How to: Repack a front hub
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From: Very NorCal
@jpreston, where did you pick up the Moog? Amazon? RockAuto? FLAPS? I'm wondering about the price compars with the Timken.
Thanks for posting up about it, it's always good to have more sources and comparisons for these types of things
Thanks for posting up about it, it's always good to have more sources and comparisons for these types of things
Autozone online with a 20% off coupon for orders over $100. It's normally $98.99. Add a $4.99 duralast 3/8 drive 10mm socket (can't ever have too many) to the order and get the Moog for $80 shipped.
Autozone and Advance Auto both carry it, so you can pretty much always get it for at least 15% off.
Autozone and Advance Auto both carry it, so you can pretty much always get it for at least 15% off.
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 8,146
Total Cats: 1,087
From: Lake Forest, CA
Does the Moog box say made in Japan, and CarQuest say China?
Yep. I didn't notice that. Weird, since the bearing is stamped Japan. The Timken box doesn't say, but it had to have been made on the same line as the carquest. I can't find anything at all to differentiate those two.
I already hammered the caps in and put a detent into the locknut, so it will be annoying to undo all of that.
I just ran them as-is. I recently purchased some of the good grease and will venture into Aidansworld once I kill off these Mazdaspeed HDs (these are supposedly already repacked with the good stuff).
Joined: Apr 2014
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From: Beaverton, USA
Just received the Moog. It's exactly the same as the Timken and Carquest, except that the races are stamped "NTN JAPAN TL" on the Moog vs. "NTN JAPAN PL" on the other two. All have identical heat treating with the same pattern of ***** marks from hardness testing. The Timken and Carquest have been in my spares box for at least a year, so the newer Timken hubs may be "TL" also. I'm going to keep the Carquest in the spares box and install the Moog and Timken this weekend. I'll post an update if the Moog sucks.






I can tonight. I see what you're getting at... it looks like the diameter might be correct to allow you to install the tone ring onto a non-ABS hub, but it looks to me like the depth of the cut is too shallow.
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From: Very NorCal
For everyone still subbed or following this thread, please go here and read: https://www.miataturbo.net/race-prep...el-hubs-90331/
You have been warned.
You have been warned.
I am in the middle of repacking new Timken 513155 wheel hubs and hit a bit of a snag.
The Timken bearing has a different arrangement on the inner race. There is a "retaining channel" that grabs a series of 4 tabs on the retainer.

When I drive out the inner race with the crack washer method, it breaks off two of the retaining tabs on the race. (Red and Green arrows in photo) Just to be sure, I did both hubs and had the same result.

I'm planning to repack and reassemble as I don't think these tabs do much other than ease assembly at the factory. Anybody differ?
The Timken bearing has a different arrangement on the inner race. There is a "retaining channel" that grabs a series of 4 tabs on the retainer.

When I drive out the inner race with the crack washer method, it breaks off two of the retaining tabs on the race. (Red and Green arrows in photo) Just to be sure, I did both hubs and had the same result.

I'm planning to repack and reassemble as I don't think these tabs do much other than ease assembly at the factory. Anybody differ?
513155 is the Timken Miata ABS hub part number. 513152 is non-ABS.







