How much torque? Match the clutch assembly to the torque output of the engine with the information published on our website.

The sprung puck can be driven on the street quite easily. A bit more abrupt engagement than the organic but not terribly so.

This was exactly why I ordered the sprung puck. I want it to be able to handle what I plan to do with it in the future, and I'm not opposed to giving up a little in the smoothness of engagement in order for it to handle what I plan to dish out to it. So yeah, did a lot of reading and comparing before I came to that decision.

Just weighing in on my Supermiata clutch and flywheel, I went with the lightweight 1.6 Organic/hybrid clutch and 8lb aluminum flywheel. It's really responsive and revs so freely, which can also make it tricky for others driving the car around the street for their first time. I also notice the clutch much prefers to be rev matched (duh) on down shifts or a small little blip of the throttle when letting the clutch out wihen slowly moving down a gear on the street, otherwise I'll get a little shudder through the drivetrain. Otherwise clutch pedal is near OEM light.

Car is 1990 with VVT motor and Rotrex making 243hp/193tq. So I'm nearing the torque recommendations for the 1.6 clutch but I've not noticed any slippage or issues, even with autox. Would purchase again!

Just making sure, the torque rating on the website is for wheel torque not flywheel, or am I mistaken?
I drive a 350z and the number one thing I hate is the abrupt engagement of the clutch. I bought a 90 miata as a project car and the torque limit of the 1.8 organic is what I'll build the engine and cooling around. Cause you know. Streetability.

Wheel. No one actually knows torque at the flywheel.

1.6 or 1.8 with FM Flywheel
 

Should I get the 1.6 or 1.8?
NA8 with buit motor and already had a 10.3lbs FM flywheel. Dedicated track car but not trailored.

Turbo or naturally aspirated?

1.6 if naturally aspirated, 1.8 if turbo.

Naturally aspirated. So the 1.6 mated would need a new FW since FM Flywheel is 1.8. Means I am stuck with 1.8 PP and FD.

Finished installing the clutch/flywheel package this weekend. Still have a few things to take care of before I'm finished with the 6 speed swap. Trans is in though, just need to give everything a good once over, and put the bottom of the chassis back together. Took a few photos of it while putting it all together, will post them up later. Got to get cleaned up and eat something. Will finish next weekend.

Went for my first drive this weekend, and the clutch, flywheel, and transmission all feel exactly the way I expected they would. I don't think I could have chosen a better package. Clutch engagement happens at the low end of the pedal and compared to stock, is slightly abrupt, but not irritatingly so. Clutch effort doesn't feel a whole lot different from stock, but modulation is more difficult, although I expect this also has a lot to do with the lightened flywheel. For someone used to driving a manual all the time, its manageable, but to my wife, who has driven automatics now for most of her adult life, its a lot more challenging but not impossible, she just had to work at it more. Definitely not what you want to teach your teenager how to drive in. Since I am still breaking it in I can't comment on the acceleration of my 6 speed with the 4.30 in it, but I do intend to start another thread on that later. For right here I'm staying on topic. This clutch had a proper install, using proper torque values, and a sanitary installation free of contaminants. After proper break in, I fully intend to let it have it to see how much my acceleration has improved with the whole combination.

And the best news is that I'm going to need a brake job soon. SuperMiata can plan on hearing from me about their Wilwood brake package soon because after this, they will have my business in the future. Never met you Emilio, but thanks man.

If you used the sprung pucked clutch, it doesnt need break in.

Yeah, I did get the sprung puck, but I’ve never hammered on a new clutch in my 35 years of wrenching so it’s no big deal to break it in for a few hundred miles. Not saying you are wrong, just that I might have an overactive mechanical sympathy gland that disconnects my foot and brain in order to prevent abuse too soon.

Planning on snagging a 1.6 Clutch+Flywheel for my NB VVT. Anything different when installing a 1.6 clutch on a 1.8?

Nope. Re-use your old flywheel to crank and pressure plate to flywheel bolts.

Is it normal for the clutch to engage at the very, very top of pedal travel? I've tried bleeding it a ton of times and adjusting the clutch pedal but nothing changes. Adjusting it lower makes the car not want to get into gear.

1.8VVT motor with 1.6 organic full face with sprung hub and 1.6 8lb flywheel. I feel like I'm going to burn up the clutch driving it like this and it's impossible to drive smooth anyway.

With a heat treated diaphragm spring like we use, yes that is as it should be. Roughly same engagement pint as an OEM clutch. It's unusual that someone would not be happy with that. Cheaper clutches just use thicker, non-heat treated diaphragm springs that give a heavier pedal for the same clamping force and engage near the floor. Those are not good things.

You can adjust the pushrod going into the master and also the freeplay on the cruise control switch. Make sure you leave a few mm of free play on the pushrod at the top of the stroke or you will kill the clutch.
Bleeding will only make it engage higher if it had air in it, not the other way around. You have a very light weight, high performance clutch assembly. It will require a bit of finesse / learning curve to be fluid with it.

As far as I know I had a full OEM setup in the car before. It would engage around the middle of pedal travel, maybe slightly higher. The Supermiata clutch is engaging right at the very, very top of pedal travel. Like very last mm before your foot is completely off. Just want to make sure there's not something wrong will the tool turning wrenches is all!

Edit: Reversed what I understood the FM Clutch adjustment procedure should be and the clutch engages much closer to the middle! Looks like it was a problem with the tool turning wrenches after all.

My currently clutch(OEM clutch and flywheel) started to slip at Laguna Seca this past weekend, time for new clutch! I'm looking at one of the sport clutches(organic sprung) as well as a lightweight flywheel. The car is track focused(3-5 events a year) with the occasional weekend drive every few weeks. Engine will stay N/A with no current plans for boost. Car also has A/C and power steering with no plans on removing them.

How much of a difference am I going to notice between the 1.6 and the 1.8 lightweight flywheel setups? I know that it's going to be fun getting used to driving with a lightweight flywheel. I'm curious as to how much more difficult it'll be to start the car from a dead stop between the lighter 8lb 1.6 vs the 10lb 1.8 flywheel. Will I also see a noticeable difference in response and engine revs between the two? I don't care about any extra noise and vibration, I'm more worried about driveability on the street as well as performance.

If you are concerned about drivability, stick with the BP system.

Puck Rigid 1.8/BP variant is marked down for closeout. Save $60 on a 340lbft capacity clutch.

https://supermiata.com/SuperMiata-Sp...-Miata-BP.aspx
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...bc12775edf.jpg

How bad would this be if driven on the street, say once a week in the summer. I know it adds significant NVH but will it add extra stress to anything or speed up wear on the rest of the drivetrain

In theory it could shock the trans more. In practice i doubt it makes much difference, and if so, Miata transmissions are cheap and easy to replace.

I've had a 4 puck unsprung 1.6 setup in my car for 3.5 years. It's fine. Ridiculously easy to drive as well. 10/10 will never go with anything heavier again.

Welp I guess im ordering the rigid 1.8 clutch on pay day. Been wanting the clutch for a wile now anyways just havent needed it yet. The new motor has a normal flywheel that had the weight chopped off. think it is 13#

When is the use of rigid preferred vs sprung ?

When you want the 1lb weight savings for faster shifting and more direct power transfer without the sprung hub absorbing precious tenths of a horsepower. Basically anytime its a dedicated racecar.

Rigid: Noisy, harsh, abrupt, slightly faster shifting than sprung
Sprung: Not noisy. not harsh, smooth

Thanks Emilio - convinced now that i need a sprung ...in all departments.

Geez, you couldn't have had a sale on the sprung hub? That's a screaming deal, be interested to compare the sprung hub puck to the spec stg. 3 it'll be replacing.

Would the 1.6 7.8lbs flywheel give me idle issues on my NA 1.8 with power steering and A/C on?

Yes. The A/C likes a bit of mass in the flywheel.

Just drove my new sport clutch for the first time. I got the sprung hub puck and wow is this thing easy to drive compared to the spec stg. 3 that was in it. Pedal pressure is way less too which was a welcome surprise.

Is there any break in period per say with a puck disk?

Puck requires minimal break-in. Drive for maybe a day of normal street driving and then go to the dyno if you want.

What about organic? I didn't see anything on the site about break-in time.

A few days. Don't over think it.

I've just finished breaking in my 1.8 organic with the 10lbs flywheel combo. It took me a few days to get use to driving a lightweight flywheel, but I never stalled the car. After I got used to the clutch it makes me wonder if I should have went with the 1.6 combo instead. Oh well, it's already done. There are no issues with idle, no noticeable new noises, just faster revs.
I was really surprised on how the clutch effort is compared to stock. You can feel it's just slightly more difficult to press the clutch pedal in, but not that much more. I am really happy with the effort, it makes the car feel more sporty.
The flywheel makes heel-toe downshifting EASY. I'm so excited to see how the car does now at thunderhill in two weeks.

Thank you for this feedback.

Our more expensive heat treated diaphragm spring gives us the higher clamp load without requiring a 50lb clutch pedal. That is key for use in an enduro racing car where leg fatigue is bad, or a dual duty car that your not-as-enthusiast SO might need to drive on occasion.

We like to joke that with our Sport clutches and even the Twin with the Organic discs, you can toss the keys to your racecar to your non-car-enthusiast friends and specifically not have to warn them about the clutch. There is no need for "careful with the clutch" or "the clutch is heavy, heads up".