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The Miata Bushing MEGAthread: Heirarchy, DIY delrin dimensions, info and discussion

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The Miata Bushing MEGAthread: Heirarchy, DIY delrin dimensions, info and discussion

 
Old 11-22-2018, 05:11 PM
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For this purpose it doesn't really matter.
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Old 12-20-2018, 05:04 AM
  #322  
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Default PSA - Sealing those holes

Maybe this is common knowledge, but I just discovered it ...

We all know there are a bunch of extra holes in the housings that have to be sealed, or the grease escapes. I drilled and tapped them for 8mm grub screws - job done, felt quite pleased with myself.

Belatedly, I realised that if only they made grease nipples (zerks) in 8mm, I might be able to kill two birds here, at least in some locations. And of course they do make them in 8mm ... so now I have a collection of straight and 90* 8mm nips to both fill the surplus hole, AND grease the bushes.

They will have to wait for the new year now, but I will report on what locations these can be used. In the meantime, if anybody is working on their SADFab bushes over the break, this is another option for sealing the holes.
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Old 12-20-2018, 09:54 AM
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Lol what extra holes?
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Old 12-20-2018, 06:22 PM
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The NBs had holes in the bushing bore, Tarek.
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Old 12-20-2018, 06:55 PM
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Everyday is a learning day. Thanks!
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Old 12-30-2018, 06:13 PM
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Apologies if this comment doesn't belong here and this may have been covered already, but is the wait list still supposed to be caught up by February? I joined the waiting list on November 5th. Waiting patiently is difficult, LOL!
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Old 01-07-2019, 01:43 PM
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So here's a dumb question that I can't find an answer to by searching - the FUCA bushings need to be drilled to 7/8" exactly centered. Recommendation is a lathe. Makes sense.

Pardon my dumb, but why doesn't a drill press work? I'm imagining using a centering cone to set the bushing up in a vise, and then swapping to the 7/8" bit and drilling it out.

With a lathe, does the lathe and bit have to be super precise, or does a generic woodworking lathe and a home depot bit work?
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Old 01-07-2019, 06:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Mirage775 View Post
Apologies if this comment doesn't belong here and this may have been covered already, but is the wait list still supposed to be caught up by February? I joined the waiting list on November 5th. Waiting patiently is difficult, LOL!
Probably not, too much going on

Originally Posted by jspadaro View Post
So here's a dumb question that I can't find an answer to by searching - the FUCA bushings need to be drilled to 7/8" exactly centered. Recommendation is a lathe. Makes sense.

Pardon my dumb, but why doesn't a drill press work? I'm imagining using a centering cone to set the bushing up in a vise, and then swapping to the 7/8" bit and drilling it out.

With a lathe, does the lathe and bit have to be super precise, or does a generic woodworking lathe and a home depot bit work?
You can use any drilling implement you like provided you can reasonably hold the bushing without distorting it. The only way I've been able to do this repeatably is by machining a steel sleeve simulating the control arm bore. A 3 jaw chuck, or pair of v-blocks, let alone a plain vise will not hold it well without crushing it significantly. Removing the mold release does help though.
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Old 01-07-2019, 06:25 PM
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Originally Posted by hi_im_sean View Post
You can use any drilling implement you like provided you can reasonably hold the bushing without distorting it. The only way I've been able to do this repeatably is by machining a steel sleeve simulating the control arm bore. A 3 jaw chuck, or pair of v-blocks, let alone a plain vise will not hold it well without crushing it significantly. Removing the mold release does help though.
Ah, OK, thanks, that makes sense. What about just putting the control arm into a vise without removing the bushing? (Letting the other part of the arm/ the other bushing sit under the table)
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Old 01-07-2019, 06:55 PM
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I don't see why you couldn't do that, just make sure everything is square. I also forgot to mention regarding the bits, whatever you use make sure its sharp and use lots of lube. The bit itself doesn't have to be "precise", any 7/8" (twist drill) bit will work.
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Old 01-07-2019, 09:03 PM
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Makes sense, thanks!
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Old 04-08-2019, 10:55 PM
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Straight up polyurethane bushing upgrade. Energy suspension bushings. Front upper control arm drivers side. Haven't done passenger side yet. Checked to make sure the correct bushing and sleeve are going in. Sleeve length is correct at 2.250. There is a gap on the inside at the subframe tube. The sleeves are bottomed out and the long bolt is torqued. Doesn't make sense. What have i missed?


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Old 04-09-2019, 07:17 PM
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Normal.
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Old 04-09-2019, 07:27 PM
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Someone mentioned it was possible to get less castor on NB's without power steering by spacing upper arm forward with washers?

My NB2 with delrin and ELBJ I can only get down to 5 on castor @ 3.1 degrees camber and 4 7/8" pinch, and its a bear.

Any idea how to do this without pulling upper bolt all the way out as its a PITA with sway bar support in the way?
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Old 04-09-2019, 07:51 PM
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Originally Posted by hi_im_sean View Post
Normal.
Thanks for the reply.
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Old 05-26-2019, 01:17 AM
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I hope this is the appropriate place to post this, but I finally started prepping my arms for the delrin bushing install today and noticed that the rear bushing "barrel" on one of the new aftermarket front lower control arms is not perfectly aligned. It's angled slightly away from the corresponding bushing barrel at the front of the arm (see attached images). Obviously with the greater compliance of rubber bushings, this is probably not a huge concern to the manufacturer, but given the reduced compliance of the delrin bushings, should I be concerned? Is the arm itself compliant enough to "correct" itself once it's all assembled and bolted to the car or should I attempt to tweak the arm slightly with a long pipe before installing the bushings (and if unsuccessful, look for a replacement arm)?


Rear bushing tube on new aftermarket (Mevotech Supreme) front lower control arm is slightly misaligned.

Rear bushing tube on new aftermarket (Mevotech Supreme) front lower control arm is slightly misaligned.
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