long pedal after sport-brake swap

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01-26-2009, 10:12 PM

#21

hustler

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Quote:

Originally Posted by patsmx5

Or you still have air in the master, which is my second guess. I doubt you bench bleed it well enough. +11113232 to a hand-held vac pump, as these make bleeding **** a lot easier. (read-you'll never do it without one after you try it)

I pressed in the cylinder, slowly by hand multiple times, then with a wood clamp thingy that compresses the piston really slowly. What's this pump you speak of?

01-26-2009, 11:31 PM

#22

Saml01

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Quote:

Originally Posted by hustler

pop the master off (two bolts and a tug-job) then take the black rod sticking out the back and spin it. Then you have a longer or shorter engagement height.

Can anyone confirm this?

01-26-2009, 11:39 PM

#23

patsmx5

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Quote:

Originally Posted by hustler

I pressed in the cylinder, slowly by hand multiple times, then with a wood clamp thingy that compresses the piston really slowly. What's this pump you speak of?

Actron Vacuum Pump/Brake Bleed Kit - Model CP7835 at Sears.com

01-27-2009, 12:58 AM

#24

posidon42

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better one at harbor freight. That one you linked to won't hold the pressure unless you are still pumping it.

Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices

or... sigh... same thing but cheaper at sears. Oh well, sears is 10 miles from me, and HF is only 2

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...7058000P?mv=rr

01-27-2009, 06:36 PM

#25

Keith@FM

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The Sport brakes use larger pistons in the calipers and a larger master. Putting the front pistons on and leaving the rest of the system alone is going to give you more pedal travel, no matter how well you bleed the system.

01-27-2009, 06:44 PM

#26

hustler

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Keith@FM

Will the increase in travel feel like a 1" dead-spot, or should there be some pressure throughout the travel? My buddy with a 94 has the same brake set-up and no dead-spot. I'm about to switch to 1.8 fronts because of the drama. However, after about 50-track hours owith the standard 1.6 brakes, I don't mind a little extra travel.

fyi, I do not think this is related to the brake valve.

Thanks for chiming in.

Last edited by hustler; 01-27-2009 at 06:55 PM.

01-27-2009, 06:55 PM

#27

Miatamaniac92

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Quote:

Originally Posted by hustler

I think the turbo is thugging the brake parts. I'll ask it nicely to stop.

On a side note, anyone have a link to good, affordable heat shielding for the brake lines and something to wrap around the valve?

Summit Heat Protective Products

There is tape on that link as well. I might have some scraps if you come South of the River.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Saml01

I had this 1 inch slop before with the stock brakes, and the same one inch slop with the sport brakes.

Its like 1 inch of nothing, then firm pedal. From what I remember it was the same with another MT netters car, so I just learned to live with it. Braking performance has always been very predictable and consistent.

Same with me. It is annoying. I adjusted some of the play out with an adjustment to the Master, but didn't want to do too much and have them dragging. Might do this next time the car is up in the air.

Chris

01-27-2009, 06:59 PM

#28

hustler

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Miatamaniac92

Summit Heat Protective Products

There is tape on that link as well. I might have some scraps if you come South of the River.

Same with me. It is annoying. I adjusted some of the play out with an adjustment to the Master, but didn't want to do too much and have them dragging. Might do this next time the car is up in the air.

Chris

I'll swing by next week. I'm stuck in Houston again this weekend. Wanna hold my car over the weekend?

01-27-2009, 07:02 PM

#29

patsmx5

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Kill the engine, pump the brake pedal till all the vacuum is gone. Now, do you STILL have the 1" of slack before it gets hard? If so, you have slack before the master. If it's now hard as soon as you touch it, air.

01-27-2009, 07:03 PM

#30

Miatamaniac92

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Sure, but there's no room in the garage.

Chris

01-27-2009, 07:06 PM

#31

Miatamaniac92

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Quote:

Originally Posted by patsmx5

So no slack after the dead pump means slack in the master/pedal connection?

Chris

01-27-2009, 07:09 PM

#32

neogenesis2004

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Keith@FM

Looks like I am a winner!

01-27-2009, 07:15 PM

#33

patsmx5

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Miatamaniac92

So no slack after the dead pump means slack in the master/pedal connection?

Chris

I don't understand what you're asking. Reread what I said above. With bigger calipers and not a bigger master, there will be more travel. But that doesn't mean there will be a "dead" inch in the pedal by any means.

01-27-2009, 07:18 PM

#34

boileralum

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Miatamaniac92

So no slack after the dead pump means slack in the master/pedal connection?

Chris

Re-read.

Quote:

Originally Posted by patsmx5

If it's now hard as soon as you touch it, air.

You have air in your system.

01-27-2009, 07:19 PM

#35

hustler

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Quote:

Originally Posted by patsmx5

correct, firm from the top...another reason why I think its air and not the master.

edit: If I pump it, its rock hard, instantly.

01-27-2009, 07:29 PM

#36

patsmx5

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Air. Get the hand held vac pump I linked you to. They got them at any autoparts store. Bleed that ****. /thread

01-27-2009, 07:30 PM

#37

patsmx5

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Also get a screwdriver and tap on the calipers with the handle. Helps to get tiny air bubbles stuck to the sides of the cylinders to "let go" and float to the top where they can be bleed out.