Im going to make a diff brace that picks up on the stock ladder brace bolts (think kmiata ppf delete)

Going to be made from steel square tubing

Option 1: square tube from side to side, drill a hole in ppf, and through bolt ppf to square tubing.
Red dot represents bolt/nut


Option 2: square tube from side to side, weld on another square tube that picks up on stock ppf long bolts. Picture a "T" shape. Using the 2 stock ppf/diff bolts

 

https://www.good-win-racing.com/Mazd...t/61-2402.html

They make one for NB2 as well:

https://www.good-win-racing.com/Mazd...RoCNJoQAvD_BwE

Two reasons to just get that instead:
-No fab work or drilling into the PPF
-Triangles

Bear in mind any solution that braces the PPF to the subframe without bushings will induce NVH and gear whine.

 

Yes I've seen that but i want something more solid. I want to use the ladder brace bolts closer to the diff so the diff doesn't have as much leverage on the brace to move up/down

 

The diff is more likely to twist axially than move up and down, plus that brace spreads the load further reducing stress on the brace itself. They designed it that way for a reason.

 

Im trying to solve wheel hop. Diff moving "axially" isnt causing my wheel hop.

Guess i shouldve made my title a little more clear:
"I want your opinion on going with either my option 1 or 2"

 

You really would be saving time, that brace is literally made to prevent wheel hop. Says it right in the product description and there are multiple reviews that say the same.
If you want to fab something up, by all means go ahead, you can lead a horse to water but can't make it drink.

Your current design will actually be weaker. It will flex under load due to the minimal amount of attachment points. If there's anything I would suggest it's design #2 but at least with gussets reinforcing the "T". The PPF is already flexible enough as it is, no need to make it have more holes.

 

I like your idea OP, but the linked product from GWR will be better in every way, with the exception of it weighing more.

 

Your wrong, axial movement, or movement of any kind for that matter, will contribute to wheel hop.

You're request to agree with you, makes you sound like a bonehead.

 

Bruh.

 

whats you're issue with his comment.

 

I pretty sure it was the "your wrong" instead of "you're wrong".

 

fixed for everyone

 

I'm starting to like this forum a lot more now XD

 

Bruh.....

 

option 1.

 

Mush betterer now. Lol.

 

3/16" wall 1x2" tubing

 

So: feel any improvement after install?

 

First thoughts: 3000% increase in nvh.
Performance wise not sure- Taking it to test and tune next Saturday so we'll see if wheel hop is reduced.

 

So was wheel hop reduced?