TNTUBA

iTrader: (1)

It has been an AMAZING amount of work getting that little ABS light to turn on....then turn off.

VIDEO0023 - YouTube

TNTUBA

iTrader: (1)

ABS and Racelogic Traction Control are both now functional

TX94MX5

I have and it is costly.

John just signed up on this forum and was going to PM you about ABS for my Miata. BUT I need 15 posts to PM. Ryan was going to put together some parts and bring them up to MSR Cresson. Could you please PM as I would like to get your thoughts.

Thanks

David T

TX94MX5

John got your PM, however because I only have Two total Posts (counting this one) on this forum I cannot PM folks until I get 15 posts So I will post these icons, which have to be moderator approved and could not possible offend any one, to express my dissatisfaction with the 15 PM rule.

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This is worst than flat spotting

Lee04vr

iTrader: (1)

I fought sponge pedal on my MSM I never could get the brakes to feel just right the car would stop fine but the pedal never felt right. I just did a break job in december and used a mighty vac kit to bleed the brakes, worked like a champ hard a rock hard pedal and only took 10 minutes.

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

Time to bring this back. Fuse box mounting, what fuse box bracket works with the 01+ abs bracket? I cant find the fuse box bracket in the mazda literature to see if its different between NB and NB abs. I'm probably just going to cut and splice the NA fuse box bracket.

Wiring, where do the damn wires go off the rear wheels? I cant find a hole in the chassis that the connector fits through because it obviously does somewhere with the rubber grommet built onto the wires. I'm using NA wheel speed sensor wiring. I'm considering just running it outside the frame rail.

codrus

The 03 ABS bracket bolted up and sat happily next to my 99 fusebox. IIRC, they both bolt to the chassis, there are no bolts that connect them directly.

I ran my rear wheel speed sensors along the PPF, because even if I had found a hole in the chassis (which didn't seem to be there), getting it through the passenger compartment and firewall seemed like it would be a PITA.

--Ian

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

I found the spot for the chassis. I figure I have to pull all the wiring along the sides up to do the fuel pump wiring and to move my ecu under the dash so its not going to be any more work. Here's the pictures that dont exist on the internet for posterity.

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

And my cut and spliced bracket. I ended up cutting both brackets to make it work and I had to hammer the fuse box bracket a bit so I could fit the ratchet in to the bolt on the abs pump. I welded the two together because the fuse box bracket was really floppy once it was cut up.

mr_hyde

iTrader: (4)

My solution was similar to Leafy but less elegant. I used the OEM ABS block bracket and cut a piece of aluminum angle to mount the fuse box to. The wires from each corner got new holes drilled in the tub with the OEM grommets from the donor.

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

Wiring. Fuses how did the rest of you handle this? I cant find any good ones in the stock box I already want to add a new fuse for the new fuel pump wiring so I am considering just adding a fuse block I have kicking around to the engine bay to run this. The pins for the ABS fuse in the fuse box arent populated and I have no idea where to get that weird connector besides cutting it out of some harness.

GraemeD

iTrader: (1)

Since my installation was replacing an existing ABS system with a newer system. I just copied the original fuse box/ABS mount. Fabricated some 3/16" steel into two 90* ears and welded them to the new bracket. Drilled and taped for 6mm studs. Basically just copied the old bracket layout. Hyde's solution is probably easier and quicker. I still have to unplug the wiper connector to open the fuse box lid.

codrus

I don't know how much of this would apply to an NA, but for putting the 2003 ABS unit into my 99 I needed 3 fuses:

10 amp for the electronics. In the 99, this was shared with the airbags from the factory, so I just piggybacked off it (fusebox under the dash) and ran a wire out through the firewall over to the ABS box.

20 amp for the ABS solenoids. The 99 fusebox is in two pieces, with an internal wiring harness that connects them. My non-ABS car came with a vacant socket for a 20 amp fuse, a wire connected to it inside that internal harness, but no pins in the connector that went between that internal harness and the main harness. I tapped off this internal wire and ran a wire out to the ABS unit right next to it.

"fusible link" for the ABS pump. The amperage is unspecified here, I measured spikes of around 50-60 amps when testing it. The top of the fusebox had the bus bar for this, but there were no contacts or wire in the internal harness connector for it. I dremelled off part of the internal harness connector and hacked up a female spade-lug connector to fit in its place, then ran a heavy gauge wire outside of the box and used female spade-lugs to connect to a 50 amp maxi-fuse and wrapped it in electrical tape. It's ugly, but it works. One of these days I'm going to replace it with a fuse holder of some kind.

--Ian

codrus

Why do you only have 3 of the hard lines hooked up? Or is that just an in-progress shot?

--Ian

GraemeD

iTrader: (1)

In progress, I don't have the MC/booster installed. I am going to add a prop valve inside the cabin. Haven't fully thought out the routing.

jpreston

iTrader: (4)

Is there any reason I shouldn't mount the ABS pump in the pass. floorboard? I don't really have room for it in the stock location in the engine bay, and I already have the fire bottle and cool suit cooler keeping me from reinstalling a pass. seat.

The only downside I see is having to make new hardlines from scratch and safely route them through the firewall.

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

Making new hardlines is the only downfall I can think of. Having cheap as **** lines that just fit perfectly is pretty nice, like really nice.

Mine is in and works perfectly. I really dont see why people stress over it being hard, it was pretty pretty ******* easy. Do remember the power wire in the diagram that says switch power, really needs to go to switched power, or else it draws over 2 amps with the car off, and thats bad, lol.

jpreston

iTrader: (4)

I’m not excited about making new hardlines, but if it lets me mount the 10lb pump almost 2ft lower and also lets me keep my current intake setup (and the ability to play with this sweet new Raetech SIR), it’s definitely worth it.

What was your process for bleeding brakes? I’ve read that bleeding is a pain with ABS but I haven’t really looked into why. I’m wondering if making the ABS pump the lowest point in the system (instead of close to the highest) will help the bleeding process.

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

Bleed, till no air. Drive a bit. Bleed till no air, drive a bit, bleed till no air, figure its got to be good now, go race, mushy pedal, bleed until no air. And I'm on that last step now. Sunday I'll know if I still have a mush pedal. HOPEFULLY it wont be that bad ever again, since my abs pump spent a good amount of time out of a car and spilled brake fluid all over the box it was shipped to me in. I know there was still fluid in it though because I bled all the super blue out of the car the first time with type 200, and I keep getting blue brake fluid when I start bleeding, so I'm assuming my abs block was used in a car with superblue before it was wrecked.

codrus

I haven't solved the mushy-pedal-after-abs-swap problem yet, and I've put about 2 gallons of brake fluid through the car after a half-dozen different bleed-then-go-out-and-engage-the-ABS sessions. It's at the point where I'm hooking it up to the diag ports in an OEM fashion and trying to find someone with the Mazda factory ABS service tool to see if they can bleed it properly with a factory procedure.

The other minor issue with mounting the ABS hydraulic unit in footwell would be fabricating the bracketry for it. OEM it's not hard-mounted to the chassis, rather there's a two-piece bracket with rubber isolators installed. I dunno if that's just for NVH reasons or if the ABS unit needs protection from the engine vibrations.

--Ian