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Old 09-04-2015, 03:08 PM   #61
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Originally Posted by sixshooter View Post
True. If N/A you can go as light weight as you can and still be dog slow.
</p><p>FTFY&nbsp;<img alt="Giggle" src="https://www.miataturbo.net/images/smilies/gay.gif" style="height:21px; width:15px" title="Giggle" /></p>
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Old 09-04-2015, 04:20 PM   #62
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FTFY
Also true.

I can't prove anything but I speculate that very light flywheels and unsprung discs contribute to Bundy's collection of broken 6 speeds. He probably needs much stronger than normal springs in the discs to operate properly, but I think most cars should use them to reduce mechanical shock. The guy building the disc needs to put springs in his that are designed for 400ft/lbs. and might not be. It may not be THE answer but for my 2 cents I think it could help.
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Old 09-04-2015, 04:28 PM   #63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sixshooter View Post
Also true.

I can't prove anything but I speculate that very light flywheels and unsprung discs contribute to Bundy's collection of broken 6 speeds. He probably needs much stronger than normal springs in the discs to operate properly, but I think most cars should use them to reduce mechanical shock. The guy building the disc needs to put springs in his that are designed for 400ft/lbs. and might not be. It may not be THE answer but for my 2 cents I think it could help.
But math can. I 100% agree with you. It can be shown to be true with math.

I run a stock 18lb flywheel and a sprung organic clutch, sold my 10lb flywheel.

Someone posted in my thread I made about this topic with good info from aircraft applications where this is well accepted.
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Old 09-04-2015, 04:31 PM   #64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by patsmx5 View Post
Someone posted in my thread I made about this topic with good info from aircraft applications where this is well accepted.
Someone sure did
https://www.miataturbo.net/suspensio...trength-83376/
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Old 09-04-2015, 04:32 PM   #65
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Hey it was you! Nice. You have my respect.
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Old 09-04-2015, 04:33 PM   #66
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Hey it was you! Nice. You have my respect.
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Old 09-08-2015, 10:38 AM   #67
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ACT throw out bearing ok? Or do i need to spring for the pimpy FM deal as well?
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Old 09-08-2015, 10:48 AM   #68
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Originally Posted by concealer404 View Post
ACT throw out bearing ok? Or do i need to spring for the pimpy FM deal as well?
I just used the one that came with the kit. I dont see a reason not to.
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Old 09-08-2015, 01:25 PM   #69
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One of the things a flywheel does is store energy to be released when power is not being added by the engine. It was discussed in the other thread that the peaks on the graph would not be as high, which is true, but the valleys where the crank is slowing down would not be as low. It reduces the peaks and raises the valleys to create a more linear power application. I'm contemplating going to a stock flywheel with the 6 speed and 3.63 gears to see if the trans will last at higher power outputs.
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Old 09-08-2015, 01:28 PM   #70
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<p>Do it for science</p>
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Old 09-08-2015, 04:31 PM   #71
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Originally Posted by shuiend View Post
He is going to use a lightweight 1.6 flywheel. All the FM setups require you to goto a 1.8 flywheel of some sort.
It must be a really lightweight 1.6 flywheel, given that both Happy Meal flywheel options are lighter than the OEM 1.6.
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Old 09-08-2015, 04:32 PM   #72
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It must be a really lightweight 1.6 flywheel, given that both Happy Meal flywheel options are lighter than the OEM 1.6.
......

Not sure if trolling.
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Old 09-13-2015, 09:21 PM   #73
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Not a good day. Clutch install itself went great. Going to like the clutch i think, seems super easy to drive when i'm not fighting other issues. (Read below.)

Noticed after a whopping 2000 miles, the fluid in my master cylinder reservoir was black and silty-looking. Threw enough fluid through it to clear it up and re-bled.

Pedal is super inconsistent and no matter how high up i adjust it, the clutch refuses to disengage completely 85% of the time. 15% of the time it works perfectly. 85% of the time i have to put waaaaaay more force than should be necessary to get the car into 1st or reverse, and it shifts like garbage otherwise.

So i replace the slave and bleed the helllll out of the clutch. Slave cylinder was bad (Is 2000 miles all i can expect out of the slave 949 sells?) Ran the entire system dry, then started over. Bled until no bubbles, then did 10 more cycles.

Re-adjusted clutch. The fact that it DID need re-adjusting, again, tells me that something was amiss.

Same exact thing is still happening. Going to replace clutch master cylinder tomorrow on the offchance that it too is bad within 2000 miles. Replaced both from 949 Racing at the same time.

No matter how i adjust the clutch, whether it's engaging right off the floor, or around my ears, it still won't consistently disengage. Anywhere between right off the floor and around my ears results in no change in how "badly" it fails to disengage.


Details:
2000 Miata
Slave cylinder replaced 2000 miles ago with 949Racing unit
Master cylinder replaced 2000 miles ago with 949Racing unit
Slave cylinder replaced again 60 miles ago with Duralast unit (today)
ACT HDR4 clutch (Installed today) 1.6 flavor
Ebay lightweight flywheel (Installed today) 1.6 flavor
949Racing stainless braided extended clutch line 2000 miles ago
Amsoil Dot4 fluid
Clutch and flywheel bolts torqued to spec and triple checked.

At a loss here. Don't have another vehicle to drive at the moment.
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Old 09-13-2015, 10:17 PM   #74
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I think my 99 miata takes DOT3 fluid. Not sure if your setup is designed for that fluid?

Do you have any leaks?

Your description sounds like air or moisture in the system. The dirty fluid part sounds like it needs to be flushed. Both easy to fix. I would remove and bench bleed* the master, flush the lines between it and the slave cylinder. Then reinstall everything and bleed it correctly**.

* If you didn't bench bleed it when you replaced it, you gotta do that with a new master cylinder or any time the resevior allows it to suck air.
**Have to bleed it correctly or pedal will still suck as you describe.

How are you bleeding it? If you are one-man bleeding it, I highly recommend hooking a hose from the bleed screw that goes into a little bottle, hose end all the way in the bottle. As you bleed it, the fluid level will go above the bottom of the hose, so when you let off the pedal, it can suck in old fluid, but it can't suck in AIR. Same method for brakes too allows you to bleed/flush brakes by yourself too.
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Old 09-13-2015, 10:23 PM   #75
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Originally Posted by patsmx5 View Post
<br />How are you bleeding it?
<br />
<br /><br />
<br />I bet monk is on top jamming the rod into the cylinder.
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Old 09-13-2015, 10:30 PM   #76
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Monk smash.
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Old 09-13-2015, 10:31 PM   #77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by patsmx5 View Post
I think my 99 miata takes DOT3 fluid. Not sure if your setup is designed for that fluid?
I don't understand?

Quote:
Do you have any leaks?
No.

Quote:
Your description sounds like air or moisture in the system. The dirty fluid part sounds like it needs to be flushed.
Like i said, i did. Fluid was FAR dirtier than it should have been for the miles.

Quote:
Both easy to fix. I would remove and bench bleed* the master, flush the lines between it and the slave cylinder. Then reinstall everything and bleed it correctly**.
Did it.

Quote:
* If you didn't bench bleed it when you replaced it, you gotta do that with a new master cylinder or any time the resevior allows it to suck air.
**Have to bleed it correctly or pedal will still suck as you describe.
I bench bled it when i replaced it, worked fine with the old clutch. Or at least seemed to. Hard to tell with a worn out clutch, but at least it would disengage properly.

Quote:
How are you bleeding it? If you are one-man bleeding it, I highly recommend hooking a hose from the bleed screw that goes into a little bottle, hose end all the way in the bottle. As you bleed it, the fluid level will go above the bottom of the hose, so when you let off the pedal, it can suck in old fluid, but it can't suck in AIR. Same method for brakes too allows you to bleed/flush brakes by yourself too.
2 man, and there's a speed bleeder installed. I've replaced hydraulics on a few of my cars, including 4 Miatas.

Though... i'm starting to think that maybe i'm doing something wrong. I had chronic disengagement issues on my 95 turbo car with FM1 clutch, but the pedal was at least always consistent.


The amount of crap in the fluid was what i normally see with a bad seal somewhere. My theory is that one of the cylinders died, and the resulting debris took out the other one. Just ordered a replacement Exedy set, will be here tomorrow. Nothing like having 2.5 sets of hydraulics on your car in 2000 miles, right?


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Originally Posted by aidandj View Post
<br />
<br /><br />
<br />I bet monk is on top jamming the rod into the cylinder.
Nah, that'll be Friday.
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Old 09-13-2015, 10:32 PM   #78
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Actually no, was busy responding to non-existant house fires because people don't know the difference between a fully involved structure fire and smoke coming out of a chimney.

If I were, I would have bench bled.
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Old 09-13-2015, 10:35 PM   #79
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Quote:
Originally Posted by concealer404 View Post
The amount of crap in the fluid was what i normally see with a bad seal somewhere. My theory is that one of the cylinders died, and the resulting debris took out the other one. Just ordered a replacement Exedy set, will be here tomorrow. Nothing like having 2.5 sets of hydraulics on your car in 2000 miles, right?
You are having shitty luck with all your expensive parts.
Obvious solution is to only buy cheap things.
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Old 09-13-2015, 10:39 PM   #80
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Quote:
Originally Posted by concealer404 View Post
I don't understand?

I don't think your car takes DOT4 fluid, IE, you are using the wrong fluid.

No.



Like i said, i did. Fluid was FAR dirtier than it should have been for the miles.

If it's nasty then I'd guess you need to flush it again/better.

Did it.



I bench bled it when i replaced it, worked fine with the old clutch. Or at least seemed to. Hard to tell with a worn out clutch, but at least it would disengage properly.



2 man, and there's a speed bleeder installed. I've replaced hydraulics on a few of my cars, including 4 Miatas.

Though... i'm starting to think that maybe i'm doing something wrong. I had chronic disengagement issues on my 95 turbo car with FM1 clutch, but the pedal was at least always consistent.


The amount of crap in the fluid was what i normally see with a bad seal somewhere. My theory is that one of the cylinders died, and the resulting debris took out the other one. Just ordered a replacement Exedy set, will be here tomorrow. Nothing like having 2.5 sets of hydraulics on your car in 2000 miles, right?




Nah, that'll be Friday.
My guess is you are doing something wrong too. My guess is you got air or moisture in the system. Does it work fine when cold, but goes to **** after 20-30min of driving? If so, moisture. If **** all the time, air.
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