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Old 09-01-2016, 06:23 PM   #41
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Any part numbers on the seals
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Old 09-01-2016, 06:25 PM   #42
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Nope. Sorry brah.
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Old 09-01-2016, 06:44 PM   #43
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jpreston, where did you pick up the Moog? Amazon? RockAuto? FLAPS? I'm wondering about the price compars with the Timken.

Thanks for posting up about it, it's always good to have more sources and comparisons for these types of things
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Old 09-01-2016, 07:01 PM   #44
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Autozone online with a 20% off coupon for orders over $100. It's normally $98.99. Add a $4.99 duralast 3/8 drive 10mm socket (can't ever have too many) to the order and get the Moog for $80 shipped.

Autozone and Advance Auto both carry it, so you can pretty much always get it for at least 15% off.
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Old 09-01-2016, 07:20 PM   #45
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Does the Moog box say made in Japan, and CarQuest say China?
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Old 09-01-2016, 07:28 PM   #46
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Yep. I didn't notice that. Weird, since the bearing is stamped Japan. The Timken box doesn't say, but it had to have been made on the same line as the carquest. I can't find anything at all to differentiate those two.
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Old 09-02-2016, 12:04 PM   #47
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I just installed a couple of the Mazdaspeed HD "blueprinted" fronts after going through Mazda OEMs like water. Will report on how they stand up to Red.
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Old 09-02-2016, 12:14 PM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hornetball View Post
I just installed a couple of the Mazdaspeed HD "blueprinted" fronts after going through Mazda OEMs like water. Will report on how they stand up to Red.
What torque did you use? I installed a set and after they heat up one or both hum fairly noticeably at highway speeds. I called MMD yesterday and they said to re-torque them to 160-180ftlb, whereas the manual says 130-150ftlb iirc.
I already hammered the caps in and put a detent into the locknut, so it will be annoying to undo all of that.
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Old 09-02-2016, 01:05 PM   #49
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Thanks for the heads-up on that. I used the maintenance manual number.
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Old 09-02-2016, 01:39 PM   #50
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hornetball, did you repack the OEM ones or just run them as they came out of the box?
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Old 09-02-2016, 01:41 PM   #51
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I just ran them as-is. I recently purchased some of the good grease and will venture into Aidansworld once I kill off these Mazdaspeed HDs (these are supposedly already repacked with the good stuff).
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Old 09-16-2016, 12:03 PM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jpreston View Post
Just received the Moog. It's exactly the same as the Timken and Carquest, except that the races are stamped "NTN JAPAN TL" on the Moog vs. "NTN JAPAN PL" on the other two. All have identical heat treating with the same pattern of ***** marks from hardness testing. The Timken and Carquest have been in my spares box for at least a year, so the newer Timken hubs may be "TL" also. I'm going to keep the Carquest in the spares box and install the Moog and Timken this weekend. I'll post an update if the Moog sucks.



Could you measure the OD of the machined part where the ABS ring would go?
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Old 09-16-2016, 12:10 PM   #53
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I can tonight. I see what you're getting at... it looks like the diameter might be correct to allow you to install the tone ring onto a non-ABS hub, but it looks to me like the depth of the cut is too shallow.
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Old 09-16-2016, 12:11 PM   #54
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The tone rings aren't big. I've seen other places that people say the non abs hubs still have a place for the ring.
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Old 09-17-2016, 02:23 PM   #55
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Later OEM hubs had machining for tone rings on all hubs. We just press the tone rings off damaged hubs and put them on good ones all the time.
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Old 09-18-2016, 08:59 PM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aidandj View Post
Any part numbers on the seals
The seal on my OEM NB1 front hub reads
"NACHI" "F28BVV10" "JAPAN"

edit: this appears to be the part number for the entire hub assembly
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Old 10-20-2016, 11:46 AM   #57
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For everyone still subbed or following this thread, please go here and read: https://www.miataturbo.net/race-prep...el-hubs-90331/

You have been warned.
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Old 03-16-2017, 03:07 PM   #58
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I am in the middle of repacking new Timken 513155 wheel hubs and hit a bit of a snag.

The Timken bearing has a different arrangement on the inner race. There is a "retaining channel" that grabs a series of 4 tabs on the retainer.



When I drive out the inner race with the crack washer method, it breaks off two of the retaining tabs on the race. (Red and Green arrows in photo) Just to be sure, I did both hubs and had the same result.



I'm planning to repack and reassemble as I don't think these tabs do much other than ease assembly at the factory. Anybody differ?
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Old 03-16-2017, 03:17 PM   #59
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Is the 513155 for a Miata application? Or alternate part number?

That sucks, but prop for good pics. Te mo data, te bettah.
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Old 03-16-2017, 04:14 PM   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GasJunkie View Post
I'm planning to repack and reassemble as I don't think these tabs do much other than ease assembly at the factory. Anybody differ?
Agreed. I wouldn't worry about it if the tabs are cleanly broken off. The Raybestos hub I recently disassembled had 8-12 small tabs for the same purpose. A few of them broke when I hammered out the race, but most of them were still hanging on and flopping around loosely, like they would eventually fall off inside the hub. That one left me nervous. Yours looks like nothing to worry about.

513155 is the Timken Miata ABS hub part number. 513152 is non-ABS.
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