clutch slave help!
 

So I just got the tranny bolted back up and turned the crankshaft and wheels spin yay! now to the crappy part the shift fork is to close to put the slave back on... and the fork will not move. That's Bad I'm guessing or it just needs lots of effort because of the new PP someone help please. and I thought I wouldnt have any problems Ha

The piston in the slave will push into the cylinder with barely any force at all. Thats what Ive had to do every time I have changed my clutch/pulled motor+trans/ changed slave cylinder. It will merely force the fluid back into the reservoir.

I mean the rod wont fit between the cylinder and fork, the fork needs to be farther towards the rear of the car, but I cant push it back>?

I just want to make sure you understand what I am saying here before I move on. One picture shows the rod all the way out, it needs to be pushed in or it will not be able to be fit on there. Other pic shows how much it needs to be pushed in to fit. If you have already tried this and the fork is still too far forward, then you probably did not install the fork correctly and need to take the transmission off to re adjust it.

I guess Ill try squishin it more, maybe I f'ed up the fork install but I dont see how?

I just did mine. You should have plenty of room pushing the rod into the slave. Sure you go tthe arm on right?

well here I took some pics to show you guys.. how can I get the top bolt in?

Man I bolted mine on first then was able to put the rod in. Might have had to push in a little on the slave but dont remember a problem. Wonder if you took the cluth cylinders top off if you could push it into the cylinder? That fork does look to close to the cylinder I think. Ill be crawling under my car later today and will see what mine looks like

My guess is you put the clutch disk in backwards.

open the valve to bleed pressure; this should all you to push the rod in ever so slightly more so you can rotate it and bolt it up...


that or just use a pry bar on the clutch fork...

Sorry I couldnt get a picture but I have at least a half inch of rod between where the rod enters the cylinder to where the kind of ball on the rod starts. So probably 3/4 inch from where the rod enters the cylinder and the actual fork. Also my fork does not up against the front hole of the bell housing (wonder if you put the disk in backwards if that is what would happen)

what company made the clutch, pressure plate, and throw out?

act disc, act pp, and oem tob I put the springs towards the back of the car I could see the springs when I bolted the clutch up, it said on the disc the flywheel side

That slave is pushed waaayyy in in the pic. That's weird. It's like the PP is sticking out too much. Are you sure you have the TOB attached to the fork correctly? Either way, I'm pretty sure you're gonna have to pull the transmission to see what's amiss.

I think so too. I can tell you from experience its way easier the second time, I guess thats the good news

The slave is not supposed to be squished like that. I just replaced a miata clutch slave the other day and it was cake. Your picture does not look like cake.

Make sure the throw out bearing clip, on the clutch fork, is around the ball on the trans.

Everyone Said I had to drop the tranny again so thats what I did tonight took a grueling 3 hours just to disappoint me! The TOB and fork is correct it moves back and forth fine with the tranny unhooked! I can see the disk springs on the clutch so Its not backwards! the only thing that looks differant to me is the fingers on the PP are pointed outwards more than other peoples who post pics of their clutch but that just might be me? I took some pictures for you guys to look at I cant figure out what I did wrong? :vash:

man ... i dont know what is going on here. Is it possible that there is supposed to be shims on the pressure plate that you did not get with the clutch? I could see that making the springs stick out a bit less, thus bringing the fork in. Are you 100% positive the clutch is seated correctly? I wonder if perhaps it would have "snapped" into place had you pumped the clutch a few times (using a prybar on the fork). One time when I did a clutch, it popped loudly the first time I pumped it as everything lined up or something.

just thinking out loud, wish i could be more help

by the way, if you havn't yet, check the other forums to see if this has happened to anyone else: m.net, clubroadster, and google.

well when I had it back together the fork was to far forward, Meaning the TOB was up against the PP but why and I torqued the PP correctly followed the workshop manual and in a criss cross pattern? This stuff pisses me off lol torqued to 27 ft lbs correct? I was scared that pry the fork to make it fit! would make it fit yes but work I didnt know and everyone was saying I had to do something wrong so now I might just bolt it back up and not torque down the bellhouse bolts and seat the slave first then torque em down? I dunno though why cant stuff be easy?

that is an excellent idea. if everything is fine in there, then put it back on and then when you put the transmission back on, leave a gap at first so you can get the slave on there and then pump the clutch. If it is still a no go, maybe an adapter plate could be made to move it back a little bit. Square piece of mild with 4 holes.

If you take the Pressure plate off are the fingers still bent back or are they being forced back by the disk? Your pic number 3 shows the PP not flush with the fly wheel, thats not right. I think bad disk or labelled wrong and in backwards

Seeing the springs doesn't mean the disc is not backwards and the pp is not pulled against the flywheel in the pics. Please take it the rest of the way apart and check everything.

The thicker "hump" in the disc needs to be away from the flywheel.

As olderguy said the PP is not installed all the way.

So either you installed the disk wrong or you didnt tighten the PP down enough.

The should not be a gap here. See attachement

+1 to the PP not being pulled up flush to the flywheel.

ALso, that throwout bearing doesn't look right either. Not sure, but it appears to be installed backwards too.

throw out bearing is installed correctly you can tell by the kind of flange that connects 2 sides to the pivot arm

i figured he had loosened the PP so i didnt mention that.

The throwout bearing is mounted correctly.

Two things to check:

1) Make sure that the release arm is all the way down on the pivot point.

2) make sure that your clutch disc is installed right... the hub should be facing the pressure plate, not the flywheel.

Mine looks like this, hence why I suspect the TOB. From his pic the TOB would have to contact the PP from the "inner" circle.

http://www.finishlineperformance.com...622-16-510.jpg

And after further review, I still say his TOB is wrong. It looks "loose" on the input shaft. Like it's got a gap down at the bottom. Anybody else see what I'm talking about?

I see the gap you are talking about. Could be the wrong bearing was supplied with the clutch.

Back to basics.

What is the motor?

What is the flywheel?

What is the clutch?

We aren't trying to put the wrong clutch/disc/flywheel together, are we?

1.6 motor
bought the flywheel pp and together stated as a 1.6
so I bought an ACT 1.6 disc
and the TOB is mazda OEM
and I torqued all of the bolts to spec??

Me thinks you have the wrong TOB and a 1.8 disk. Pull that PP off and take pictures with a tape measure across everything. IE-measuring the flywheel, PP, disk, and also see if the TOB will wiggle up and down on the input shaft.

Is that an ACT PP? Extreme I guess? I have an ACT HDsitting right here, and it looks quite a bit thinner than that one. Maybe the extreme has a thicker PP body since it has a higher clamp force. Still wouldnt explain why yours isnt working like it should. Did you get a possotive click from the spring clip on the fork when it seated on the ball? I had one do something similar once and it was being held off its seat by 1/2'' or so, but it snapped in place when I first started it and pumped the clutch.

If that picture of the PP to flywheel is how it is in the car, then something is wrong. Im hoping you just took those to show inside better... or something.

Im gonna say backwards disk. Looking at mine, when its backwards it hold it off about that much, and looks similar through the hole. If its not backwards, something is hold ing it off. Tightening the PP so that it sits on the flywheel will cause the teeth on the clutch PP to stick out less, and allow the fork to move back a good bit. I say thats your problem.

Well i got those pictures of the clutch taken out and I looked over the transmission and the fork wasn't pushed all the way on the pivot point :vash: But what about the gap between the pp and flywheel? I took pictures and measured everything The flywheel was just shy of 8" along with the pp and disk and the disk has a sticker saying which is the flywheel side:hustler:

You likely didn't draw the PP up flush against the flywheel. You should put all the bolts in HAND TIGHT. Then use a criss-cross pattern and draw them in 1/2 of a turn at a time. IE- run the in by hand, then get a ratchet and socket and turn a bolt exactly 1/2 of a turn, then go to the opposite bolt, farthest away from the one you just tightened, and turn it exactly 1/2 of a turn. Then pick another bolt and repeat. Once you've done 6, repeat. Do it 42 times and it should pull up flush. Then torque the bolts all to 10 ft*lbs, again, using the same criss-cross pattern. Then 20 ft*lbs, etc in 10 ft*lb increments till you reach your target torque.

Hopefully a 1.6' er here will go measure they're clutch and make sure yours is the right size.

And I retract what I said earlier. TOB looks fine.

isnt final torque 27?

Hehe, haynes manual shows 14-19.... Mine are at like 35. Whoops. Oh well. In one of your pics the bolt isn't even drawed up flush against the PP. Look at it.

yes 27 ft / lbs. ive read the install about 5 times for the clutch job. my act ZM2-XTSS and prolite flywheel should be here thursday. this will make for a fun install. Btw did u replace any of the accesable seals?

I put in the 10 lb fly, 6 puck and rear main, new coolant plug, New TOB and pilot, input shaft seal, rear transmission seal, cas seal Might as well while you have it all off trust me it sucks taking it all right back off :giggle:

Call me crazy, but it looks like the clutch disc is too big and will hit the inside of the pressure plate wall from the pictures shown.

On a 1.8, a six puck does not go all the way to the outside diameter as shown on your 1.6. I don't have a 1.6 setup around to compare or I would check it.

Anybody?

it does look a bit on the large side, but it is hard to imagine that he would get the correct plate and not the right disc

I just went out and measured a 1.6 flywheel I have sitting in my shed, looks like the mating surface is 8" across (or more, looks like i didnt center the tape well). I think you should get in touch with someone who can measure these parts for you so that you can verify weather or not you have the right parts.

Looks big to me too. My disk has about a 1/8'' gap all the way around when layed on the PP and flywheel. That one seems to hang off the sides.

Well I know I ordered a 1.6 disc from ACT direct and the pp was purchased from someone on here with a 1.6? and when I measure the pp its a little bit over 7 3/4" and the disc is slightly under and the flywheel is right at 8", also I didn't have them lined up exactly when I took that one picture? But I dunno it seems like the disc lays perfectly on the PP:hustler:

well i took it off again and the disc definitely measures 7 3/4" and PP 7 7/8" and flywheel right at 8

But I cant really figure out how to torque the bolts correctly It takes more than 27 ft lbs to pull the PP to the flywheel? :hustler:

Only thing I could think of is the PP frozen up or in a bind. Ive never seen a faulty PP in that respect, but thats the only thing I can think of that wouldnt let the PP pull up tight to the flywheel. Maybe force the fingers on the PP down and tighten the bolts? But again, Ive never heard of this before, so I dont know. Strange problem, Im curious to see what it ends up being.

Try putting the PP on without the disk. See if it goes on flat then.

I can tighten it down flat but It takes a 1/2" ratchet?

Do the bolts thread smoothly into the flywheel holes? This is puzzling. Maybe its a manufacturing flaw, holes may be out of alignment or something. Any little thing could cause a big pain in the ass.

I can turn them in by hand smoothly then turn them with a ratchet easily til their is a gap like the first set of pics I posted, then It takes a bit of effort to pull the PP against the flywheel, but I fixed the clutch fork and I'm just gonna tighten the bolts back up as best as possible and see what happens :eek5:

Maybe thepp cover got bent a little and when you torque it some your putting it back in shape. I think if you find you have a little free movement in the front of the fork to the housing youll be okay

OK, I'm going out on a limb here, but are you sure you're using the right bolts to mount the pressure plate to the flywheel? If the bolts are too long, they will bottom out, and not tighten pressure plate down. Looks to me like, the disc might be installed backwards. Can you take a picture of the disc from the top looking down, the slimest view, viewed like it would be installed and you were looking up from the ground at it? Not sure if that is the best description.

Im using the stock pressure plate bolts and loc-tite the non permanent kind, and the disc has a sticker for the flywheel side so Im sure I have it right this time

Please don't do that. It would suck if that sucker broke loose and came through the tranny tunnel. Something is definitely off there. I second the too-long PP bolt gig. Measure the hole depth and check. threads buggered?

ps dude, you got nice pink/red grease on your carpet in that pic. Your old lady is gonna kick your ass.

Its the old pressure plate bolts? and same flywheel so I dont see why that would be wrong and I have a badass carpet cleaner :eek5:

If you put the PP on the flywheel without the disc, and you use OEM bolts, and it's still rough, the only thing that it's contacting are the dowel pins. Are any of them bent? It could be the photo, but one of them looks tweaked in one of your photos.

Please make sure you take video of this fail.

UPDATE: Well I found out the threads on the flywheel were damaged first off... and the factory clutch flywheel bolts were to long for the new PP and lightweight flywheel, and the shift fork pivot wasnt 100% on so all those together :bowrofl: its all put back together and it went back together like it should :eek5:, but now my ? is do I have to line up the starter any special way??? :hustler: