Oooooooh ffffffffffffuuuuuuuuuu! Subframe bent on curb @#!$%$#@ - Page 2 - Miata Turbo Forum - Boost cars, acquire cats.

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Old 11-26-2009, 04:50 PM   #21
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Lower ball joint, you mean this one?


Somewhere it says:
Quote:
(uprights should also be exchanged to retain improved NB steering geometry).
What are uprights?
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Old 11-26-2009, 05:00 PM   #22
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Interesting!
Quote:
The steering ratios are not the same between the power and manual racks for an NB. They're both faster than the NA equivalent, though.
Turns, lock-to-lock. Rack stroke is the same.
NA manual: 3.36
NA power: 2.80
NB manual: 3.17
NB power: 2.65
And
Quote:
The NA and NB control arms are the same, geometrically speaking. The only difference is the sway bar mounting point. In fact, if you buy an NA replacement control arm you'll get an NB part. The changes in caster came from the control arm mounting point on the subframe, so you'll get them if you install an NB subframe.

The steering arm on the uprights was moved up by 7mm on the NB, IIRC. The rear uprights have 5mm more track per side. The rear subframe is the same other than exhaust and brace mounting points.
Seems I don't need uprights if I just raise the steering rack with spacers?
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Old 11-26-2009, 08:16 PM   #23
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Interesting, I didn't know the NB uprights moved the steering arm. The upright is what attaches the hub to the two control arms, the only upright piece in the suspension. It's all aimed at getting the tie rods to sit as level as possible to get rid of bumpsteer.
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Old 11-27-2009, 01:20 AM   #24
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The subframe is a hell of a lot stronger than the sheet metal bodyshell it bolts to. I sure hope you didn't end up with a tweaked bodyshell. If it was strong enough to bend the subframe like that, it is unfortunately a possibility.

Good luck, brother.
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Old 11-27-2009, 05:44 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sixshooter View Post
The subframe is a hell of a lot stronger than the sheet metal bodyshell it bolts to. I sure hope you didn't end up with a tweaked bodyshell. If it was strong enough to bend the subframe like that, it is unfortunately a possibility.
How do we figure that out?

Quote:
Good luck, brother.
Thanks!

I am having the subframe and steering rack with inner tie-rods and an oil pan coming my way.
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Old 11-27-2009, 06:39 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Oscar View Post
told you that you couldn't drive
j/k, that sucks. Let me know if you need a hand tho
I will probably wrap it up for now and have the cages build. I already ordered some replacement parts. Would welcome a helping hand!
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Old 11-27-2009, 08:51 AM   #27
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Ouch. Goodluck on the repiar... In AmERRIca you could blame the DOT for that, then require them to paint every curb dayglow yellow... Happened locally for me.

In the Volvo Dealership, we have replaced multiple oil pans becasue of the same thing. Could have been worse for you.
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Old 11-27-2009, 11:37 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spookyfish View Post
How do we figure that out?
you'll know when you mate up a new subframe if they dont sit flush probably.
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Old 11-29-2009, 05:01 PM   #29
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Oil cooler is damaged (vanes) but intercooler only had bent mounting tabs.
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Old 11-30-2009, 01:39 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by y8s View Post
you'll know when you mate up a new subframe if they dont sit flush probably.
as well, they might be able to figure some of it out when aligning the car.

A good idea hear since the car was tweaked would be to go to a good body shop for your alignment, so that you have experienced/competent people who can look at it and tell you whats what.
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Old 12-04-2009, 04:28 PM   #31
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So, starting work on replacing the subframe and steering rack.
Is this how I should fix the engine while I remove the lower parts?

Serious question.
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Old 12-04-2009, 06:11 PM   #32
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Wow.
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Old 12-04-2009, 06:30 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spookyfish View Post
So, starting work on replacing the subframe and steering rack.
Is this how I should fix the engine while I remove the lower parts?

Serious question.
is it supported by the fenders?
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Old 12-04-2009, 06:38 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spookyfish View Post
So, starting work on replacing the subframe and steering rack.
Is this how I should fix the engine while I remove the lower parts?

Serious question.
It it's on the seam for the fenders, then no. It'll just curl.
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Old 12-04-2009, 06:38 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sixshooter View Post
Wow.
Wow whut?

Yes - on the fender rails, thats how it's supposed to be used.
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Old 12-04-2009, 07:19 PM   #36
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if that's how it is supposed to be, go for it
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Old 12-05-2009, 06:06 AM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dustinb View Post
It it's on the seam for the fenders, then no. It'll just curl.
You know so or you think so?
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Old 12-05-2009, 10:59 AM   #38
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That engine steady is perfectly fine the way it is... we use that method all the time for Volvo repairs. (subframes , oil pans , power steering rack replace etc) Typically we have two... but that one should suffice...

The fender is bolted to the inner fender... which is the structual part of the front end.

Your good to go...
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Old 12-05-2009, 11:49 AM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jedduh01 View Post
That engine steady is perfectly fine the way it is... we use that method all the time for Volvo repairs. (subframes , oil pans , power steering rack replace etc) Typically we have two... but that one should suffice...

The fender is bolted to the inner fender... which is the structual part of the front end.

Your good to go...
Thanks
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Old 12-05-2009, 05:33 PM   #40
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