Optimal ride height?

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Nov 11, 2010 | 10:32 PM
  #1  
What is the optimal front ride height for different springs. I'm assuming 1/4 to 1/2 inch rake is optimal.

450#
550#
700#
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Nov 12, 2010 | 07:49 AM
  #2  
You lost me, what?
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Nov 12, 2010 | 10:00 AM
  #3  
Typo-I meant rake
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Nov 12, 2010 | 10:21 AM
  #4  
4" front, 4.25" rear

/thread
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Nov 12, 2010 | 02:14 PM
  #5  
4" up front? That's pretty low! Mine is at 4 1/8" F and 4 6/16" (4.375") in the R and looks like this with 10kg/mm front spring rates (560 lbs/in)
(I'm actually thinking of raising the front a little...)

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Nov 12, 2010 | 02:25 PM
  #6  
As low as possible without bottoming the suspension or screwing up geometry, so basically 4" with rake to taste.
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Nov 12, 2010 | 04:21 PM
  #7  
Quote: As low as possible without bottoming the suspension or screwing up geometry, so basically 4" with rake to taste.
Ok, that's probably perfect for heavy spring rates of 750# + but as the rates soften the ride height probably needs to increase to compensate or else you end up riding around on the bumpstops a lot. Now for a track only car minimal travel and engaging the bumpstops sooner might be the fastest way around the track
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Nov 12, 2010 | 06:00 PM
  #8  
Or whatever height leaves the front tie rod ends flat to the ground at static rest and tune for driving conditions by springrate or bumpstop variations
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Nov 12, 2010 | 06:32 PM
  #9  
Quote: Or whatever height leaves the front tie rod ends flat to the ground at static rest and tune for driving conditions by springrate or bumpstop variations
Are you tracking the car?
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Nov 12, 2010 | 07:46 PM
  #10  
No, I'm just throwing this out there for discussion purposes. My ride height is about 13 inches.
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Nov 13, 2010 | 09:27 AM
  #11  
Depends what you classify as best? Best in my book would be grip (contact patch loading), and you have to work with what you're given. You'd need to find the best place for the RC and migration, which determines whether the load transfer is elastic (springs/sways/dampers) or geometric (suspension arms, chassis).

Low will make it feel like a go cart, but control is king. IMO.

Phil
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Nov 15, 2010 | 07:14 PM
  #12  
Quote: You'd need to find the best place for the RC and migration, which determines whether the load transfer is elastic (springs/sways/dampers) or geometric (suspension arms, chassis).

Low will make it feel like a go cart, but control is king. IMO.

Phil
Doesn't the elastic part usually try to minimize geometric issues? (stiffer to reduce mvmt along suspension curve?)

Also, how would you determine these elastic and geometric issues by "feel"? Or is that possible?
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Nov 15, 2010 | 11:11 PM
  #13  
Quote: Or whatever height leaves the front tie rod ends flat to the ground at static rest and tune for driving conditions by springrate or bumpstop variations
93LE tie rods.
Edit: I think
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Nov 16, 2010 | 05:02 AM
  #14  
Quote: Doesn't the elastic part usually try to minimize geometric issues? (stiffer to reduce mvmt along suspension curve?)

Also, how would you determine these elastic and geometric issues by "feel"? Or is that possible?
Springs and sways will provide a resistance to roll, but that's different to weight transfer. Unless you can re-write the laws of physics, it doesn't matter how stiff the springs/sways are, weight transfer is going to happen, you just don't see all the effect of it with big springs.

That's a lot more difficult. I'd say you need a lot of ride and handling training and experience. Datalogging traces will work as well.

Phil
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Nov 27, 2010 | 07:51 AM
  #15  
This is 4" at the pinch welds, correct? I'd heard frame rails from some and pinch welds from others, making sure.
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Nov 30, 2010 | 03:42 AM
  #16  
Quote: This is 4" at the pinch welds, correct? I'd heard frame rails from some and pinch welds from others, making sure.
I've always measured from the side jacking points that extend out a little more than the entire side pinch welds. Frame rails are closer to ground, no? Savington's looks higher than mine so maybe he measured from the frame rail?

OP: Are you trying to find a height for specific spring rates or trying to keep the tie rod arms parallel? FWIW at my current height, I like the height and wish I didn't have to raise it, but I will since I need more clearance. I don't even pay attention to the angle of the arms.
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Nov 30, 2010 | 04:19 AM
  #17  
Quote: I've always measured from the side jacking points that extend out a little more than the entire side pinch welds. Frame rails are closer to ground, no? Savington's looks higher than mine so maybe he measured from the frame rail?

OP: Are you trying to find a height for specific spring rates or trying to keep the tie rod arms parallel? FWIW at my current height, I like the height and wish I didn't have to raise it, but I will since I need more clearance. I don't even pay attention to the angle of the arms.
Finding ride height for 700/400 springs and RB hollow front sway, MSM rear. I know it's 4", I'm just not sure from where.
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Nov 30, 2010 | 04:36 AM
  #18  
Well since it seems your're looking for Sav's height...

FWIW, I copied 949's 4.1F 4.4R PINCH WELD height but will be raising it for clearance-- under a splitter, not under the fenderwell.
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Nov 30, 2010 | 04:39 AM
  #19  
Quote: Well since it seems your're looking for Sav's height...

FWIW, I copied 949's 4.1F 4.4R PINCH WELD height but will be raising it for clearance-- under a splitter, not under the fenderwell.
Awesome, thanks.
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Nov 30, 2010 | 07:18 AM
  #20  
Quote: What is the optimal front ride height for different springs.
the height should be set so you can draw a horizontal line. From the center of the lower control arm bushing and the lower ball joint.
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