I just never considered dropping the subframe without the engine. I'd always seen them pulled as a unit. I would have thought the framerails would have been sturdier than the fender mounts for doing it that way, but if it works, it works. I would have probably just used an engine hoist to support the weight of the engine if I were pulling just the subframe, but I dont have one of those fancy support bridges like you are using.

I hope it works out well for you. It's tough luck that you have to do it at all.

Hammering it out is the method.

Update: old frame is OUT!

Not too bad at all:

1) engine on hoist, lifted slightly.
2) loosening several suspension points, roll bar i.e.
3) 4 nuts and 4 bolts (8 total) hold the sub frame to the car
4) swear while getting the steering U-joint loose from the rack
5) work the 15yr old frame loose from the car
6) profit

Lots of room under the car now, going to do several small jobs while I'm at it, such as fixinig the oil return gasket from the turbo.

Assembly of new subframe:

- old A-arms on new NB frame
- new NB steering rack, depowering by looping lines

The U-joint is also different, good thing the track came with it. Missing some bolts though.

Notice my slightly bend upper left A-arm, but Im leaving it. It doesnt go anywhere as the bushing inner sleeve is keeping things in place.

Maybe I ought to have mentioned this before, but do you see a lot of spot welds or incomplete welds on the NB or NA subframe? I've always been curious if it would be worth while to seam weld the subframe to gain extra stiffness. I know that doing so to the center brace on the 03+ cars helps a slight bit, just curious. I'm always interested in free and simple improvments.

I've also considered boxing the control arms slightly, as there is room to do that, as well, significantly helping..

Sorry for the thread jack, Looks like everythings coming along well. Hooray for new suspension mounting points.

Uhm, Im getting a full cage welded in. How much more stiffness would I need? I cant be bothered.

Oh, and I'm already in love with the 2.65 steering ratio.
(My Alfa Romeo 159 has 2.25, go figure!)

I hear you there. I'm also selfish, I was more thinking of myself than you, as not everyone's got a full cage :drool: I was just kinda askin since you have/had all the parts in front of you.

kinda more directed at the crowd whom does seam welding of the door seams, adds frame rails, door bars, etc.

Full cage probably helps a bit, I'd guess:giggle:

Pulling you sub frame is not really economical, but Ill take a look in day light on the welds on both the NA and NB frame.

I did notice the NB one is heavier (by hand).

Thanks. I understand your point, but it won't do much driving over the winter. I may also remove the engine for various... things. But, thanks for checking.

Oh, I am replacing my dented oil cooler. What size should I do with?

I now have this: Mocal 235mm/9.2" wide, 25 rows (194mm/7.6").

Capacity: 0,50l
Weight: 1,60kg

more important than the size is how you're going to get air to it and away from it. A fella with an MSM designed an ingenious little setup of louvers that pulls air away from the oil cooler and throws it out the bottom of the car, so it can feed itself from the front.

I've always used OE volvo oil coolers on my projects.. no joke. They come with a nice scoop to boot... from the 20vc 5cyl turbos.

Oil temps are not really an issue on track currently, but I think I'll settle for the 34 row instead of 25 row this time, only modest price setup.

34 rows gives 0.7l of oil extra.

is the addage "no replacement for displacement" proper, in this case, then :-)

I suppose it can't hurt. I highly doubt its possible to over-cool your oil, in any case, so why not, if you're fine with the price difference.

Small jobs done:
- oil return gasket replaced after cleaning surfaces
- sway bar shimmed, cleaned and lubed up. No more binding

Uhm, why is there a drop of oil on exactly one of the lower intake manifold studs/nuts?
Basically completely refurbished head (hot tank, new gaskets, etc.)

New subframe coming together. You can see how I looped the lines of the power steering.

Subframe into position - one man job!

Several notes for future reference:
* The subframe is near perfectly balanced under the main cross member so you can balance it on a rolling jack
* What other said is true: the driver side engien mount bolt is a total bitch. You want to focus on that one before any other hole engages. I played with the engine jack (lowering, raising) a crow bar and a jack under the sub frame to force it all into position.
* After the driver side engine mount is engaged the rest will follow quite easily

I didn't tighten anything yet, that's for another day.

New 34 row oil cooler came in.