Some say yes, Some say no.

Specific wheels that will? I am looking at AR95 Estrella, 13 x 5.5 for use with P205/60-13 for DOT rated wrinkle wall.

I looked at clearance between my 15" rim, and there is not 1" of space.

 

Exactly. I originally wanted to buy 13" mickey thompsons but couldn't find any 4x100 13x8 wheels that have an offset that will fit. Which would be around +25 or +35. Couldn't even find cheap steelies

 

gotta jack up the rear, if you can find a spinwerks dealer, they can make you anything you want at a reasonable price. Bisimoto used to sell them, also these weld knock off's would work.

Also look up VMS Modulo wheel 13x8 +20

 

Regarding jacking up the rear, when under load during weight transfer you want the CV axles to be perfectly straight with no bends or you will break them.

 

I exchanged a few emails with Bill Diamond of Diamond Race Wheels. The drop well on 13" wheels is 11.25". I measured my 1.8 brakes to be exactly that. I am not willing to grind my calipers, or run a wheel that is outside the fender. So... no go on 13's.

 

I really think you would be happy with the 15” low pro tire, but if you really think you need to try a 13” get a set of rear 1.6 rotors and caliper brackets. It’s cheap, and not a ridiculous amount of work to convert for a weekend of drag racing, then convert back.

 

My friends 13" spinwerks cleared my 1.8l brakes, I may have ran a 10mm spacer but I can't remember. I did pull my mtuned brackets and sport rotors. It was a quick swap.

 

I hear you. I also did a search of "site:miataturbo.net rota rb" and found that this subject has been discussed many times.

Again, my only issue is that I'm trying to both see what my best ET could be (15's perfect for that) and run True Street class, which eliminates the 15's as they are not DOT.

As I'm totally ignorant on 1.6, etc... Can I re-mount my 1.8 calipers onto the 1.6 brackets and run them with 1.6 rotors? I bet @curly knows. If so, yes that would be a quick and easy fix.

 

People remove and ditch 1.6 setups to upgrade for 1.8 all the time. It shouldn't be hard to come up with the calipers and brackets and rotors for the front. The rotating Mass and static Mass will be much better for you.

 

I converted to 1.6 for the reduced rotating mass. During the conversion, I noted the calipers were the same. I did note oddly enough that the 1.6 calipers were swapped left and right for some reason. Could have been brought to me backwards.

 

We are discussing the rear at this time.

 

I know when upgrading the fronts you have to put the right bracket on the left and vise versa. I forget if the rear is the same, but calipers are all the same from 90-05, minus sport brakes. Just keep brackets paired with rotors and pads. So if you want 1.6 stuff, just grab 1.6 brackets, rotors, and pads.

you could always go crazy like the above pic.

 

Oops.

Speaking of heavy things, here's one of my mechanics with a steel shear we rent.

 

@curly, I just got in the 1.6 rear pads. I cannot see any reason that I would not be able to use my 1.8 pads on the 1.6 rotors. Do you know something I don't? I'm thinking I should just return these.

EDIT: I'd say that makes sense, now that I think about it.
Or is it just not a good idea to swap rotors on used pads?
I'll keep all my pads and rotors paired up.

In other news, I ordered rotors and 13" rims, getting some brackets.

Rims easily available are:

Konig Incident (13 x 5.5 ET 38), which I purchased
Americcan Racing (13 x 5.5 ET 35)
Pacer 83B (IIRC) in steel (13 x 5.5 ET 35), which I likely should have purchased due to cost and better match to the Compact Spare front wheels I have.

 

Why only 5.5” wide?

 

5.5 is a super narrow wheel, what do you plan to fit onto it?

 

DOT certified M&H Street and Strip Biased Ply. Recommended rim is 6.00, John at M&H says +/-1" OK with preference to - over +.

 

wow that's pretty interesting. really curious to see what they'll do to your ET

 

I think that is a good call on your wheel and tire choice. Really looking forward to the results.

 

It's not their stickiest compound, like a cheater slick, but should be fine with my low power. I can almost put full power on the 225 G-Force on street asphalt, so I'm thinking these should work well.