For this purpose it doesn't really matter.

 

Maybe this is common knowledge, but I just discovered it ...

We all know there are a bunch of extra holes in the housings that have to be sealed, or the grease escapes. I drilled and tapped them for 8mm grub screws - job done, felt quite pleased with myself.

Belatedly, I realised that if only they made grease nipples (zerks) in 8mm, I might be able to kill two birds here, at least in some locations. And of course they do make them in 8mm ... so now I have a collection of straight and 90* 8mm nips to both fill the surplus hole, AND grease the bushes.

They will have to wait for the new year now, but I will report on what locations these can be used. In the meantime, if anybody is working on their SADFab bushes over the break, this is another option for sealing the holes.

 

 

The NBs had holes in the bushing bore, Tarek.

 

 

Apologies if this comment doesn't belong here and this may have been covered already, but is the wait list still supposed to be caught up by February? I joined the waiting list on November 5th. Waiting patiently is difficult, LOL!

 

So here's a dumb question that I can't find an answer to by searching - the FUCA bushings need to be drilled to 7/8" exactly centered. Recommendation is a lathe. Makes sense.

Pardon my dumb, but why doesn't a drill press work? I'm imagining using a centering cone to set the bushing up in a vise, and then swapping to the 7/8" bit and drilling it out.

With a lathe, does the lathe and bit have to be super precise, or does a generic woodworking lathe and a home depot bit work?

 

Probably not, too much going on

You can use any drilling implement you like provided you can reasonably hold the bushing without distorting it. The only way I've been able to do this repeatably is by machining a steel sleeve simulating the control arm bore. A 3 jaw chuck, or pair of v-blocks, let alone a plain vise will not hold it well without crushing it significantly. Removing the mold release does help though.

 

Ah, OK, thanks, that makes sense. What about just putting the control arm into a vise without removing the bushing? (Letting the other part of the arm/ the other bushing sit under the table)

 

I don't see why you couldn't do that, just make sure everything is square. I also forgot to mention regarding the bits, whatever you use make sure its sharp and use lots of lube. The bit itself doesn't have to be "precise", any 7/8" (twist drill) bit will work.

 

Makes sense, thanks!

 

Straight up polyurethane bushing upgrade. Energy suspension bushings. Front upper control arm drivers side. Haven't done passenger side yet. Checked to make sure the correct bushing and sleeve are going in. Sleeve length is correct at 2.250. There is a gap on the inside at the subframe tube. The sleeves are bottomed out and the long bolt is torqued. Doesn't make sense. What have i missed?

 

Normal.

 

Someone mentioned it was possible to get less castor on NB's without power steering by spacing upper arm forward with washers?

My NB2 with delrin and ELBJ I can only get down to 5 on castor @ 3.1 degrees camber and 4 7/8" pinch, and its a bear.

Any idea how to do this without pulling upper bolt all the way out as its a PITA with sway bar support in the way?

 

Thanks for the reply.

 

I hope this is the appropriate place to post this, but I finally started prepping my arms for the delrin bushing install today and noticed that the rear bushing "barrel" on one of the new aftermarket front lower control arms is not perfectly aligned. It's angled slightly away from the corresponding bushing barrel at the front of the arm (see attached images). Obviously with the greater compliance of rubber bushings, this is probably not a huge concern to the manufacturer, but given the reduced compliance of the delrin bushings, should I be concerned? Is the arm itself compliant enough to "correct" itself once it's all assembled and bolted to the car or should I attempt to tweak the arm slightly with a long pipe before installing the bushings (and if unsuccessful, look for a replacement arm)?


Rear bushing tube on new aftermarket (Mevotech Supreme) front lower control arm is slightly misaligned.

Rear bushing tube on new aftermarket (Mevotech Supreme) front lower control arm is slightly misaligned.

 

I thought that I should post a review of the poly/bronze bushings, now that I have installed them and driven a bit. Unfortunately, no track work on these yet (a leaking rear gearbox seal put paid to that), but if anyone has read the two posts I made on the (late, lamented) racecar's delrin bushes, it is more of the same.

The car is running the full poly/bronze bushings in all locations, with the springs and shocks from the racecar. Set on full soft for the road, the ride is firm and well damped, not harsh. I thought the metal/metal bushes might make a bit of noise, but window down I have heard nothing.

I had been worried that ride would be too uncompromising for the 'road' half of the dual duty job description and either new softer springs, and/or milder valved shocks would be required. But now having driven a few hundred kms I am happy to leave things as they are, for the road at least. The other half, the track side, remains to be tested. More power than the racecar, more weight too, it remains to be seen how that affects its behaviour.

In the meantime, colour me happy

 

I'm trying to recollect all ideas in order to try something like iglidur or similar from A+P here in Italy.
The thing is that i cannot find any confirmation that these diameters referes to INNER diameter of the sleeves, altought for me it's obvious but better asking.

 

D= is the id of the control arm bore.

 

Just a heads up - if, like me, you screw up drilling the FUCA bushing out to the right size, you can buy them in bulk here Bulk 2165 bushings

I'm in no way affiliated, just thought others might find that it useful to get a couple spares. They're cheap at ~$5 each.