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Old 04-09-2009, 10:31 AM   #1
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Default do r-package air-dam brake ducts work?

do they work at all, and do I want to use 2.5" or 3" brake duct hose? I'm running out of time and not going to make a splitter for this car...yet.
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Old 04-09-2009, 10:37 AM   #2
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When you come in to town, come by Gary's. Look at his setup; which I am doing as well. Your original plan with modified dust shields will be the same thing (essentially).
As for the 2.5" to 3" - find out what Gary has, as he has nice clearance around his relocated filter and oil cooler.
R lip will work - IF the ducts are plumbed. They are crap as they are now.
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Old 04-09-2009, 10:43 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Machismo View Post
When you come in to town, come by Gary's. Look at his setup; which I am doing as well. Your original plan with modified dust shields will be the same thing (essentially).
As for the 2.5" to 3" - find out what Gary has, as he has nice clearance around his relocated filter and oil cooler.
R lip will work - IF the ducts are plumbed. They are crap as they are now.
Well Machismo, I know that you're skilled, with lots of experience working on "plumbing." I just have to decide if I want something where I can go 3-fingers or a fist. Both may work, but dramatically different experiences. Regardless of what I end up with, I'm going to make something out of plastic and rivets for the duct thingies.

Gary's **** points air at the friction area of the rotors, not the hub. I'll emale that ho.
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Old 04-09-2009, 11:04 AM   #4
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Why dont you first drive your car and then decide if you need brake ducts.
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Old 04-09-2009, 11:11 AM   #5
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Why dont you first drive your car and then decide if you need brake ducts.
spoken like a true, track veteran. The car makes 250whp...needs ducting. They all need ducting at that power level.

savington'smelteduppads.jpg
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Old 04-09-2009, 11:17 AM   #6
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I hope the R-pack lip works, I plan on using mine. I know when I had my air filter behind it for a week I was getting nothing but straight ambient, and my N/A motor was tearing around like a raped gorilla.

I'm sure some decent ducting would do the trick. I've wondered though what happens when it rains. I'd hate to warp rotors, maybe a small S-trap would fix this, but certainly cut down on flow rate to the hubs.
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Old 04-09-2009, 11:20 AM   #7
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i don't drive the car in the rain.
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Old 04-09-2009, 11:22 AM   #8
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should've known....guess you don't party without lube either huh?


Stop thinking about it so much, find something that someone has done that you like, and just do it. Then I'll copy your ****.
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Old 04-09-2009, 11:45 AM   #9
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should've known....guess you don't party without lube either huh?


Stop thinking about it so much, find something that someone has done that you like, and just do it. Then I'll copy your ****.


No one has done anything I like yet. I'd like to buy the sheilds from ISC racing, but they won't make them big enough for my brakes.

I've already forgone the splitter, top fuel wing, oil pump gear, and a few other things. The brakes won't go more than a few laps without ducting.
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Old 04-09-2009, 11:49 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hustler View Post
spoken like a true, track veteran. The car makes 250whp...needs ducting. They all need ducting at that power level.

savington'smelteduppads.jpg

Does everyone on the track duct their brakes?
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Old 04-09-2009, 11:49 AM   #11
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I'll sell you some kevlar weave cheap. then you can dowatchalike.
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Old 04-09-2009, 11:49 AM   #12
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they are designed to point at the dust sheild's "scoop" but it wouldn't hurt if you helped the equation along....
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Old 04-09-2009, 11:57 AM   #13
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i don't drive the car in the rain.
You should.....it's the great equalizer and has no conscience to your raping skills. Makes for a better and well rounded driver.

As far as how "indepth" or "indebt" you would like to go....that is only up to YOU. Think of it this way.....Americans spend millions of dollars to invent a pen to write in weightlessness; the Russians just use pencils. Same end result - just less drama.
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Old 04-09-2009, 11:59 AM   #14
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Does everyone on the track duct their brakes?
over 200whp, yes. Savington smoked xp10's BAD in just a few sessions, with roughly 50wtq less. I'll be above 1000* rotor temps, easily requiring proper ducting.
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Old 04-09-2009, 12:00 PM   #15
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Quote:
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You should.....it's the great equalizer and has no conscience to your raping skills. Makes for a better and well rounded driver.

As far as how "indepth" or "indebt" you would like to go....that is only up to YOU. Think of it this way.....Americans spend millions of dollars to invent a pen to write in weightlessness; the Russians just use pencils. Same end result - just less drama.
nazadrovia. When I get the auto-clave, I'll get more advanced.
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Old 04-09-2009, 12:12 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hustler View Post
over 200whp, yes. Savington smoked xp10's BAD in just a few sessions, with roughly 50wtq less. I'll be above 1000* rotor temps, easily requiring proper ducting.


Yes, and you'll be driving at laguna seca too.
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Old 04-09-2009, 12:14 PM   #17
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Had to look that one up. He He... my Russian is a little rusty.
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Old 04-09-2009, 12:28 PM   #18
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Yes, and you'll be driving at laguna seca too.
actually, the 3.1 at MSR is just as demanding if not worse than Laguna.
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Old 04-09-2009, 12:49 PM   #19
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Had to look that one up. He He... my Russian is a little rusty.
I just had a moment of brilliance on designing these out of the stock equipment. I'll call you later tonight to discuss it.

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Old 04-09-2009, 01:05 PM   #20
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I've gotta duct too. I'm doing the 11" corrado fronts and adding ducts. I'll see if that takes care of the heat issues before I drop some real coin on 2pc. rotors and wilwoods.

Hustler, looking forward to seeing what your AH-HA moment was.
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