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Old 10-21-2015, 02:15 AM   #1
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Default Front UCA Bushing Question

So I'm trying to swap out the front UCA bushings with offset ones to gain more camber. Of course the upper ball joint is not coming apart regardless of how much hammering I do on it. If I just pull the long bolt and rotate the control arm outward, can I get the bushings out of the arm while it's still on the car? They are the Energy Suspension bushings, not stock. I don't remember if I had to press them in or not...

If not, any tips on getting that ball joint out of the upright?
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Old 10-21-2015, 01:55 PM   #2
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You might be able to grt them out that way if you pull the shock as well, yeah. Otherwise, go to the auto store and rent a ball joint popper or get a pickle fork.
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Old 10-21-2015, 02:23 PM   #3
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Pickle fork if you need to, but I don't think the ES bushings are a press-fit so you should be able to get them out with the UCA still on the car.

YMMV
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Old 10-21-2015, 02:44 PM   #4
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Yes, but you will hate yourself after trying to press out ES bushings, press in delrin, ream out the derin to slide sleeves in, and drill the bushings for lockpins. A pickle fork and a new grease boot is way, way easier.
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Old 10-21-2015, 09:17 PM   #5
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Screw the pickle fork. 3/4" Forged Ball Joint Separator

No screwed up boot, no struggle. Just loosen the nut to the end and tap this thing on and give here a few cranks and they pop right out. Just disregard the instructions though, removing the nut completely results in getting a control arm shaped bruise when the arm rockets out under tension.
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Old 10-22-2015, 02:42 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by Leafy View Post
Screw the pickle fork. 3/4" Forged Ball Joint Separator

No screwed up boot, no struggle. Just loosen the nut to the end and tap this thing on and give here a few cranks and they pop right out. Just disregard the instructions though, removing the nut completely results in getting a control arm shaped bruise when the arm rockets out under tension.
Thanks dudes. I actually have one of these, but couldn't get a good hold on the bolt with it. Didn't think about using the nut also. I'll try that, then pickle fork.
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Old 10-22-2015, 10:28 PM   #7
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Thanks dudes. I actually have one of these, but couldn't get a good hold on the bolt with it. Didn't think about using the nut also. I'll try that, then pickle fork.
I had to put the jack under the A-arm and raise it a little, to get even spacing around the ball joint so it would slide all the way on.
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Old 10-27-2015, 07:52 PM   #8
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Got them both off - had to use the pickle fork on both though. I was starting to bend the Harbor Freight tool with the amount of force in the bolt...

One more question for you all: I bought the Whiteline offset bushings. Do I need to drill these for a zerk, and/or do I need to pin them in the UCA with a screw?

These guys claim they do not need to be re-greased:

Whiteline urethane spec miata offset bushings [006-KCA452] - $62.50 : Advanced Autosports, Miata Race Parts, Spec Miata and TRANS AM Race Car Sales, Service, Build & Rentals Support in Midwest
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Old 10-28-2015, 02:01 AM   #9
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Good luck installing those whiteline bushings. I've had a set in my garage sitting here for about a year or two and I had so much trouble installing them in my spare UCA set, I just set them to the side.
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Old 10-28-2015, 02:39 AM   #10
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Good luck installing those whiteline bushings. I've had a set in my garage sitting here for about a year or two and I had so much trouble installing them in my spare UCA set, I just set them to the side.
Are yours the yellow ones with a lip on both ends? I think they redesigned them recently. Mine are black, and do not have a lip on either end.
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Old 10-28-2015, 10:01 AM   #11
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Black, no lip
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Old 10-28-2015, 04:07 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nate99 View Post
Got them both off - had to use the pickle fork on both though. I was starting to bend the Harbor Freight tool with the amount of force in the bolt...

One more question for you all: I bought the Whiteline offset bushings. Do I need to drill these for a zerk, and/or do I need to pin them in the UCA with a screw?

These guys claim they do not need to be re-greased:

Whiteline urethane spec miata offset bushings [006-KCA452] - $62.50 : Advanced Autosports, Miata Race Parts, Spec Miata and TRANS AM Race Car Sales, Service, Build & Rentals Support in Midwest

I would definitely pin them, or somehow keep them from rotating.

I would highly recommend greasing them, even though they say you don't have to. It will make them last much longer if they are greased.
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Old 10-29-2015, 04:10 AM   #13
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I would definitely pin them, or somehow keep them from rotating.

I would highly recommend greasing them, even though they say you don't have to. It will make them last much longer if they are greased.
I'm greasing only between the inner metal sleeve and the polyurethane, correct? Not the metal outer sleeve and the control arm?

I will see if I can pin them with the zerk fitting.
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Old 10-29-2015, 10:11 AM   #14
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Originally Posted by Nate99 View Post
I'm greasing only between the inner metal sleeve and the polyurethane, correct? Not the metal outer sleeve and the control arm?

I will see if I can pin them with the zerk fitting.
correct. the outer metal sleeve presses into the control arm, you couldnt grease there if you wanted to.

I pinned mine with the zerk, kill 2 birds with one stone. the only concern was strength of using a zerk as a pin. so far no issues. I did the lowers on mine, but this may give you an idea.

https://www.miataturbo.net/build-thr...9/#post1193050

edit- hey were both in phx. im on the far east side, AJ actually.
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Old 11-02-2015, 10:04 PM   #15
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Jay, you were right, they were a pain to get in. I ended up turning the OD down by .005" or so on a lathe, and still had to use a shop press to get them in. The bushings were measuring .010-.015" over the ID of the control arm, which I thought was a little much for a press fit.

Quote:
Originally Posted by hi_im_sean View Post
correct. the outer metal sleeve presses into the control arm, you couldnt grease there if you wanted to.

I pinned mine with the zerk, kill 2 birds with one stone. the only concern was strength of using a zerk as a pin. so far no issues. I did the lowers on mine, but this may give you an idea.

https://www.miataturbo.net/build-thr...9/#post1193050

edit- hey were both in phx. im on the far east side, AJ actually.
Thanks Sean. I did end up using the zerks to pin the bushings, but with that much of a press fit, I kind of doubt they're going anywhere regardless. You ever make it out to any of the local NASA events?
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Old 11-02-2015, 10:45 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nate99 View Post
Jay, you were right, they were a pain to get in. I ended up turning the OD down by .005" or so on a lathe, and still had to use a shop press to get them in. The bushings were measuring .010-.015" over the ID of the control arm, which I thought was a little much for a press fit.



Thanks Sean. I did end up using the zerks to pin the bushings, but with that much of a press fit, I kind of doubt they're going anywhere regardless. You ever make it out to any of the local NASA events?
10-15 thou is waayyy over a press fit for metal-metal. Thats kinda crappy actually, should be 2-3 thou for a thinish walled tube like the bushing sleeve.

I run with ProAutosports, havnt been to a nasa thing yet, pro was a lot cheaper last I checked, and less finicky. This time of year, im usually out there every event, but the funds havnt been available this season.
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