PM   #2
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Control arms are bent.
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Old 01-28-2013, 10:58 AM   #3
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Control arms are bent.
Not necessarily.


What's the ride height?
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Old 01-28-2013, 11:07 AM   #4
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Not necessarily.


What's the ride height?
If his pinch welds are 3" off the ground (reasonable minimum) and he can't get less than -3.6* of camber...control arms are bent.
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Old 01-28-2013, 11:33 AM   #5
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I'm going to say Hustler is probably right. Something is possibly bent. Or your bushings are worn out and over-compressed. The maximum negative camber I can acheive is -3.1 with the stock bushings and camber adjusters at my height. When they had the car on the rack for my alignment they had a range of right about -0.3 to -3.x by turning the adjuster bolts for the rear.
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Old 01-28-2013, 11:50 AM   #6
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Upper arms bent or the hubs themselves are bent (have seen it with my own eyes). But on both sides?
Where these minimal cambers with reasonable Toe (would suggest to me that the LCAs and subframe are in "perfect" shape)?

There is also the possibility of skewed measurements, does you eyes support the measurements?
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Old 01-28-2013, 12:07 PM   #7
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Grand prize goes to Sixshooter...

First off, ride height is right at 11.6" (29.5 Cm)...

My problem was the apparent difference in camber between the two sides. I took the car to the Mazda Service today. (Shitty weather, can't take the car apart outside - and I get to do my own work at that place, so, they're cool..)

I took the rear suspension apart to find that the long bolt attaching the upright to the lower control arm was bent. To the point where I would rotate the bolt, and the upright would "dance"...
Also, the single bushing in the upright (connecting the upright to the upper arm) was shot. I pulled it out using one finger.

So, once I straightened out the long bolts and replaced that one bushing, the camber difference went away. I now have about -2.1 to -2.2 degrees in the rears. And, that I can deal with, using offset delrin bushings.

I will make the bushings myself. Piece of cake.

I also ordered the long bolts, along with a set of eccentric adjusting bolts for the rear.

I should be perfectly to spec in about a week or so, when all the parts arrive.


BTW, nothing is bent. There was a very low mile Miata at the shop, and I checked all my measurements against that car. All measurements are spot on.
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Old 01-28-2013, 01:17 PM   #8
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Grand prize goes to Sixshooter...

First off, ride height is right at 11.6" (29.5 Cm)...
Measure at the pinch welds, like an adult.
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Old 01-28-2013, 01:40 PM   #9
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Measure at the pinch welds, like an adult.
Did I tell you it's snowing outside?
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Old 01-28-2013, 03:13 PM   #10
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Did I tell you it's snowing outside?
Then be sure to measure to the bottom of the snow, lol.
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Old 01-28-2013, 03:25 PM   #11
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Can an eccentric bolt be used in that hole? (The hole may need to be enlarged to accept the bolt)


This statement bothers me. You DO have eccentric bolts in your lower control arm mounts right? If you just have a straight bolt that you're sliding in the slot that's also a problem Or were you referring to putting an eccentric in the top of the knuckle to the uca?
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Old 01-28-2013, 04:18 PM   #12
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This statement bothers me. You DO have eccentric bolts in your lower control arm mounts right? If you just have a straight bolt that you're sliding in the slot that's also a problem Or were you referring to putting an eccentric in the top of the knuckle to the uca?
Quit yer snickerin'.

Do you see a question mark after those bunch of words I typed in that post?
Yes. You do.

Then, it is NOT a statement. It's a ******* question.

Also, that QUESTION refers to the outside of the upper control arm.

Sooooo, there's no point in giggling about the lower control arm mounts, is there Einstein?
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Old 01-28-2013, 06:06 PM   #13
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Old 01-29-2013, 02:17 AM   #14
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Wow way to not be clear then be a dick about a light-hearted post.

People have been, are, and continue to be dumb, and it never hurts to double check the obvious.
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Old 01-29-2013, 02:52 AM   #15
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I'll just shut up here...

Reading and comprehension are wonderful skills, btw.
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Old 01-29-2013, 04:47 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by Godless Commie View Post
I'll just shut up here...

Reading and comprehension are wonderful skills, btw.
Very true It's even more pertinent coming from someone who's English isn't their first language, (I'm assuming this based on your location).
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Old 01-31-2013, 02:24 PM   #17
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i just came back from the alignment shop and have this problem too. My car is on r stock springs with koni yellows and is on the highest perch. I have around -3.6 camber in the rear. I do have a sub in the back and the lightweight racing floor jack from harbor freight back there.

But after reading that control arms might be bent has me wondering as i was rear ended back in july




it drives fine but im also wondering how to fix all my neg. camber

it did buckle my rear quarter and bent the hell out of my fm rear brace to hood up my tow hook. its like this now /\
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