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Originally Posted by patsmx5
(Post 359225)
Or you still have air in the master, which is my second guess. I doubt you bench bleed it well enough. +11113232 to a hand-held vac pump, as these make bleeding shit a lot easier. (read-you'll never do it without one after you try it)
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Originally Posted by hustler
(Post 359264)
pop the master off (two bolts and a tug-job) then take the black rod sticking out the back and spin it. Then you have a longer or shorter engagement height.
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Originally Posted by hustler
(Post 359401)
I pressed in the cylinder, slowly by hand multiple times, then with a wood clamp thingy that compresses the piston really slowly. What's this pump you speak of?
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better one at harbor freight. That one you linked to won't hold the pressure unless you are still pumping it.
Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices or... sigh... same thing but cheaper at sears. Oh well, sears is 10 miles from me, and HF is only 2 :) http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...7058000P?mv=rr |
The Sport brakes use larger pistons in the calipers and a larger master. Putting the front pistons on and leaving the rest of the system alone is going to give you more pedal travel, no matter how well you bleed the system.
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Originally Posted by Keith@FM
(Post 359847)
The Sport brakes use larger pistons in the calipers and a larger master. Putting the front pistons on and leaving the rest of the system alone is going to give you more pedal travel, no matter how well you bleed the system.
fyi, I do not think this is related to the brake valve. Thanks for chiming in. |
Originally Posted by hustler
(Post 359154)
I think the turbo is thugging the brake parts. I'll ask it nicely to stop.
On a side note, anyone have a link to good, affordable heat shielding for the brake lines and something to wrap around the valve? There is tape on that link as well. I might have some scraps if you come South of the River.
Originally Posted by Saml01
(Post 359254)
I had this 1 inch slop before with the stock brakes, and the same one inch slop with the sport brakes.
Its like 1 inch of nothing, then firm pedal. From what I remember it was the same with another MT netters car, so I just learned to live with it. Braking performance has always been very predictable and consistent. Chris |
Originally Posted by Miatamaniac92
(Post 359861)
Summit Heat Protective Products
There is tape on that link as well. I might have some scraps if you come South of the River. Same with me. It is annoying. I adjusted some of the play out with an adjustment to the Master, but didn't want to do too much and have them dragging. Might do this next time the car is up in the air. Chris |
Kill the engine, pump the brake pedal till all the vacuum is gone. Now, do you STILL have the 1" of slack before it gets hard? If so, you have slack before the master. If it's now hard as soon as you touch it, air.
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Sure, but there's no room in the garage.
Chris |
Originally Posted by patsmx5
(Post 359864)
Kill the engine, pump the brake pedal till all the vacuum is gone. Now, do you STILL have the 1" of slack before it gets hard? If so, you have slack before the master. If it's now hard as soon as you touch it, air.
Chris |
Originally Posted by Keith@FM
(Post 359847)
The Sport brakes use larger pistons in the calipers and a larger master. Putting the front pistons on and leaving the rest of the system alone is going to give you more pedal travel, no matter how well you bleed the system.
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Originally Posted by Miatamaniac92
(Post 359867)
:confused: So no slack after the dead pump means slack in the master/pedal connection?
Chris |
Originally Posted by Miatamaniac92
(Post 359867)
:confused: So no slack after the dead pump means slack in the master/pedal connection?
Chris
Originally Posted by patsmx5
If it's now hard as soon as you touch it, air.
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Originally Posted by patsmx5
(Post 359864)
Kill the engine, pump the brake pedal till all the vacuum is gone. Now, do you STILL have the 1" of slack before it gets hard? If so, you have slack before the master. If it's now hard as soon as you touch it, air.
edit: If I pump it, its rock hard, instantly. |
Air. Get the hand held vac pump I linked you to. They got them at any autoparts store. Bleed that shit. /thread
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Also get a screwdriver and tap on the calipers with the handle. Helps to get tiny air bubbles stuck to the sides of the cylinders to "let go" and float to the top where they can be bleed out.
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I don't understand the need for the hand-pump.
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Originally Posted by hustler
(Post 359886)
I don't understand the need for the hand-pump.
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Originally Posted by patsmx5
(Post 359888)
You do now.
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