"Loose" alignment bolts = rattle?
#1
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"Loose" alignment bolts = rattle?
And by loose, I mean what Mazda recommends, which is something like 70lb-ft if I recall, which does seem low to me for something like alignment bolts. I have read several pages that have claimed they need to be tightened to quite a bit more or they will slip alignment and you will develop a rattle. I have had a rattle since I got the car, which went away for a short time after I installed new bushings and bolts, which makes me think maybe this is all my problem has been all along. It does sound like it's from that area, but I always blamed it on something steering related, which seems unlikely. I think something I read said they need to be as high as 150-170lb-ft to truly hold and prevent rattles. Is there any validity to this argument?
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I dunno. 70lb-ft on parts that are clamped from the sides like the control arms are seems like a pretty low torque to hold. That would be like trying to carry a heavy weight by clamping it from the sides instead of holding it under. Makes sense in my head anyway. Hit one big bump and there just doesn't seem possible that it could hold without slipping, and after a few slips, it probably is loose enough to continue to slip and start a rattle any time you hit a bump.
#6
It's possible that it is your bolts, if you are concerned about the rattle why don't you get a det can and try listening to different parts of the chassis for the rattle? I would think you could hear through that better if you can hear it while driving. I have a ton of rattles, I just turn the volume up/push the go pedal more.
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I just put the updated designed hardware in my daily and the ******* who aligned it imacted them on with enough torque to mushroom the eccentric flange thingy. Thanks a lot, ********.
#9
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Well the problem with that is that when I put them on, I'm using a regular length 1/2'' drive ratchet and doing it in a very awkward position, since I can't get the car very far off the ground. Never use a breaker bar (won't fit) or even better, a torque wrench (also won't fit), so I would imagine they are about what Mazda recommends. A little extra *** may be required, which would be easier doing on the actual alignment lift. Maybe I can talk them into doing it for me, or letting me come under there and do it myself. I do have the new Mazda alignment bolts, btw. Got them when I make the total douche move of replacing all of my bushings with stock ones ($600) instead of after market stiffer ones (maybe $200).
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