Suspension, Brakes, Drivetrain discuss the wondrous effects of boost and your miata...
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by:

Drag racing setup

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 12-13-2017, 06:50 PM
  #81  
Retired Mech Design Engr
iTrader: (3)
 
DNMakinson's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Seneca, SC
Posts: 5,009
Total Cats: 857
Default

Originally Posted by ctdrftna
my track never checked for a loop, but yeah you should have a driveshaft loop. I think If you just made a loop to enclose a section of the PPF it would be ok. 23x8x13 MH is what you want. the 13's will fit over stock 1.8l brakes.
Some say yes, Some say no.

Specific wheels that will? I am looking at AR95 Estrella, 13 x 5.5 for use with P205/60-13 for DOT rated wrinkle wall.

I looked at clearance between my 15" rim, and there is not 1" of space.
DNMakinson is offline  
Old 12-13-2017, 07:30 PM
  #82  
Senior Member
 
LownSlow616's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Grand Rapids, MI
Posts: 504
Total Cats: -23
Default

Exactly. I originally wanted to buy 13" mickey thompsons but couldn't find any 4x100 13x8 wheels that have an offset that will fit. Which would be around +25 or +35. Couldn't even find cheap steelies
LownSlow616 is offline  
Old 12-15-2017, 05:30 AM
  #83  
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
 
ctdrftna's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Cromwell CT
Posts: 1,146
Total Cats: 56
Default

gotta jack up the rear, if you can find a spinwerks dealer, they can make you anything you want at a reasonable price. Bisimoto used to sell them, also these weld knock off's would work.

Also look up VMS Modulo wheel 13x8 +20
ctdrftna is offline  
Old 12-15-2017, 07:43 AM
  #84  
Moderator
iTrader: (12)
 
sixshooter's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Tampa, Florida
Posts: 20,652
Total Cats: 3,011
Default

Regarding jacking up the rear, when under load during weight transfer you want the CV axles to be perfectly straight with no bends or you will break them.
sixshooter is offline  
Old 12-16-2017, 05:26 PM
  #85  
Retired Mech Design Engr
iTrader: (3)
 
DNMakinson's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Seneca, SC
Posts: 5,009
Total Cats: 857
Default

I exchanged a few emails with Bill Diamond of Diamond Race Wheels. The drop well on 13" wheels is 11.25". I measured my 1.8 brakes to be exactly that. I am not willing to grind my calipers, or run a wheel that is outside the fender. So... no go on 13's.
DNMakinson is offline  
Old 12-16-2017, 06:52 PM
  #86  
Elite Member
iTrader: (2)
 
miata2fast's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Dover, FL
Posts: 3,143
Total Cats: 174
Default

I really think you would be happy with the 15” low pro tire, but if you really think you need to try a 13” get a set of rear 1.6 rotors and caliper brackets. It’s cheap, and not a ridiculous amount of work to convert for a weekend of drag racing, then convert back.
miata2fast is offline  
Old 12-16-2017, 09:08 PM
  #87  
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
 
ctdrftna's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Cromwell CT
Posts: 1,146
Total Cats: 56
Default

My friends 13" spinwerks cleared my 1.8l brakes, I may have ran a 10mm spacer but I can't remember. I did pull my mtuned brackets and sport rotors. It was a quick swap.
ctdrftna is offline  
Old 12-17-2017, 09:15 AM
  #88  
Retired Mech Design Engr
iTrader: (3)
 
DNMakinson's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Seneca, SC
Posts: 5,009
Total Cats: 857
Default

Originally Posted by miata2fast
I really think you would be happy with the 15” low pro tire, but if you really think you need to try a 13” get a set of rear 1.6 rotors and caliper brackets. It’s cheap, and not a ridiculous amount of work to convert for a weekend of drag racing, then convert back.
I hear you. I also did a search of "site:miataturbo.net rota rb" and found that this subject has been discussed many times.

Again, my only issue is that I'm trying to both see what my best ET could be (15's perfect for that) and run True Street class, which eliminates the 15's as they are not DOT.

As I'm totally ignorant on 1.6, etc... Can I re-mount my 1.8 calipers onto the 1.6 brackets and run them with 1.6 rotors? I bet @curly knows. If so, yes that would be a quick and easy fix.
DNMakinson is offline  
Old 12-17-2017, 09:37 AM
  #89  
Moderator
iTrader: (12)
 
sixshooter's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Tampa, Florida
Posts: 20,652
Total Cats: 3,011
Default

People remove and ditch 1.6 setups to upgrade for 1.8 all the time. It shouldn't be hard to come up with the calipers and brackets and rotors for the front. The rotating Mass and static Mass will be much better for you.
sixshooter is offline  
Old 12-17-2017, 09:45 AM
  #90  
Elite Member
iTrader: (2)
 
miata2fast's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Dover, FL
Posts: 3,143
Total Cats: 174
Default

I converted to 1.6 for the reduced rotating mass. During the conversion, I noted the calipers were the same. I did note oddly enough that the 1.6 calipers were swapped left and right for some reason. Could have been brought to me backwards.
miata2fast is offline  
Old 12-17-2017, 10:06 AM
  #91  
Retired Mech Design Engr
iTrader: (3)
 
DNMakinson's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Seneca, SC
Posts: 5,009
Total Cats: 857
Default

Originally Posted by sixshooter
People remove and ditch 1.6 setups to upgrade for 1.8 all the time. It shouldn't be hard to come up with the calipers and brackets and rotors for the front. The rotating Mass and static Mass will be much better for you.
We are discussing the rear at this time.
DNMakinson is offline  
Old 12-17-2017, 12:14 PM
  #92  
Cpt. Slow
iTrader: (25)
 
curly's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Oregon City, OR
Posts: 14,189
Total Cats: 1,135
Default


I know when upgrading the fronts you have to put the right bracket on the left and vise versa. I forget if the rear is the same, but calipers are all the same from 90-05, minus sport brakes. Just keep brackets paired with rotors and pads. So if you want 1.6 stuff, just grab 1.6 brackets, rotors, and pads.

you could always go crazy like the above pic.
curly is offline  
Old 12-17-2017, 12:55 PM
  #93  
Moderator
iTrader: (12)
 
sixshooter's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Tampa, Florida
Posts: 20,652
Total Cats: 3,011
Default

Originally Posted by DNMakinson
We are discussing the rear at this time.
Oops.

Speaking of heavy things, here's one of my mechanics with a steel shear we rent.
Attached Thumbnails Drag racing setup-20171205_130634.jpg  
sixshooter is offline  
Old 12-21-2017, 10:28 AM
  #94  
Retired Mech Design Engr
iTrader: (3)
 
DNMakinson's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Seneca, SC
Posts: 5,009
Total Cats: 857
Default

Originally Posted by curly

I know when upgrading the fronts you have to put the right bracket on the left and vise versa. I forget if the rear is the same, but calipers are all the same from 90-05, minus sport brakes. Just keep brackets paired with rotors and pads. So if you want 1.6 stuff, just grab 1.6 brackets, rotors, and pads.

you could always go crazy like the above pic.
@curly, I just got in the 1.6 rear pads. I cannot see any reason that I would not be able to use my 1.8 pads on the 1.6 rotors. Do you know something I don't? I'm thinking I should just return these.

EDIT: I'd say that makes sense, now that I think about it.
Or is it just not a good idea to swap rotors on used pads?
I'll keep all my pads and rotors paired up.

In other news, I ordered rotors and 13" rims, getting some brackets.

Rims easily available are:

Konig Incident (13 x 5.5 ET 38), which I purchased
Americcan Racing (13 x 5.5 ET 35)
Pacer 83B (IIRC) in steel (13 x 5.5 ET 35), which I likely should have purchased due to cost and better match to the Compact Spare front wheels I have.

Last edited by DNMakinson; 12-21-2017 at 10:33 AM. Reason: Answered own question.
DNMakinson is offline  
Old 12-21-2017, 11:17 AM
  #95  
Elite Member
iTrader: (2)
 
miata2fast's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Dover, FL
Posts: 3,143
Total Cats: 174
Default

Why only 5.5” wide?
miata2fast is offline  
Old 12-21-2017, 11:20 AM
  #96  
VladiTuned
iTrader: (76)
 
18psi's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 35,821
Total Cats: 3,481
Default

5.5 is a super narrow wheel, what do you plan to fit onto it?
18psi is offline  
Old 12-21-2017, 11:38 AM
  #97  
Retired Mech Design Engr
iTrader: (3)
 
DNMakinson's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Seneca, SC
Posts: 5,009
Total Cats: 857
Default

DOT certified M&H Street and Strip Biased Ply. Recommended rim is 6.00, John at M&H says +/-1" OK with preference to - over +.



DNMakinson is offline  
Old 12-21-2017, 11:39 AM
  #98  
VladiTuned
iTrader: (76)
 
18psi's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 35,821
Total Cats: 3,481
Default

wow that's pretty interesting. really curious to see what they'll do to your ET
18psi is offline  
Old 12-21-2017, 11:45 AM
  #99  
Elite Member
iTrader: (2)
 
miata2fast's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Dover, FL
Posts: 3,143
Total Cats: 174
Default

I think that is a good call on your wheel and tire choice. Really looking forward to the results.
miata2fast is offline  
Old 12-21-2017, 11:48 AM
  #100  
Retired Mech Design Engr
iTrader: (3)
 
DNMakinson's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Seneca, SC
Posts: 5,009
Total Cats: 857
Default

It's not their stickiest compound, like a cheater slick, but should be fine with my low power. I can almost put full power on the 225 G-Force on street asphalt, so I'm thinking these should work well.
DNMakinson is offline  


Quick Reply: Drag racing setup



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 05:46 AM.