do r-package air-dam brake ducts work?
 

do they work at all, and do I want to use 2.5" or 3" brake duct hose? I'm running out of time and not going to make a splitter for this car...yet.

When you come in to town, come by Gary's. Look at his setup; which I am doing as well. Your original plan with modified dust shields will be the same thing (essentially).
As for the 2.5" to 3" - find out what Gary has, as he has nice clearance around his relocated filter and oil cooler.
R lip will work - IF the ducts are plumbed. They are crap as they are now.

Well Machismo, I know that you're skilled, with lots of experience working on "plumbing." I just have to decide if I want something where I can go 3-fingers or a fist. Both may work, but dramatically different experiences. Regardless of what I end up with, I'm going to make something out of plastic and rivets for the duct thingies.

Gary's shit points air at the friction area of the rotors, not the hub. I'll emale that ho.

Why dont you first drive your car and then decide if you need brake ducts.

spoken like a true, track veteran. The car makes 250whp...needs ducting. They all need ducting at that power level.

savington'smelteduppads.jpg

I hope the R-pack lip works, I plan on using mine. I know when I had my air filter behind it for a week I was getting nothing but straight ambient, and my N/A motor was tearing around like a raped gorilla.

I'm sure some decent ducting would do the trick. I've wondered though what happens when it rains. I'd hate to warp rotors, maybe a small S-trap would fix this, but certainly cut down on flow rate to the hubs.

i don't drive the car in the rain.

should've known....guess you don't party without lube either huh?


Stop thinking about it so much, find something that someone has done that you like, and just do it. Then I'll copy your shit.

http://www.mulsannescorner.com/audir10-PM7.jpg
http://www.mulsannescorner.com/audir10-PM8.jpg
No one has done anything I like yet. I'd like to buy the sheilds from ISC racing, but they won't make them big enough for my brakes.

I've already forgone the splitter, top fuel wing, oil pump gear, and a few other things. The brakes won't go more than a few laps without ducting.

Does everyone on the track duct their brakes?

I'll sell you some kevlar weave cheap. then you can dowatchalike.

they are designed to point at the dust sheild's "scoop" but it wouldn't hurt if you helped the equation along....

You should.....it's the great equalizer and has no conscience to your raping skills. Makes for a better and well rounded driver. :2cents:

As far as how "indepth" or "indebt" you would like to go....that is only up to YOU. Think of it this way.....Americans spend millions of dollars to invent a pen to write in weightlessness; the Russians just use pencils. Same end result - just less drama.

over 200whp, yes. Savington smoked xp10's BAD in just a few sessions, with roughly 50wtq less. I'll be above 1000* rotor temps, easily requiring proper ducting.

nazadrovia. When I get the auto-clave, I'll get more advanced.

Yes, and you'll be driving at laguna seca too.

;) Had to look that one up. He He... my Russian is a little rusty.

actually, the 3.1 at MSR is just as demanding if not worse than Laguna.

I just had a moment of brilliance on designing these out of the stock equipment. I'll call you later tonight to discuss it.

:eek5:

I've gotta duct too. I'm doing the 11" corrado fronts and adding ducts. I'll see if that takes care of the heat issues before I drop some real coin on 2pc. rotors and wilwoods.

Hustler, looking forward to seeing what your AH-HA moment was.

Right with it's huge elevation changes.



What's it matter? You're not even going to track this car anyway.

I don't know if they're that functional, but I have ducts on my car.

If I can't make these sport brakes work, I'm switching to wilwoods to run some crazy PF shit and street pads. We'll see.

there are two, dramatic elevation drops on that course. Besides, the braking is spaced-out at laguna. There are 3 back-to-back 100/75/120mph to 30mph corners back to back at Hallett. Laguna is not the hardest on brakes, there are many other's with more severity.

2.5" will be fine if everything is sealed properly.
Anyone that ever does a trackday should have duckting. It's cheap and easy and possibly the best mod you can do to your brakes short of bigbrakes.
Do it!

I don't dissagree with using ducting for the track, it's cheap and will lower the overall temps. I just think it's silly for Hustler to put them on his car.

I'm already getting squishy pedal on the street. I don't understand why its so silly. I'm not a total fucking moron on the track, I did 60-hours before the 2-year hiatus.

Relax, kneegrowth. I'm fucking with you. You're worrying about the track for this car when it hasn't even seen the track, and based on the last week of posting may not, just seems like excuses to not take it to the track.



If you're getting squishy pedal on the street your shit is broken. Flush your fluid with new stuff.

Watercooled brakes... - Viper Alley - Dodge Viper Forum
See if the link works.... I suxa at this techo crap, but same principle as what's used in Europe with their big rig races on mountain courses.
I still am a little apprehensive with water and some metals that tend to explode under conditions.

I cut a 6" length of 2.5" exhaust pipe at a 45 degree angle into 2 even pieces, and then welded it to the stock dust shields. Picked up 6ft of 300 degree hose duct (the 650 degree hose is pricey as fuck, I'll step up if I melt what I bought), hose clamps to the pipe, route it under the radiator to the mouth, sip champagne when I'm thirstay, etc.

i bought 2.5" "brake hose" and radiator shrouding from bsr about an hour ago. Now I just need to weld some shit up, drop the top, holler back "money ain't a thang."

Hasn't seen the track with this much power, correct; but it has seen the track.

I overheated my brakes just driving in the Hill Country. I could definitely see it happening at MSR, especially on the 3.1 mi course. That sharp left turn at the bottom of the hill on the new course section (CCW, near the highway) would be interesting. I could see it impacting lap times overall for sure if you have to back off of aggressive braking to save the brakes.

Brilliant! How well did it work?

It's not just how hard you brake, it's how often. Laguna has serious braking at nearly every corner; 125-50 into 2, 85-75 into 3, 115-75 into 5, 95-80 into 6, 100-40 into 8, then 95-40 into 11. All in about a minute and 40 seconds. It's not just severity, it's how damn often you're doing it. It's not the hardest braking track I go to; Calspeed's turn 3 is a 135 to 40 braking zone, but you have a solid 40 seconds before it for the brakes to cool down so it's not considered a track that's hard on brakes.

Yeah agreed. For example, I think MSR, especially for the 3.1 course, would be much harder on brakes than TWS. Like I said, brake fade is usually not a big deal for bikes so it is hard to say empirically (for sure) which is worse based on my experience; I have LOTS of laps on both in a bike (I'll be racing at TWS this weekend in fact) but essentially none in a car.

The Hill Country route I was taking when I overheated the brakes had a lot of frequent braking, including downhill, with hardly any long straights to cool the brakes back down again. More like doing continuous laps on an Auto-X course than on a track.

Actually, Hallett is the hardest local circuit on brakes. I could get my stock 1.6 brakes to fade on hp+ in 2 places there, but never at MSR on either track.

I've overheated brakes on twisty roads in Austin due to (buckle up for the logic) less-intense braking. People who pussy-foot around the track and brake to softly heat up brakes more than someone who's going faster and braking properly. There have been instances where I've had to brake after turn-1 at hallett, then had massive fade in turn 2 at low speed because I put too much heat in on the straight-away.

To make the long story short...I'll need the heat management on the first session.

Snapped some pics of my set up today since I had a chance....

Attachment 206840
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so yesterday I spoke with ISC racing and they're making a set of dust shield for me. :)

Cspence-your setup is doing next to nohting as is.
Get a shield with proper mounting for the duct and it will then be efficient.
Right now you are blowing air on a hot rotor, hardly cooling it if at all.

I thought this was the point, lmao! Jusssst kidding...this is just how the car was set up when I bought it. I'm not even sure I would need em for what I am going to use the car for, but eh, their there and not bothering anyone so they stay.

I have a set of these coming next week:
http://iscracing.net/images/0miatabrakeducts.jpg
just lean back, and open your mouth.

Like this??
http://www.dickeyschmid.com/me/AceVentura.jpg

how much hustler?

$105.

no, more like http://www.screw-paypal.com/images/snoop_dog.jpg

Whur r thos shields from?
Nevermind, need something 3" and that works with ABS.

Buy my BBK bitch and you won't have to worry about brake ducts. Comes with all the race pads YOU'RE going to need.

I would, but your shit is too expensive.

Who the FUCK needs brakes? I ain't driving to stop, I'm driving to go places!

I need to get a decent setup before I worry about keeping them cool.

Drive like a girl = no need for brakes.
Drive like a man = need BBK w/ducting.

Simple as that.

Price is negotiable.

you still crack rotors don't you...?:giggle:

I took the factory "scoop" in the dust shield, did some snipping to bend it out, then extended it a few inches with some aluminum sheet and rivets. Now the scoop isn't shadowed by the wheel, instead it sticks into the air stream.

I did it to one side first, then did some brake-boosting, then stopped and compared left and right rotor temps with an IR thermometer. I got significantly lower temps.

Read it here from back in 2004, with pictures, bitches:
brake scoop idea - MX-5 Miata Forum

bichezz

I have no ducting as of yet... if I still crack them after that, I'm either fast or brake too much - probably the latter.

I have a pair of those Mazdacomp/SpeedSource brake ducts sitting in a box collecting dust :(
Something tells me they'll be useless with my 12.5" Brembo rotors. Should I sell them?

Pics?

Attachment 203488

Attachment 203489

Hmm, that doesn't look 3".