No, he doesn't.

Stance GR+ is a full coilover shock, none of this OEM replacement with sleeves bs, with its own tophats.

Stance might be a ******* brand, I sure as hell don't think of them when I think miata shocks.

I agree with the second bit though, if you want to increase the rear spring rate, you need to do the same to the front.

edit: Drif-ter is ****'d out, I love mt.net.

 

Didn't realize that...if they bottom out as they come then that proves there was no R&D into this product, making it a **** product!!! Ebay FTW!

 

I've seen some silver Koni struts as part of their "coilover kits", but I'm pretty sure the "Race" dampers, at least in the Miata fitment, are yellow.

 

Once my car is back up and running and I hit up and atuo-x I'll try to find this guy named Curt, real fast driver, and look at his suspension again, that's the only time I have seen Koni race shocks and remember it being silver, hopefully he'll be able to clarify this for me as I am seriously confeused at this point. He could have the coil overs and that's what confeused me...
Yes, it is a Miata.

 

Bilstein HD....(need revalve or new shock...hate it)
QA1 400 front(soon to be 560lb)
Qa1 300 rear
FCM threaded perches
FCM Top mounts
FCM 48mm Bumpstops (soon to be 36mm)
Gearhead Garage 2.low endlinks
FM 1" front bar
No Rear bar

HDHCHT SD
Hardtop
FM Frame Rails in garage to be installed
Torsen LSD
PS

6UL, Azenis(replace with 225/45 RS2 when they burn out)

12.25" front, 12.75" rear ride height
-1.9* front, -1.8* rear camber, 4.3* caster

The car feels too "crashy"(no compression, lotsa rebound). I want to have the shocks rebuilt by bilstein and use the stiffer front springs to remove some oversteer in higher speed turns. Also ADD a little caster because it feels a little limp-wristed
I may need to raise the car a bit too, to eliminate some bumpstop riding. Possibly shorten shocks during rebuild process...

 

I'm running the TEIN basic kit at 12.5" all around with the RB front sway bar. Wheels/tires are Kosei K1 15x7 with Falken Azenis 205/50.

 

tein s-tech springs
grabriel ultra shock soon koni adj
and nb top hats on the way
disconnected rear sway bar and i felt it made a huge difference
all on college budget woohoo lol

 

-99 Hard S model.
FM sway bars
FM springs
Adjustable KYB AGXs.
Hard dog bar with door bars (does a lot for the cars stiffness)
Hawk Blue pads on the track, with normal NAPA rotors and super blue fluid.
Speed bleeders FTW!!
Toyo RA1 tires on Kosei K1 15x7

 

Suspension: Tein Flex w/ standard spring rates for now
RB sways front and rear w/ adjustable end links
Chassis: FM Butterfly brace
Tower brace and rear sub braces
6 point cage
Tires: Hoosier A6 205/50/R15 (track)
Azenis 205/50/R15 (for street)
Brakes: Stock pads for now - as they are fine with NA power
SS lines for better pedal feel
Engine: Monster flow intake
Coolant re-route
Stock internals
Drivetrain: ACT Stage II clutch
Torsen going in this weekend.
Misc: Numerous mods and deletes inside and out to drop weight of the vehicle

 

Suspension:
Tein Flex 9/6
Racing Beat sways with front brace
TDR heim jointed endlinks
Chassis:
HDHCDD w/harness bar
Beatrush STB
Beatrush Rear Ladder Brace
Adrenaline Racing Ladder Brace (need 2b installed)
HPI Engine Damper
Tires/Wheels:
Nickel 15x8 6UL's w/ 225/45/15 RS2's (street)
Bronze 15x7 Volk TE-37's w/225/45/15 RA-1's (track)
Brakes:
Hawk HP+ (street)
Hawk Blues (track)
Motul RBF600
TDR brake lines (need 2b installed)
Drivetrain:
TDR Dog Pack 1.6:
SPEC Stage 2+
Fidanza Flywheel
Aluminum Pressure Plate
TDR stainless steel clutch line
4.30 Torsen (installed this weekend)

 

oh great, the tein faegs are here.

 

On my Greddy NA:
Trust Adjustable Shocks
ISCracing Top mounts all around
Eibach Pro race
FM F/R sways
Goodrige SS lines
Axis Ultimates
Brembo Cross Drilled
HDHCDD
CP Racing Under body Braces
Ebay Upper Strut bar
Toyo 215/40/16 T1S

 

On my FMII NA:
KYB AGX
FM Springs
FM F/R sways
FM Cannon Brace
FM Upper strut Bar
Goodridge SS lines
Hawk HP Plus F/R
94 upgrade brakes
HDHCDD
RT 215 Azienis 205/50/15

 

Yep, Missed you during the rearend session this weekend.

 

Suspension:
Koni Sport W/ Carrera sleeves
Hypercoil 550F/350R
Factory bumpstops
Factory hats modified - raised 1 inch F/ 1.25 R, monoball mounts.
Factory 90' bars, Mount dropped 1.25"/Urethane mount/heim endlinks Front / Rear mounted in Delrin

Chassis:
Custom Fabbed 6 point RB
Custom Cradle braces

Brakes:
1.8L conversion / Hawk SPS (working on a 11" VW Corrado Rotor Upgrade)

Drivetrain:
1.8 W/ Kaaz 1.5

Wheel/Tires:
15x6.5 Konig Heliums / 225/45/15 Azenas

Setup is stiff for the street (WI roads are not smooth) and initial turn in is average. A spring rate/bar change may be in the near future.

 

On the race car:

Penske 8100 Series with 8760 Canisters
Eibach ERS 1100F/500R
Modified NB mounts in the rear
Mazda competition bushings all around
1" Suspension techniques front bar
no rear bar

factory 92 brakes w/ factory mazda pads

Hoosier A6 255/13's or 275/15's

 

Yeah, sure you do, chief.

Edit: Koni races are yellow. Easiest way to tell the two apart is the presence of a 4th snap-ring perch on the race that's much lower than the standard group of 3.

 

FM new springs
illuminas
fm sways.
16*7 with V700s.
250hp
front: camber 0.8 toe in 1/16 camber 5
rear: camber 1.5 toe in 1/16

What should be next for a quicker autox?

I seem to be stuck at 1.5 secs off FTD, who is usually in SM2 with me?

Turn in is no problem, its all about the rear end wag and my right foot!

I am thinking......
more camber?
rail brace?
Wider tires?

 

'95 R with all R stuff
Tein
RB tubular front SB with solid rear
JRSC with Trackdog I/C
Miata Link ECU
Hard Dog roll bar
EBC Green
SS brake lines
FM Happymeal clutch setup
Konig on Azenis for street Team Dynamics with R specs for track