Going from the pricing they sent me on the other parts, and not knowing if it was in US or Euro, it'll be around $18-$21 / pair, plus shipping.

 

Bingo! M12s it is.

 

Ah, cool, thanks guys!

 

So I had the right PN to begin with. Phew.

I have not heard back from anyone at ATEC yet, so if you wanna 1. pass your contact along to me. 2. Order a set of fittings for myself and Boiler, we can reimburse you. We'd have to figure out the secondary shipping step, unless ATEC can ship out to 3 different addresses.

 

PM sent.

 

For the record, here are the results of measuring an MK60 pressure sensor, using pressure readings from an AiM pressure sensor as reference.

PSI, mV
0, 470
100, 632
300, 953
600, 1430
900, 1910
1200, 2385
2400, 4300 (extrapolated)

That's pretty linear, so you can easily extrapolate out to whatever PSI you need.
I'll eventually delete my AiM sensor and read off the front MK60 sensor for data analysis.

 

I assume every ones MK60 unit does that little clicking thing, ~3 times / sec, whenever power is on?

 

Mine does.

 

Thanks!

 

It looks like Ate supplied the mk60 unit for a lot of other manufacturers, and those units are available much cheaper (like $70 for a mk5 VW Golf unit on eBay in a very quick search). Has anyone run across any write#ups of using those in other cars?

 

I was literally just noticing that while browsing eBay for hidden 817 units at cheap prices. No luck.

The one that caught me was a Suzuki Grand Vitara “ate mk60” unit. I just can’t think it would perform the same. I think it was labeled mk60p.

I didn’t find the VW one you were looking at, but the one I did find had a completely different part number where the 818.3 or whatever should be.

I wonder if any of these could be flashed to the special Motorsports code…

In the documentation I did find for the BMW unit, it is applicable to some MINIs of the same timeframe. Maybe that’s a decent place to start?

 

That'd be awesome if a cheaper version was "good enough". I'd bet there's something out there that's noticeably better than no ABS, and better than 1990's generations of ABS. Of course, it's all in the firmware.

If I don't find the cause of my problems, I might try another version if I could find one for under $100, just to prove it is or isn't a bad unit I have.

 

Here is where I saw a list of models using an MK60 unit https://www.ate-brakes.com/products/...-control-unit/

 

i can confirm. i just finished this swap on my 67 Camaro, and i felt the same thing as you after wiring per the instructions we both saw. I reversed it and now it works flawlessly. I found this thread in my search for that crunchy feeling so thanks for the info.

 

OHHHH.....thanks for reporting in! That gives me hope for next weekend.
I've made some other tweaks too, but now I'm excited!

 

you'll really like the system. I was able to trail brake really well and go wayyyy deeper than i could before. night and day difference.

 

The Mk60e5 outputs the pressures over the CAN bus. Mk60 could very much be the same way and if your logger reads CAN too you won't need to splice sensors. Contact your ABS dealer about the Mk60 CAN protocol.

 

My understanding with the Mk60 was that unless certain components were connected via CAN, (I believe it was the steering angle sensor), the Mk60 would not send CAN data like pressures. I believe it was earlier in this thread that someone suggested that AIM data loggers somehow provided a solution to this. I'd like more info, if anyone has it.

 

So, I was wondering how one flashes what I would call a firmware image onto the Mk60 and googled "mk60 abs flash". One of the top results was this website in Germany. Race ABS MK60 Flashing and ECU Standalone - Race and Trackday Parts

If you look at the photos there... the one on the left is the unicorn 817.3, but the other two are distinctly not.

I wonder where the other ones come from and if they're flashable. I think an email to the contact person, Mario (info@mk-rennsporttechnik.de) might be informative.

 

I just spliced in, got the 0-5v output of the analog sensor. Calibrated it, and input to a generic analog input to the MXm. Turns out to be pretty easy. I'm avoiding buying an AiM CAN module.