sell the ------ frame rails and get door bars. I'll be in Houston in January if you want to go for a ride...in my lap.

This thread is going to cost me more money.
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How long after gospeed gets his door bars do we wait before seam-welding our cars?

About 6 months.

What ever happened to this?

https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/t39221/

What happened? Big suprise. The newb with 23 total posts proposing building them never came through.

I still think someone with a tubing bender could reproduce these very easily for dirt cheap.

If I knew someone with a tubing bender locally i'd make them my damn self.

Welp...glad to hear that you're a happy camper now. I am also glad you're liking the Ultrashields and the "new" seat bracket design. After mocking the Lemon's and doing mine, I can now drive for more than an hour without the notorious butt knuckle cramp.

Roll bar or door bars?

Pick one.

Rollbar first

rollbar first since doorbars arent gonna to save your life

Why not have the door bars and the frame rails? It would help triangulate the center of the chassis.

Good deal...working internship on north side...can meet for "lunch."


lmao at mgeoffriau and cueball. Ya'll's some mean fucks. :bowrofl:

Nothing like laughing out loud in the library. People studying for finals look like they wanna dismember me.

I actually ordered a set of these to make them myself $52.99

Jegster 940008 Jegster Pro Street Door Bars

They would work really nicely I think. Might even create a slightly better ergonomic installation than hard dog if done right.

I still have them. But in the end I got lazy and ordered directly from Hard Dog. I needed a harness anyway so I added door bars to the order. So I have the Jegs bars just sitting in the shop.

Bob

I hav both. I think they complement each other nicely.

Bob

What he said.

I may be interested in buying those off you some day if they continue to sit around. I'd like to put in the door bars at the same time that I finally seam weld the door sills. Did you ever test fit them or anything to see how they really fit?

I would think only if you had the butterfly brace to tie the rails together. Otherwise there is nothing additional triangulating the two frame rails for horizontal plane stiffening.

I kind of layer them up next to the car. but to really fit them in place good would require iterative cutting off of the ends and hoping to nut cut too much off in the process. I never got around to that and they are still uncut.

Bob

In my professional opinion as a chassis structural engineer a flat plate on the bottom of the car will do next to nothing for stiffness. a flat plate to resist parrelelogramming like where one rail shifts forward and the other one shifts back will also do next to nothing in this case as well because I don’t thing that is a weak mode for the chassis to flex in.

Closing the bottom of the transmission tunnel in a structural way such that it makes the trans tunnel behave like a big tube rather than an open channel will do quite a lot. But you still have that torsion bar concept going on like where the material in the middle of a torsion bar adds minimal torsional stiffness. Hollow bar and a solid bar of the same OD have very similar torsional stiffness and yet the hollow one is ¼ the weight. The trans tunnel being in the center of the car isn’t as effective as material further away from the centroid like near the sills.

The stiffness that the FM butterfly adds to the chassis is mostly from its effectiveness at closing off the bottom of the trans tunnel making it behave like a tube. The problem I see is it could be designed allot better and be lighter than what it is to do this. It needs to bolt to the car near the edge of the tunnel not out by the frame rails. The later model factory braces are much better at doing this than the FM peace. I saw it as way to much weight for the benefit.

Bob