do r-package air-dam brake ducts work? - Page 2 - Miata Turbo Forum - Boost cars, acquire cats.

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Old 04-09-2009, 01:10 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hustler View Post
actually, the 3.1 at MSR is just as demanding if not worse than Laguna.


Right with it's huge elevation changes.



What's it matter? You're not even going to track this car anyway.
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Old 04-09-2009, 01:14 PM   #22
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I don't know if they're that functional, but I have ducts on my car.
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Old 04-09-2009, 01:18 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by cueball1 View Post
I've gotta duct too. I'm doing the 11" corrado fronts and adding ducts. I'll see if that takes care of the heat issues before I drop some real coin on 2pc. rotors and wilwoods.

Hustler, looking forward to seeing what your AH-HA moment was.
If I can't make these sport brakes work, I'm switching to wilwoods to run some crazy PF **** and street pads. We'll see.
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Old 04-09-2009, 01:21 PM   #24
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Right with it's huge elevation changes.



What's it matter? You're not even going to track this car anyway.
there are two, dramatic elevation drops on that course. Besides, the braking is spaced-out at laguna. There are 3 back-to-back 100/75/120mph to 30mph corners back to back at Hallett. Laguna is not the hardest on brakes, there are many other's with more severity.
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Old 04-09-2009, 01:24 PM   #25
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2.5" will be fine if everything is sealed properly.
Anyone that ever does a trackday should have duckting. It's cheap and easy and possibly the best mod you can do to your brakes short of bigbrakes.
Do it!
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Old 04-09-2009, 01:31 PM   #26
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I don't dissagree with using ducting for the track, it's cheap and will lower the overall temps. I just think it's silly for Hustler to put them on his car.
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Old 04-09-2009, 01:36 PM   #27
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I don't dissagree with using ducting for the track, it's cheap and will lower the overall temps. I just think it's silly for Hustler to put them on his car.
I'm already getting squishy pedal on the street. I don't understand why its so silly. I'm not a total ******* moron on the track, I did 60-hours before the 2-year hiatus.
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Old 04-09-2009, 01:45 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by hustler View Post
I'm already getting squishy pedal on the street. I don't understand why its so silly. I'm not a total ******* moron on the track, I did 60-hours before the 2-year hiatus.


Relax, kneegrowth. I'm ******* with you. You're worrying about the track for this car when it hasn't even seen the track, and based on the last week of posting may not, just seems like excuses to not take it to the track.



If you're getting squishy pedal on the street your **** is broken. Flush your fluid with new stuff.
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Old 04-09-2009, 02:00 PM   #29
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Watercooled brakes... - Viper Alley - Dodge Viper Forum
See if the link works.... I suxa at this techo crap, but same principle as what's used in Europe with their big rig races on mountain courses.
I still am a little apprehensive with water and some metals that tend to explode under conditions.
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Old 04-09-2009, 02:08 PM   #30
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I cut a 6" length of 2.5" exhaust pipe at a 45 degree angle into 2 even pieces, and then welded it to the stock dust shields. Picked up 6ft of 300 degree hose duct (the 650 degree hose is pricey as ****, I'll step up if I melt what I bought), hose clamps to the pipe, route it under the radiator to the mouth, sip champagne when I'm thirstay, etc.
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Old 04-09-2009, 03:20 PM   #31
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i bought 2.5" "brake hose" and radiator shrouding from bsr about an hour ago. Now I just need to weld some **** up, drop the top, holler back "money ain't a thang."
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Old 04-09-2009, 04:37 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BenR View Post
...You're worrying about the track for this car when it hasn't even seen the track...
Hasn't seen the track with this much power, correct; but it has seen the track.
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Old 04-09-2009, 06:35 PM   #33
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I overheated my brakes just driving in the Hill Country. I could definitely see it happening at MSR, especially on the 3.1 mi course. That sharp left turn at the bottom of the hill on the new course section (CCW, near the highway) would be interesting. I could see it impacting lap times overall for sure if you have to back off of aggressive braking to save the brakes.
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Old 04-09-2009, 06:38 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Savington View Post
I cut a 6" length of 2.5" exhaust pipe at a 45 degree angle into 2 even pieces, and then welded it to the stock dust shields. Picked up 6ft of 300 degree hose duct (the 650 degree hose is pricey as ****, I'll step up if I melt what I bought), hose clamps to the pipe, route it under the radiator to the mouth, sip champagne when I'm thirstay, etc.
Brilliant! How well did it work?
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Old 04-09-2009, 08:03 PM   #35
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It's not just how hard you brake, it's how often. Laguna has serious braking at nearly every corner; 125-50 into 2, 85-75 into 3, 115-75 into 5, 95-80 into 6, 100-40 into 8, then 95-40 into 11. All in about a minute and 40 seconds. It's not just severity, it's how damn often you're doing it. It's not the hardest braking track I go to; Calspeed's turn 3 is a 135 to 40 braking zone, but you have a solid 40 seconds before it for the brakes to cool down so it's not considered a track that's hard on brakes.
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Old 04-09-2009, 08:16 PM   #36
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Yeah agreed. For example, I think MSR, especially for the 3.1 course, would be much harder on brakes than TWS. Like I said, brake fade is usually not a big deal for bikes so it is hard to say empirically (for sure) which is worse based on my experience; I have LOTS of laps on both in a bike (I'll be racing at TWS this weekend in fact) but essentially none in a car.

The Hill Country route I was taking when I overheated the brakes had a lot of frequent braking, including downhill, with hardly any long straights to cool the brakes back down again. More like doing continuous laps on an Auto-X course than on a track.
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Old 04-10-2009, 04:38 PM   #37
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Actually, Hallett is the hardest local circuit on brakes. I could get my stock 1.6 brakes to fade on hp+ in 2 places there, but never at MSR on either track.

I've overheated brakes on twisty roads in Austin due to (buckle up for the logic) less-intense braking. People who *****-foot around the track and brake to softly heat up brakes more than someone who's going faster and braking properly. There have been instances where I've had to brake after turn-1 at hallett, then had massive fade in turn 2 at low speed because I put too much heat in on the straight-away.

To make the long story short...I'll need the heat management on the first session.
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Old 04-10-2009, 10:30 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cspence View Post
I don't know if they're that functional, but I have ducts on my car.
Snapped some pics of my set up today since I had a chance....

DSC03312.jpg?t=1239413129
DSC03313.jpg?t=1239413384
DSC03314.jpg?t=1239413407
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Old 04-11-2009, 12:02 PM   #39
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so yesterday I spoke with ISC racing and they're making a set of dust shield for me.
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Old 04-11-2009, 02:45 PM   #40
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Cspence-your setup is doing next to nohting as is.
Get a shield with proper mounting for the duct and it will then be efficient.
Right now you are blowing air on a hot rotor, hardly cooling it if at all.
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