:ugh2:

I meant that if you pumped it while the engine was off, and there's no slack then that would mean that the freeplay while the engine is on needs to be adjusted with the Master/pedal lever.

That confirms what I thought.

More detailed explanation: Sport Compact Car: Technobabble: December 2002

"Fifth thing to remember: Bigger pistons in the calipers mean more pedal movement."

Sorry, had to link the old SCC article. SCC used to have some good information every couple issues.

Chris

Hustler,you might want to try using your penis pump to get the little air bubbles out.

I'm pretty sure I'll need a bigger one for the 8mm bleeder.

fixed

This brings up a few questions I have about bleeding brakes. Should you have the engine on (i.e. pressure for the booster) while bleeding? I feel satisfied with the pressure when bleeding, then turn the engine on and it gets a little too soft for my liking.

With the Wilwood valve, should I bleed with it all the way open or closed? (open is unscrewed, closed is screwed in, correct?)

And again with the Wilwood valve, if I go from all the way open to closed or closed to open, the first pump of the pedal is just a titch softer than every pump after that, is this normal?

I was expecting to be able to lock up the rear brakes first pretty easily with the valve all the way unscrewed (the opposite direction of "less brake") but even with it all the way open, I seem to be barely getting the even pressure between front/back that I was hoping would show up somewhere in the middle of the valve's travel. This was tested in the wet and dry, if it makes a difference.

You don't need the engine running. The booster simply increases the amount of pressure in the brake system for a given pedal pressure. You don't need much pressure to bleed the brakes, thus there is no reason for the booster.

The Wilwood setting shouldn't make any difference - again, you don't need significant pressure. I can see how the first pump after adjusting the Wilwood might be slightly softer, but I wouldn't worry unless it's causing a problem.

If you don't get rear lockup even with the Wilwood set all the way to "more brake", then you either have a mechanical problem with your rear brakes (check those slider pins) or your setup is so unbalanced that even running even pressure won't give you rear lockup. By the way, the rears will become more prone to lockup as traction increases, so if they don't lock in the dry they definitely won't lock in the wet.