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Old 01-05-2010, 09:00 PM   #1
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Default Power Bleeder

Well I ordered new rotors and pads for my 02 along with new SS lines and brake fluid. Well after reading how much it sucks to bleed brakes on a miata with ABS and being the first time I ever done anything with brakes on a car I was thinking about getting the power bleeder for the miata.

http://store.motiveproducts.com/shar...unt2=280662178

They also have a adapter to do the clutch which I plan on doing as well. So the question what is your take on the power bleeder. Does anybody have hands on with the miata kit.
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Old 01-05-2010, 09:22 PM   #2
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I've used the power bleeders on several cars, and I would say about half the time it was useful, the other half it was just a huge mess. Most of the time the pressure cap didn't fit 100% flat, so it ended up spraying brake fluid everywhere. Honestly the best thing I've ever used are speed bleeders.
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Old 01-05-2010, 09:24 PM   #3
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I've used it for years and think it works great. For me the key has been to keep the pressure under 10PSI to prevent leaks. As long as I do that it works grat and is mess free.
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Old 01-05-2010, 10:51 PM   #4
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The problem I have with that product is it pressurizes air directly in contact with brake fluid, which causes the air to go into solution in the fluid. Pedal can be rock hard when cold, but as soon as you hit the track, it gets really spongy. Bleed it, and no air comes out. Keep bleeding it, and nothing gets better. Flush the whole system using fresh fluid and doing it the old fashioned way, problem solved. Happy brakes.
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Old 01-06-2010, 03:54 AM   #5
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HARBOR FREIGHT. Way cheaper. Good quality believe it or not.
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Old 01-06-2010, 07:42 AM   #6
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Thanks for all the info guys. At this point I am leaning more towards buying it.
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Old 01-06-2010, 08:42 AM   #7
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I have it works great, fluid just fine track days also with 0 sponginess hot or cold. Never heard of air actually 'forcing' itself into brake fluid.

FYI the easiest way is to not actually put any fluid into the bleeder itself. Fill the brake fluid reservoir in the car, pressurize, bleed, refill...doing that takes less time in the long run since cleaning the bleeder is a bitch.
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Old 01-06-2010, 09:22 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mann View Post
I have it works great, fluid just fine track days also with 0 sponginess hot or cold. Never heard of air actually 'forcing' itself into brake fluid.

FYI the easiest way is to not actually put any fluid into the bleeder itself. Fill the brake fluid reservoir in the car, pressurize, bleed, refill...doing that takes less time in the long run since cleaning the bleeder is a bitch.
Thanks man I was reading something like that on a old post I found on m.net I think I will give this a try. I cant wait to see how my *** messes this up.
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Old 01-06-2010, 09:37 AM   #9
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Well I just found this and it seems pretty helpful. Thought I post it for the next noob that comes along. Thats if he searches

How to bleed your brakes using a Power Bleeder - E46Fanatics

http://m3.madrussian.net/diy_brake_bleed.shtml

Last edited by 02semiata; 01-06-2010 at 10:27 AM.
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Old 01-06-2010, 09:42 AM   #10
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I find it better to call a friend over to help you. This way beers can be shared, general talk about winning the lottery and ******* bitches and you don't look like that creepy guy who is always working on his car by himself the night before racewars.

Rmemeber to start at the pax rear -> driver rear -> pax front -> driver front

What fluid are you going to use?


BTW- I once heard that Hustler is a power bleeder as well as a power bottom

Last edited by Doppelgänger; 01-06-2010 at 09:53 AM.
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Old 01-06-2010, 10:01 AM   #11
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I've used a MightVac for 15 years. A vacuum pump is good diagnostic tool to have IMO.
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Old 01-06-2010, 10:08 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Doppelgänger View Post
I find it better to call a friend over to help you. This way beers can be shared, general talk about winning the lottery and ******* bitches and you don't look like that creepy guy who is always working on his car by himself the night before racewars.

Rmemeber to start at the pax rear -> driver rear -> pax front -> driver front

What fluid are you going to use?


BTW- I once heard that Hustler is a power bleeder as well as a power bottom
Yeah that would be good if I had friends that were into cars. My one buddy that is is going on vacation for 2 months lol. I was thinking about posting here to see if anybody lived in long island. As for the fluid I got two bottles of Motul RBF600. I plan to flush the clutch and brakes.
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Old 01-06-2010, 04:23 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turotufas View Post
HARBOR FREIGHT. Way cheaper. Good quality believe it or not.
link please!
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Old 01-06-2010, 04:31 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m2cupcar View Post
I've used a MightVac for 15 years. A vacuum pump is good diagnostic tool to have IMO.
Ditto, works like a champ for me.
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Old 01-06-2010, 04:54 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Doppelgänger View Post

Rmemeber to start at the pax rear -> driver rear -> pax front -> driver front
It's driver's rear first, then passenger rear. It doesn't matter which front line you do first.
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Old 01-06-2010, 05:27 PM   #16
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What's the logic there? I've only always known to start at the furthest point from the MC.
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Old 01-06-2010, 06:06 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 02semiata View Post
Yeah that would be good if I had friends that were into cars. My one buddy that is is going on vacation for 2 months lol. I was thinking about posting here to see if anybody lived in long island. As for the fluid I got two bottles of Motul RBF600. I plan to flush the clutch and brakes.
Ronkonkoma here! I've got the Motive bleeder, and just bought the Miata mc adapter. My Miata is on jackstands in the garage, but I can move it and make room. Shoot me a PM if you want to come by.

C
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Old 01-06-2010, 06:41 PM   #18
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Bleeding ABS does suck horribly. I have wasted many quarts of brake fluid trying spazztically to purge my system. **** you, you stupid **** ABS unit.

Bleeding the clutch is really easy. It's just a line from the resivour to the slave. Even if you still have some teeny tiny bubbles your clutch will still function well. Remove the curly q thing-- samnavy did a write up.
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Old 01-06-2010, 10:43 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Doppelgänger View Post
What's the logic there? I've only always known to start at the furthest point from the MC.
You want to do the longest line first to get the most bubbles, and then quickly do the others to get any bubbles trapped in the shorter lines along the way. The Miata runs the rear brake line down the passenger side to the passenger rear corner, then across to the driver's rear - the driver's side is "further" from the MC than the passenger side is. The fronts don't matter because they are each on their own individual line from the master cylinder - they don't share any fluid (except at the MC, and if you have bubbles in your MC no amount of caliper bleeding will help you).
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Old 01-06-2010, 10:56 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by faeflora View Post
link please!
I don't have a link. I used to work there. They had like 5 different brake bleeders. They should still have them.
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